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> Bee Jay's 914-six Conversion, The car just burned down!
Bee Jay
post Jun 28 2011, 08:20 AM
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QUOTE(rfuerst911sc @ Jun 28 2011, 02:54 AM) *

Add some large stainless steel clamps to that muffler so all the weight isn't hanging off the two bolts on the muffler bracket. You'll possibly tear out the welds on the inlet pipes.

OK, Thanks. That makes sense. What do the clamps wrap around other than the muffler? The heat shield? Got any pictures?
Thanks again. This forum rocks.
Bee Jay
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rfuerst911sc
post Jun 28 2011, 04:01 PM
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QUOTE(Bee Jay @ Jun 28 2011, 06:20 AM) *

QUOTE(rfuerst911sc @ Jun 28 2011, 02:54 AM) *

Add some large stainless steel clamps to that muffler so all the weight isn't hanging off the two bolts on the muffler bracket. You'll possibly tear out the welds on the inlet pipes.

OK, Thanks. That makes sense. What do the clamps wrap around other than the muffler? The heat shield? Got any pictures?
Thanks again. This forum rocks.
Bee Jay


I don't have a picture but hopefully I can explain. Look at the back of your muffler the side facing the engine/muffler bracket. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from the muffler can to the muffler bracket. Bend up some metal so you can weld it to the muffler bracket to make up the gap. Basically a short " U " if that makes sense. On the muffler side of this bracket I just took some fiberglass insulation and glued it with spray adhesive. It only has to hold until the muffler is in place. Now you have something for the clamps to hold onto. Hope this makes sense.
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campbellcj
post Jun 28 2011, 06:52 PM
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I don't think the factory sixes, or most conversions for that matter, use 911-style band clamps but there is a lot of stress on the muffler inlet pipes when supporting the entire weight of the muffler.

My M&K muffler, around 1/2 the weight of a stock banana, ripped at those welds and had to be repaired and braced. Having a better support possibly would have prevented that. I believe Ben has started bracing them now in his later versions (I have an early 911R 2in/2out version.)

Nowadays I run megaphones and the regular bracket seems totally adequate to support those.
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patssle
post Jun 28 2011, 07:41 PM
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Great tips! Glad Beejay is doing this thread and is ahead of me, I get to see everything I'm going to do before I do it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Just put my carbs on this evening with the 3.0L engine still in the 911. Gotta put the fan back on, get some fuel hose, and it'll be about ready to fire up! Your carb pics were of great help.
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Bee Jay
post Jul 5 2011, 10:43 PM
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It was a very nice 4th of July weekend. The weather was great, I had three days off, and Sylvia was out of town. So I spent most of the weekend wrenching, not solely on the Porsche, but mostly.
I filled the tranny with 2.5 quarts of synthetic gear oil. I adel clamped the oil lines to make sure they never wandered close to the header pipes. I installed a new fuel filter and ran hose to a pressure gauge and to the Webbers. I turned the key on and the fuel pump is working perfectly. I ran a 1" vent hose from the oil tank to the outlet on top of the engine. I turned the key on and checked out all of the electricals and the gauges. I have to find the oil pressure wire in the dash, but in the mean time I can use the wire I used for the four. I installed the distributor after removing the vacuum can to improve acess in the engine compartment. I used safety wire to lock down the vacuum advance plate. The spark plug wires are installed and plugged into the dizzy.
I think I'mn getting close. I need to find a pair of air cleaners and I haven't been to sucessful at shopping for those and I need a 911 tach. I need to fill the Velois tank with oil. How much does it hold? Anyone. I have to buy six spark plugs. What works good in a carbed 3.0 SC engine. Maybe instead of a 911 tach, I can get one of these:
http://www.technoversions.com/TachMatchHome.html

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif)
It's weird. Instead of getting excited, I'm really worried. I decided, with some good advice, not to rebuild this engine. Just stick it in and see if it runs. What if it doesn't? What if it does and rattles and smokes like Joe Camel. What if the pressure fed tensioners don't tension. Is this MSD wired right? I'm a nervous wreck. Maybe it wall start and everything will be fine.
I guess If I don't find air cleaners or a tach soon, I could crank it up without. Maybe this weekend. Drinks are on me if it starts. If all goes well, I can drive it up to Rennsport reunion in October.
Bee Jay
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jcd914
post Jul 5 2011, 11:29 PM
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Bee Jay,
I always get nervous before starting and engine that I've done a lot of work on. You aways wonder if you missed something or in your case there is a problem you didn't know about. All you can to is dot the "I's" and cross the "T's" as best you can and keep moving forward.
I always crank the engine over the first time without the plugs in it until I get oil pressure. So after you get oil in it (probably 8 qts to start with) and an oil pressure gauge wired in, crank it over with the no power to the ignition system.

