Bee Jay's 914-six Conversion, The car just burned down! Options

[Bee Jay]

One of my favorite lines from a Dirty Harry movie is "Hey man, I got's to know". I had the 914 on the lift installing engine and tranny mounts and a few odds and ends getting ready for the engine. I just had to know how the engine was going to fit. So I roll the engine dolly under the car and start lowering it. The tranny lined up with the tranny mounts just beautifully, but I coudn't get the engine close to the motor mounts because the trailing arm bolts were impacting the side engine tin. I only need about 1/4" more clearance on each side. I didn't want to crack my fiberglass engine tin so I didn't force it. I guess when I'm ready to install the engine for real, I'll need to remove the trailing arm bolt nuts and push in the bolt a little either on each side or just one side. That won't be for a while. I need to get my lower valve covers back from being machined, and I would really love to find carbs before installing the engine.
Bee Jay

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1300683228.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1300683228.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1300683229.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1300683229.4.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1300683230.5.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1300683230.6.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1300683231.7.jpg)

[moparrob]

Bee Jay,

Have you checked Pelican for carbs? There is a set for sale right now:

Weber 40's

Rob

[davesprinkle]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1300683228.1.jpg)

I think it's awesome that you have TWO port-a-potties.

[Ericv1]

This is just an observation, but you are going to have to cut off that blower mount on the drivers side engine shelf before you can put your oil filter on. Otherwise, you won't be able to screw it on.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1299562609.3.jpg)

[patssle]

Why did you plug your oil temp and pressure senders? Don't you want to be able to monitor those?

Also why buy a new flywheel? Can't you use the one off the 3.0 with an adapter plate and ring gear?

I'm doing the same conversion (3.0 to 901) and that's what I was told.

Looking great! Nice to watch somebody chronicle their conversion before I do mine!

[moparrob]

I just got off the phone with the folks at Kennedy Engineering, since I am at that stage as well.

You have two options:

1) Keep the stock 228mm flywheel (which they call 9 inch) and buy their ring gear part number 9-915. These are $170.

or

2) buy a new one-piece flywheel from them (with proper ring gear machined into flywheel) made of 1045 steel. Price $300.

Either way you will need a pressure plate, clutch disc and throw out bearing. That costs an additional $356 (for their stage 2 package).

The benefit to the one piece, new flywheel is that you can run a stock 215 mm disc and plate (lower cost, available at any parts store). You can still run the larger 228mm parts with the new flywheel also.

With the ring gear option you are required to use their 9 inch clutch which is more expensive than a stock 215 clutch and must be purchased thropugh them.

The advantage to the larger size (228) aside from the obvious size increase is that they offer up to a stage 4 for that plate, capable of over 600 ft. lbs. of torque, if you are so motivated.

They recommend that you re-surface you old flywheel if you are going to run only the ring gear, and I do not know what that procedure costs from a reputable machine shop. I'd venture the cost is pretty similar between using the ring gear and machining your old flywheel versus buying the new flywheel and avoiding the machining costs.

Ring gear plus clutch =$526

New flywheel plus clutch = $656


The only other benefit I can think of if you use your old flywheel is that you could have it lightened - if that is actually a benefit.


But then again, if you buy a new flywheel you could probably sell your stock one for around $100.00

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[BKLA]

I installed the engine side sheet metal AFTER installing the motor. Cleared the suspension no problem, and I didnt worry about banging them up

(I also cut out the -4 mounts and patched the longs where the mounts were removed.) that helped with install as well.

[Bee Jay]

I just got off the phone with the folks at Kennedy Engineering, since I am at that stage as well.

You have two options:

1) Keep the stock 228mm flywheel (which they call 9 inch) and buy their ring gear part number 9-915. These are $170.

or

2) buy a new one-piece flywheel from them (with proper ring gear machined into flywheel) made of 1045 steel. Price $300.

Either way you will need a pressure plate, clutch disc and throw out bearing. That costs an additional $356 (for their stage 2 package).

The benefit to the one piece, new flywheel is that you can run a stock 215 mm disc and plate (lower cost, available at any parts store). You can still run the larger 228mm parts with the new flywheel also.

With the ring gear option you are required to use their 9 inch clutch which is more expensive than a stock 215 clutch and must be purchased thropugh them.

The advantage to the larger size (228) aside from the obvious size increase is that they offer up to a stage 4 for that plate, capable of over 600 ft. lbs. of torque, if you are so motivated.

