Mars on a budget, 75 914 field-find into cool driver Options

[rick_cv]

Can I ask what you are going to use for engine management (ecu)? I keep seeing that you can't use the EZ30 stock ecu and have to purchase a standalone from private companies which is expensive and may not be fully featured.

[Mayne]

Can I ask what you are going to use for engine management (ecu)? I keep seeing that you can't use the EZ30 stock ecu and have to purchase a standalone from private companies which is expensive and may not be fully featured.

Yes, this is sort of the elephant in the room when it comes to the EZ30R. Before I started ordering parts, and especially the engine, I felt confident that I would be able to use a fairly basic Link ECU. As I continued researching (after having bought the engine) and opening up lines of communications with several ECU companies, I became convinced there is only one truly well-developed ECU for the this engine at this time: Haltech Elite 2500. It is the only ECU I've found that has base start up maps for the 30R and can accommodate the DBW, Variable Cam Timing, Variable Valve Lift, and CanBus conversion that are inherent in the EZ30R.

So, once you're done spitting your last swig of beer all over the room, you try to come to grips with that reality. I pretty much have, and while it will be some time before I can spring for the Haltech and harness materials (seriously planning to build my own harness to understand how it all went together), I actually feel pretty good about it. And if that gets me closer to maximizing the potential of this swap, then I honestly believe it's money well spent compared to the other build/swap alternatives.

To take this just a bit further, I have heard of people successfully getting their 30Rs running in 914s and even Vangons, but I have yet to see any real video of this in action. So, while those JDM sixes with all their high tech look good, do your due diligence before you plunk down your money. Or just hang in there with me for another year or so, and see if I actually get this thing to work. I'm starting to work on a video series on the swap for my brother's YouTube channel, so this won't be the only place it will documented.

Long response here, but I was going to have to address it sooner or later!

[rick_cv]

Awesome, thanks. I have thought about this swap quite a bit and have read many threads but have not seen a definitive answer.

[Front yard mechanic]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[76-914]

I've heard that you can use the factory ECU if you can find a place to stuff the donor car's gage cluster up under your dash. Also heard there is a guy in Australia that is making a work around but that may be for the 3.6. Either way it is supposedly pricey. Check with Jeff on Subaru Powered Porsche's.

[euro911]

Wow, just getting around to seeing your thread, Jeremy. Everything you've been doing looks great (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Mayne]

I've heard that you can use the factory ECU if you can find a place to stuff the donor car's gage cluster up under your dash. Also heard there is a guy in Australia that is making a work around but that may be for the 3.6. Either way it is supposedly pricey. Check with Jeff on Subaru Powered Porsche's.

Yeah, I know people have worked around it, and in fact Outfront Motorsports told me they can adapt a Link ECU and build a plug-and-play harness for around $2500. It would delete the variable cam timing, which according to them is primarily there to help with low RPM torque for the big cars these engines were designed for. Deemed unnecessary in a 914, which is probably true. It's a back-burner option for me if I decide not to go Haltech. Hoping to see Michael at Rennch on YouTube to wire his up in his 911 Blasphemy Build before I commit.

Wow, just getting around to seeing your thread, Jeremy. Everything you've been doing looks great (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Much appreciated, cheers!

[Mayne]

Small update here.

I had to remove the nut from the splined shaft in the transmission to put the spline lock in place. This is necessary to be sure all torque from the rear differential shaft goes to the front drive outputs. These are the bearings and washers.


Only need the washers and the nut to connect the lock:



I had some flange sealant left over from resealing the balance shaft covers on my 944 Turbo, so I thought I'd try some here for the cover.

[Mayne]

I don't know why my photos freak out sometimes!

[Mayne]

I also don't know why my brain freaks out sometimes, so you get duplicate pics for free!

Anyway, time to remove the auto transmission plate to make way for the flywheel. I had heard the bolts were difficult to remove without damaging, and indeed I only got three of eight out. Thanks to a recommendation by rmarx here on the forum, I was able to weld large nuts on to the bolts and use a socket.


I had to order new flywheel bolts obviously, but even if I hadn't destroyed them, they are too short to make it through the flywheel thickness. No more torx bolts!


Run-of-the mill HD clutch in place.


Big moment, engine mated to transmission and on the cradle. This is just in preparation for test fitting to measure out coolant lines and shift cables, but it feels great to see it at this point.

[Cairo94507]

Congratulations, that is a milestone. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Front yard mechanic]

That transmission cleaned up real nice ! This is going to be a nice one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Mayne]

Congratulations, that is a milestone. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Thanks! One of many ahead of me, but I’ll keep pedaling.

That transmission cleaned up real nice ! This is going to be a nice one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Yeah, I’m pretty happy with how it looks. It’s a big unknown in terms of condition but the little bit I’ve seen of the internals seem very promising.