Good luck
Jim
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moparrob
post Jul 5 2011, 11:35 PM
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Don't worry about those thing that are out of your control. It's a Porsche and it will start and run like a champ (once you get the Webers set up).

Out of curiosity, why did you choose to buck the conventional wisdom regarding your gear oil choice. Everything I have read to date seems to say Swepco 201 is the hot ticket for the 901 gear box. I've heard of trannys chewing up their insides if you use Red Line or other synthetics. Which did you end up using?
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Bee Jay
post Jul 6 2011, 11:41 AM
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QUOTE(moparrob @ Jul 5 2011, 10:35 PM) *

Don't worry about those thing that are out of your control. It's a Porsche and it will start and run like a champ (once you get the Webers set up).

Out of curiosity, why did you choose to buck the conventional wisdom regarding your gear oil choice. Everything I have read to date seems to say Swepco 201 is the hot ticket for the 901 gear box. I've heard of trannys chewing up their insides if you use Red Line or other synthetics. Which did you end up using?

I didn't know conventional wisdom was to use Swepco. I think I put Castorl 75w90 synthetic. I'll have to check when I get home.
Bee Jay
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Scott S
post Jul 6 2011, 11:57 AM
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Hi Bee Jay -
What fuel pump and pressure regulator did you go with? Did you dead head the fuel flow at the carbs or are you running a return line back to the tank?
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patssle
post Jul 6 2011, 12:13 PM
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Thankfully I did my Weber conversion while the engine is still in running order in the 911. A little peace of mind that when I put the /6 into the 914 - that'll be one less thing to diagnose if it doesn't start!

Did you get your dizzy recurved? I'm trying to decide if I wanted to get mine re-curved or a programmable ignition (MSD 6AL2) but Barry in Detroit said the programmable won't work. But I've read otherwise.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Jul 6 2011, 01:47 PM
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QUOTE(moparrob @ Jul 5 2011, 10:35 PM) *

Don't worry about those thing that are out of your control. It's a Porsche and it will start and run like a champ (once you get the Webers set up).

Out of curiosity, why did you choose to buck the conventional wisdom regarding your gear oil choice. Everything I have read to date seems to say Swepco 201 is the hot ticket for the 901 gear box. I've heard of trannys chewing up their insides if you use Red Line or other synthetics. Which did you end up using?


"Conventional wisdom" in this case consists of believing too much of what you read in "enthusiast" magazines and forums like this one, without considering the qualifications and agenda of the person making the statement. Regular gear oil is cheaper than "SWEPCO 201" or synthetics, and works just fine in our gearboxes, providing you use GL5 ONLY. I've never heard of properly used synthetic gear oils "chewing up" the insides of gearboxes, and I've been rebuilding Porsche trannies since 1971. If they meed the specs, they'll do the job, albeit at a price far higher than conventional gear oils.

I read Bee Jay's answer to this question, and I caution him to look at the Castrol container. If it doesn't say GL5, it's the WRONG gear oil. No GL4-GL5, no one-size-fits-all, no MoSO2 additives, just "GL5".

The Cap'n
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tomeric914
post Jul 6 2011, 01:56 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Jul 6 2011, 03:47 PM) *

I read Bee Jay's answer to this question, and I caution him to look at the Castrol container. If it doesn't say GL5, it's the WRONG gear oil. No GL4-GL5, no one-size-fits-all, no MoSO2 additives, just "GL5".

I agree with the Cap'n. It's been mentioned elsewhere, and I have noticed, that "conventional GL-5 gear oil" doesn't leak past tranny seals whereas synthetic oils do. Don't waste your money.

