Shall I say...SIX?, costs, plus' and minus' of conversion Options

[Eddie Williams]

What is a good fuel pump choice for a -6 conversion with Weber carbs?

[Trekkor]

I expect there is a popular electric pump that produces low pressure that everyone uses. Along with a regulator to get down to 4-6 psi.

Is it possible to retain the stock pump with a regulator and bypass line to return to tank?

[SirAndy]

Is it possible to retain the stock pump with a regulator and bypass line to return to tank?

yes.
it also makes for a nice 914-bonfire ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Andy

[Trekkor]

I believe it would be a 914-6 bonfire...actually (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol2.gif)

[ArtechnikA]

What is a good fuel pump choice for a -6 conversion with Weber carbs?

914.6 fuel pump:
911.608.107.00

[seanery]

I've got a facet on both my cars -4 and -6.

[Gint]

Just re-read this thread.

Do It! Do It! Do It!

No one has said "Hey, bro, I've got a small six and it rocks. It is so much better than that fuel injected 4 I had. I really love the way it winds up and gets me going"

Is that because the small six is garbage?  

Who has this motor, and is diggin' it big?

I do, and I love it.

But mine isn't stock. I know that, and so does everyone that ever drove it. No one knows for sure what's in it. According to a mix of advertisements from Larry Lee's db that seem to be correct based on the seat of the pants dyno, and what I can definitely confirm, it is - built on a stock 914/6 case, with E-cams, S-pistons and dizzy and 11 blade fan. If I had to guess, it's 120-140 HP at the rear wheels, maybe a tad more. The car will go on a dyno when the resto is complete.

[theol00]

Go for it - I just got mine back - 2.2ltr 6 - e cams - lots of fun - goes like stink - and sounds like an angelic choire !
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge6.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/MDB2.gif)

[Trekkor]

goes like stink

I definitely want to stink! In an angelic way, of course!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) Mooseheads for all a ya!

I'll video tape the start up and run.

[J P Stein]

Stink is gud.

Replay of a vid some of you may have missed.

http://www.914world.com/downloads/Videos/P3280103.MOV

You'll need Quicktime.

[SP9146]

I'm restoring a factory 6 and have the stock 2.0L out of it now. Car was sitting about 10 years when I bought it. Had the leaves cleaned out of engine bay, new hoses, rebuilt webers, etc. Drove the car two months before beginning the resto.

I also have an '86 3.2L Carrera.

I've never driven a 2.0L 4-cyl. 914 just the 2.0L six. I wouldn't say it rocks but it's a very nice engine in such a light car. The exhaust system was bad and so the sound wasn't perfect but still good, like a Porsche flat 6. Compared to the 3.2L the sound is a higher pitched.

The sound of the 3.2 is different. Deeper and more of that classic Porsche 911 sound (not sure if engine related or 911 vs. 914 body related). Fuel injection makes it like a 2.0 4-cyl., always fires up. The Webers in the 2.0 are more tempremental when cold. When warm they're fine.

The problem with the 2.0 six is that it doesn't make much power. Don't get me wrong the car moves well but you have to really work the gears. The 3.2 feels like a truck motor in comparison, lots more torque.

I really wanted to replace the 2.0 with a 3.2 but then figured I'd end up with a $45K 914 worth maybe $25K instead of a $35K 914 worth $25K. I figure a completely stock factory 6 restored well is worth about the same as a converted factory 6. So I'm doing same thing as you putting in the 2.0 seeing if I like and if not upgrading to 3.2.

I heard there's not a whole lot you can do to get power up on a 2.0 but I'm going to ask mechanic to do as much as possible without doing a rebuild. Any ideas on easy power upgrades that don't change the character of the engine? I'm going with a 911 exhaust system.

If I was in your situation and needing to pay for the conversion on top of the engine I think I'd take a hard look at the 3.2 or Jake's motor. You'll have maybe $5K (?) more in project after selling the 2.0 but a much faster car that's not just "nice" but also rocks. I think your car would be worth much more with a larger than 2.0 engine, probably more than the investment difference. Financially you'd come out ahead.

If I imagine that 3.2 out of my Carrera in the 914-6 it just seems like nirvana. Brad makes a great point about the gearing of a stock 914 tranny, seems like it would be too low for a big engine like the 3.2.

Pete

[Trekkor]

Keep us posted on your project , too SP.

Everything is in place to start the engine today...EXCEPT. I had tickets fall into my lap free for the Giants vs. A's game tonight at 6:00.

I'll be leaving for that in an hour or so.
Maybe tomorrow it'll come to life.

Anyone know about " The Racer's Group" in Sonoma for engine dyno's. Brad?

I must *know* for sure what I have before I commit.( or commit myself (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) )

Also saw an ad on pg.51 of June Panorama for " Racing Cams ". $299 for the set, exch.

