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ChicagoChris |
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#1
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It was jack-stand-tastic! ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 168 Joined: 3-November 05 From: Chicago (burbs), IL Member No.: 5,062 ![]() |
Who among us has ever dipped a Teener? My project looks in prett good shape but I am scared of what I would get (or not get) back.
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Twystd1 |
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#2
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You don't want to know... really..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,515 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Newport Beach, California Member No.: 2,743 ![]() |
There are 2 kinds of full car immersion tank stripping that I know of.
And they both can work very well. Just depends on who does it and what equipment they have. 1: Hot tank, This is caustic soda and Hot water. It will remove ALL of the rust where ever it is on the car. Will also remove paint. Will melt most non ferrous metals on cantact. (eats a beer can in one hour or less) After dipping. Metal is dipped in a neutralizing tank. (If they have one) Then sprayed off with a water blaster. Then dipped in a Zinc phosphate tank to stabilize the metal and to keep surface rust to a minimum. (If they have one) The zink floats on the top of the water. When they pull out the chassis. A fine coating is now on the entire chassis. (or you can opt out of that and get it primed FAST) DOWNSIDE IS: Caustic soda might be sitting in every crevice and hidden part of the chassis. As it is dam hard to rinse and neutralize all of it. If it does come back (especially when wet) The paint will peel up wherever it is exposed to the caustic soda. COLD TANK STRIPPING: This is just about like hot tanking. Except they use a Methylene Chloride based stripping solution at room temp. Like what you might get at home depot for paint stripping. Just stronger. They also at times will add MEK to the mix to add strength to the solution. DOWN SIDE: The stripper they use for cold tank stripping also has wax in it. The wax floats on the top of the solution to keep the aromatic solvents from evaporating off. This saves money. And keeps the solution strong for a greater length of time. Now how do you get the wax out of the longs and out of all the little crevices? And why would you? well. the solvents can get stuck under the wax and stay alive for months. especially in the sems if all of the seam sealer has been removed. This can come back to haunt you if you are getting a paint job immediately after a tank strip. I use a pressure washer and REAL TSP (Tr-Sodium Phosphate) Mixed with laundry detergent to remove the wax and all the little crap that is still hanging on the metal. And I spray the hell out of it. I know that chemical stripping is a great way to get the job done. it just needs to be done right. the above information doesn't come from books. It comes from years of my experience doing exactly this kind of work. I don't know much. But I do know if ya get it done. Check out their shop first. And ask em the right questions. Cheers, Clayton |
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