Here's Syntec http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongene...ntentId=7036193

Here's regular Hypoy C http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongene...ntentId=7036192

Both are listed as GL-5 for 75W-90
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Bee Jay
post Jul 6 2011, 03:16 PM
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QUOTE(tomeric914 @ Jul 6 2011, 12:56 PM) *

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Jul 6 2011, 03:47 PM) *

I read Bee Jay's answer to this question, and I caution him to look at the Castrol container. If it doesn't say GL5, it's the WRONG gear oil. No GL4-GL5, no one-size-fits-all, no MoSO2 additives, just "GL5".

I agree with the Cap'n. It's been mentioned elsewhere, and I have noticed, that "conventional GL-5 gear oil" doesn't leak past tranny seals whereas synthetic oils do. Don't waste your money.

Here's Syntec http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongene...ntentId=7036193

Both are listed as GL-5 for 75W-90

Hey, that's the stuff I put in!!!!. I guess I'm alright. Geez, this Porsche tranny is more picky than my Ferrari tranny. Put the wrong stuff in there and you've got real problems.
Thanks guys for not letting me mess up.

Bee Jay
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Bee Jay
post Jul 10 2011, 11:37 PM
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IT STARTED!!!!
Saturday I filled the oil tank with 8 quarts of Shell 10W30. Then I cranked for 60 seconds. The starter works good. For 15 seconds, nothing, then the oil light went off, then the oil pressure gauge jumped up to 20. OK, good starter, good oil pump. This morning, Sunday, I hooked up the coil and one NGK BPR6ES spark plug to the #1 spark plug wire. I cranked again, and the spark plug sparked. Then I put the six plugs in gapped at .040. Then I plugged the fuel pump in and turned the key on, 8 psi. That is strange, because the same fuel pump did 4psi with the four cylinder engine and a pair of Dellorto carbs. Soon, the carbs were pumping when gave it some throtle and they weren't leaking. OK, oil pressure, spark, fuel pressure. At 3:40 pm, I cranked for about 30 seconds, nothing. I pumped the carbs a few times and cranked some more. The engine was trying but not quite starting. Then on the next crank it started. Praise God and Thank you Jesus! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Wohoo. I kept it reved for about a minute and then let off the throttle, the engine was idling. I have no idea what it was idling at, the tach was not working, but it was idling. The oil pressure was pegged and I could not tell if the oil temp gauge was working because it was pegged cold. I let it run for 15 minutes and the oil pressure started coming down a little. That was as long as I wanted to go with no Tach, no oil temp, and I wasn't sure how close the timing was. I have a major oil leak from somewhere in the front of the engine, and a few minor leaks in other places. I hope nothing major, but the major leak might be behing the motor mount. The fuel pressure is too high, so I will have to address that. The engine smoked like a chimney at first, but now it only smokes when I give it gas. I hope that doesn't continue but I know I bought a high mileage engine. And I still need air cleaners and a tach. But tonight I am happy the engine started. I'll set the timing and adjust the carbs this week. Film at 11.
Bee Jay



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campbellcj
post Jul 10 2011, 11:59 PM
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Hey congrats BeeJay, that's awesome!

You can find good "T" or "E" tachs on the Pelican or Early 911S boards all the time; they're way cheaper than "S" tachs and you can always have them rebuilt with a different redline mark if you wish. Bummer on the timing - I had a spare tach for years but just sold it recently.
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AZ914
post Jul 11 2011, 08:03 AM
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Awesome BeeJay! BTW, thanks for this thread and all the detail and pictures... it is really helping me with my conversion.
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RiqueMar
post Jul 11 2011, 08:25 AM
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QUOTE(AZ914 @ Jul 11 2011, 07:03 AM) *

Awesome BeeJay! BTW, thanks for this thread and all the detail and pictures... it is really helping me with my conversion.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

We need another smiley that says, "THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT VIDEO!"


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Bee Jay
post Jul 11 2011, 08:39 AM
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QUOTE(RiqueMar @ Jul 11 2011, 07:25 AM) *

QUOTE(AZ914 @ Jul 11 2011, 07:03 AM) *

Awesome BeeJay! BTW, thanks for this thread and all the detail and pictures... it is really helping me with my conversion.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

We need another smiley that says, "THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT VIDEO!"


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Here is the video, I hope. Nothing special. Engine idleing.
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moparrob
post Jul 11 2011, 09:20 AM
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Awesome! That made my morning complete.
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RiqueMar
post Jul 11 2011, 09:42 AM
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Awesome to hear! Get that thing done for Rennsport Reunion! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) I believe I read earlier in your thread that you are going?

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