They recommend that you re-surface you old flywheel if you are going to run only the ring gear, and I do not know what that procedure costs from a reputable machine shop. I'd venture the cost is pretty similar between using the ring gear and machining your old flywheel versus buying the new flywheel and avoiding the machining costs.

Ring gear plus clutch =$526

New flywheel plus clutch = $656


The only other benefit I can think of if you use your old flywheel is that you could have it lightened - if that is actually a benefit.


But then again, if you buy a new flywheel you could probably sell your stock one for around $100.00

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I sent my 2.0 four lightened flywheel to Kennedy to be modified for my 3.0. After inspecting it, they determined it was junk, so I bought a new 3.0 to 901 flywheel from them. I already had a good clutch and throwout bearing from the 2.0 and the new flywheel they made up will allow me to use my low milaege clutch.
Bee Jay

[patssle]

Nice info, thanks!

Can you also comment on my other question please (in case you missed it with the flywheel talk):

Why did you plug your oil temp and pressure senders? Don't you want to be able to monitor those?

[moparrob]

That is not what was plugged. The plugs were to cover openings left by unused sensors from the now-defunct CIS injection system. Gotta love those $2.00 Napa plugs.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[patssle]

On the 4th page, he posted pictures of the sensors and 9146986 replied with:

You can pull and plug the senders on the chain covers. The canister type sender on the front is oil pressure, the nearest sender to that is oil temp, and the one on the case next to the case breather is oil pressure sender for warning light. The senders on the breather can be pulled and plugged.

Are those just for the CIS? Where are the real oil temp/pressure sensors? Or are there none?

[moparrob]

Are those just for the CIS? Where are the real oil temp/pressure sensors? Or are there none?

Your question is rhetorical. If you analyze the quote, you will see:

You can pull and plug the senders on the chain covers. The canister type sender on the front is oil pressure, the nearest sender to that is oil temp, and the one on the case next to the case breather is oil pressure sender for warning light. The senders on the breather can be pulled and plugged.

Those ARE the senders.

[patssle]

So then there are 6 senders?

You can pull and plug the senders on the chain covers (1+2). The canister type sender on the front is oil pressure (3), the nearest sender to that is oil temp (4), and the one on the case next to the case breather is oil pressure sender (5) for warning light. The senders on the breather can be pulled and plugged. (6)

[moparrob]

So then there are 6 senders?

You can pull and plug the senders on the chain covers (1+2). The canister type sender on the front is oil pressure (3), the nearest sender to that is oil temp (4), and the one on the case next to the case breather is oil pressure sender (5) for warning light. The senders on the breather can be pulled and plugged. (6)

My '79 only had the first 5 senders mentioned above. I don't have one on the breather, only the oil pressure light sender next to it.

[patssle]

Ok. I was confused by having redundant sensors, but I guess it makes sense if they talk a different language to the gauges or CIS.

Do you have a product # on the NAPA plugs? (sorry if I missed it)

And sorry for semi-hijacking the thread!

[moparrob]

I bought three of these from NAPA. Oil Drain Plug part # 704-1379. $2.00 each, comes with crush washers.

[Bee Jay]

I'm waiting to find carbs, manifolds, linkage, etc. before installing the engine inside the engine bay. So I kept busy cleaning the engine compartment and mounting my CS style door pulls. Here is a before picture:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1301807024.1.jpg)
And here is the after picture:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1301807025.2.jpg)
I won't have to yank the window cranks to close the door anymore.
Bee Jay

[Bee Jay]

I worked on the 914 some more today. Still waiting on carbs, so I did more non-conversion work. I installed the AA European Tail Light lens. The left lens did not fit so hot so I broke it forcing it. AA prolly won't replace it since I broke it installing it. Oh well, it's mounted. The new lens are very transparent from the side. You could not see the bulbs from the side with the originals.
Bee Jay
Before:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1301894362.1.jpg)
After:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1301894161.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1301894162.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1301894163.3.jpg)

[Bee Jay]

I got the exhaust side valve covers back tonight. Not as much metal taken off as I expected, but I guess enough.
Bee Jay
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1302065096.1.jpg)

[campbellcj]

The new lens are very transparent from the side. You could not see the bulbs from the side with the originals.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1301894163.3.jpg)

Looking good! IIRC there is a separate little reflector piece inside the stock housings that covers the bulb from the side, so you can't see it like that. Or am I confusing it with the 911 tail lamp?