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Trekkor |
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I do things... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Sure, this is a re-run.
I ran the track and got brake fade 3/4 of way into each session. I just want to upgrade the pads and fluid right now. What do you recommend/are using. Wear is not a factor. I want the best stopping power for the stock FOUR calipers/rotors. Do I need to replace the M/C with a bigger unit and what are your feelings on the prop valve vs "tee" arguement. Also considering the SS brake lines. Thanks and thanks to Mark for helping with the brake bleeding on track day. KT Attached image(s) ![]() |
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Dave_Darling |
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914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,200 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
I would recommend the Porterfield street compound brake pads, not the Porterfield race compound. The race ones, while being fantastic at "working" temperatures, are rather sub-par when dead-cold. That's the first corner on the track (no BFD), or pretty much every single corner you take on the street (very BFD!).
ATE Super Blue, ATE Gold, Ford Heavy Duty are all very good street brake fluids. Motul is probably better, Vegas Racer's experience notwithstanding. I know more people who have had fewer problems with the Motul than with the ATE fluids. The SRF is "the shit", to appropriate B's expression. Amazing stuff--and so is the cost!! If you still had a -4, I would suggest an adjustable proportioning valve over a tee. Not sure in your case, because you have significant extra weight in the rear of the car (six-cylinder motor) which gives the rear wheels better grip and lets you send more pressure to them... --DD |
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