Feedback please.

KT

[seanery]

Trekkor, E cams would probably be good for you. You give up some ultimate horsepower for torque. I think for a street/autocross car that would be a good choice.

[IronHillRestorations]

Trekkor, E cams would probably be good for you. You give up some ultimate horsepower for torque. I think for a street/autocross car that would be a good choice.

For all around great performance, I'd probably go with the "Solex" grind. My personal preference is "S" cams or even hotter (GE60) for 3.0's and up.

I can give up low end grunt for high end scream, but that's my personal preference.

The last customer car I did had a 2.7 build up on a 2.4S, with real RS pistons and Solex cams. That engine is pretty impressive. Loads of torque, and respectable high end output. The customer (don9146) purchased the engine complete and running from a guy going to a 3.2.

PK (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

[Rusty]

For all around great performance, I'd probably go with the "Solex" grind.

You mentioned solex cams... I've read that they provide a very streetable power-band on smaller engines, too.

When I get home, I'm considering a rebuild on my /6. I have an oil leak at the caseline that I can't get rid of without splitting it. I've done some reading and research... I have two choices:

1. Rebuild the existing motor, bored out cylinders to 2.2, solex cams and custom JE pistons. A bit of headwork will help make it flow. Add piston squirters, the oil bypass mod and other clean-up machine work, and I'm in the 6-7k range for the motor I think.

2. Buy another used motor outright (up to 2.7), and box up the stock motor for a future project.

Any used motor is a risk, but some risk can be mitigated. Buying outight is immediate gratification. Anything up to 2.7 will be bolt in, no flywheel mods required. With rejetting, my Webers will work on most any motor up to that size, cept for some RS spec monster. We all know how I feel about FI. :finger2:

Building my own has it's own unique challenges, but I'm pretty sure I can do that. Overall, less cost effective, but you pay for the experience and the knowledge that things are done right, and will last.

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[seanery]

Rusty, any date on coming home?

I think I'd buy a core motor and rebuild it while you can still drive your current one.

[anthony]

Why not a 3 or 3.2L? So what if you have to change the flywheel? And it will be cheaper than rebuilding.

I looked at a 914-6 where this lady had over $10K into a 2L -> 2.2 E/S rebuild. The invoice for parts alone was $5K for E heads, E cams, S pistons and cylinders, and all the other small parts needed for a rebuild.

[Rusty]

Rusty, any date on coming home?

I think I'd buy a core motor and rebuild it while you can still drive your current one.

Nope, no date. Lots of rumors, but that's all they are. I come home when I step off the plane.

Why not a 3 or 3.2L? So what if you have to change the flywheel? And it will be cheaper than rebuilding.

I looked at a 914-6 where this lady had over $10K into a 2L -> 2.2 E/S rebuild. The invoice for parts alone was $5K for E heads, E cams, S pistons and cylinders, and all the other small parts needed for a rebuild.

I believe it. The /6 parts are astronomical. Why not a 3.2?

1. I hate fuel injection. Don't try to convert me: I'm happy to be a heathen.
2. A 3.0 or larger means new flywheel (something I just replaced), and more HP on my stock 901 transmission. I don't need all that extra power, and it will just end up chewing up my gearbox.
3. Anything larger than a 2.7 means that a front mounted oil cooler is mandatory. Again, not interested in cutting my chassis or the expense.
4. Anything larger than a 3.0 won't breathe well with stock heat exchangers... and that's what I intend on keeping on the car.

Sometimes smaller IS better.

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

This post has been edited by Lawrence: Jun 27 2004, 08:44 AM

[ArtechnikA]

911s don't have them, why would a 914 with the same engine need one?

standard 3,0 SC's have the trombone cooler; turbo's got the radiator cooler.
many 2,7's had front coolers, and IIRC all 3,0's and up had at least the front trombone (which is basically just a way to turn the oil around and get it back to the tank - a significant amount of the cooling is actually done by the line fore and aft.

911's have significantly better airflow into the engine compartment than 914's, which always ran a little hotter than the 911 with the same engine (for which reason Porsche moved the red zone on the oil temp gage a bit to the right).

[Brad Roberts]

When people say: "The small engines are fine" I immediately ask them if they have ever ridden in a 3.0 or 3.2 powered 914. 99% of the time the answer is NO.

The price to rebuild a small 6: 10-12k. price to rebuild a 3.0 and up: 10-12k

The small engines look good up front because they are normally REALLY cheap.

Porsche changed when they released the 3.0. Quality went WAY up.

Unless you are governed by some racing rules or building a car for a specific class.. run a 3.0/3.2/3.6.

I also factor in driveability. An injected 3.0/3.2/3.6 quickly becomes a awesome daily driver with enough balls to run with just about anything being produced today and still get decent gas mileage.


B