[Mayne]

Okay, let me see, where are we? Oh yeah, I'm doing a Subaru 6 swap on my car! Progress has been slow this Fall and Winter.

I teach classical guitar full time at a college-prep school, but I've been getting back into performing professionally and I got a bit more work than I had planned for this Fall. For the understandably few who might wonder what that means: early October: US premier of a newly-written guitar concerto (solo guitar and orchestra), late October: world premier of a newly-written opera featuring guitar throughout, early December: performances of Rodrigo's Concierto de Aranjuez. So, teach, practice, rinse and repeat.

Anyway, the hobby must continue for my sanity. As previously shown, the engine and transmission could be installed now, but I'm working on the engine bay, including hell hole repairs. I want to get this wrapped up and in primer before I put the drivetrain in for the first time.

After removing fiberglass installed by a PO:



First cuts reveal more mouse nests. I would say a rodent infestation is a lot like rust; worse than you think:


More trimming and cleanup work. Not pictured is a small metal patch I did on the bottom of the rocker, and then rust treated and POR-15 coated the inside of the long:


Most of the work was actually happening last summer, and here's a pic of what happens when your angle grinder with a cutoff wheel gets ripped out of your hands and bounces off your forearm (added here to remind me, and you, to be the F*** careful). I was wearing leather gloves and it hit right above the glove. Now I wear longer welding gloves when grinding and cutting.

Went to Urgent Care and the female Russian doctor looked at it and said "Ah, it is just superficial!". Glad to hear, but not sure I felt that way. Superglue and Steristrips and now it looks like a smudge under my hairy arm.

Also got my DBW pedal board from JWK Engineering:



And, my brother and I made a project introduction video on his YouTube channel:
Retromod Youtube

[Front yard mechanic]

Ow

[Mayne]

Latest update is that the engine bay rust repair and general preparation for primer is taking quite a bit of time. But I'm determined to get it prepped pretty well and primered before I put the engine in for the first time.

The rust repair in and around the hell hole has taken the most time, but ironically it's the undercoating that I sprayed into the engine bay shortly after getting the car that is slowing me down now. It has to be scraped off a bit at a time and it's just about taking forever. People complain about what the PO (previous owner) has done, but what about fixing the wrongs of the CO (current owner)? Anyway, a few pics:

Most of what I cut out:


Where it's currently at. Still more welding to go, then POR-15 the welds, then seam sealer, then primer:


The latest part to arrive is my Zero Decibel Motorsports bell crank for the cable shift to the Subaru transmission. Very nice looking piece:




More to come...

[76-914]

Most of us are that PO at one time or another. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I was that PO when I fiberglassed that battery area and ended up doing the proper metal repairs 14 years later! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) It's coming along nicely Jeremy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[76-914]

I forgot to add this; you may already have this update. https://www.agtengineering.com.au/product-p...Ejr4GulBgKcm7Ss

[914rrr]

Thanks for including us on your resto journey! I'm likely going to be doing a lot of similar repairs to my 74 2.0.

Q: did you use stock aluminum windshield trim for the windshield or a rubber seal? I had a 914 awhile ago that had a rubber windshield seal and I never did figure out how it was done. I'll be replacing my cracked windshield and (hopefully) re-installing the aluminum trim, if I don't completely mangle it during removal. BTW, If anybody has any tips on how to successfully remove windshield trim, I'd appreciate it.

Regarding the flux core MIG: IIRC, I was told that flux core wire may have baked in impurities that may eventually pop out like a rust bubble later on on finished body panels. If anyone else can enlighten and/or correct me if I'm wrong, I'd appreciate it, as I'm getting ready to buy a MIG welder and want to ensure I'm getting the right type.

[76-914]

Thanks for including us on your resto journey! I'm likely going to be doing a lot of similar repairs to my 74 2.0.

Q: did you use stock aluminum windshield trim for the windshield or a rubber seal? I had a 914 awhile ago that had a rubber windshield seal and I never did figure out how it was done. I'll be replacing my cracked windshield and (hopefully) re-installing the aluminum trim, if I don't completely mangle it during removal. BTW, If anybody has any tips on how to successfully remove windshield trim, I'd appreciate it.

Regarding the flux core MIG: IIRC, I was told that flux core wire may have baked in impurities that may eventually pop out like a rust bubble later on on finished body panels. If anyone else can enlighten and/or correct me if I'm wrong, I'd appreciate it, as I'm getting ready to buy a MIG welder and want to ensure I'm getting the right type.

MIG is correct but requires a little hammer/dolly work. TIG is better as less heat=less shrinkage. TIG units are more expensive and complex. MIG is easily learned. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)