Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[dan10101]

Hmm, DejaView all over again.

Or was it me last time...

#Dadmodeon
Wear your safety equipment!!!
#Dadmodeoff

Glad you got it taken care of.

[Andyrew]

I was wearing my good goggles.. damn dremmels just kick out a ton of debris. I'm getting a full face mask to use over my goggles. When I am using the dremmel it typically shoots the Sparks directly in my face, and I have to be very close to see perfectly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[76-914]

Careful with those eyes. Replacement parts rival Porsche parts in price. Your heading down the right path. Should be a runner soon. Stay after it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[worn]

I was wearing my good goggles.. damn dremmels just kick out a ton of debris. I'm getting a full face mask to use over my goggles. When I am using the dremmel it typically shoots the Sparks directly in my face, and I have to be very close to see perfectly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Have used the dremmel a lot and find that wire brush wheels are extremely dangerous. To the point where I had a piece of stainless brush wire pierce through my nose. Not really that keen on jewelry and it could have been my eye.

[Andyrew]

I was wearing my good goggles.. damn dremmels just kick out a ton of debris. I'm getting a full face mask to use over my goggles. When I am using the dremmel it typically shoots the Sparks directly in my face, and I have to be very close to see perfectly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Have used the dremmel a lot and find that wire brush wheels are extremely dangerous. To the point where I had a piece of stainless brush wire pierce through my nose. Not really that keen on jewelry and it could have been my eye.

Wire brush wheels are not my favorite thing either.. This was the tiny cutoff wheels with the EZ lock connector. I like them, they cut well, but when they wear down they just throw debris and finally explode.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i5.walmartimages.com-172-1535050352.1.jpeg)

[Andyrew]

Cleaned up a bit more. Working on the connections to the 914 body harness/lights. Decided to try the new connector hardware. Works pretty good but it needs the special tool or else it's pretty difficult to install. I soldered them when I was done with crimping them.

Helping hands was nice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Andyrew]

Been busy!


I made the mistake of cutting out two connectors that ran to the rear of the car for lighting. The thing is when I cut things out I also cut the wires back as far as possible. I do however leave enough room to connect to the wire in the future if need be and put some heat shrink on each wire.

So after 3 nights of research testing and scouring for like wire colors and size to splice back in I got it back... In the end the job will be cleaner.


I got as far as air dare go on the main harness and went after the engine harness.

If you remember I wanted to extend the harness. Well I found a way of routing it that I don't need to. I'm going to put a couple extra inches Into the engine bay and maybe extend a wire or two but I think I'll be ok. If I need to extend it I'm extending it like 3 feet to wrap around the engine bay and be completely hidden.
The blue bucket is full of removed wires, relays and connectors from the engine bay harness. Not pictured are 3 sensors that have resistors that Ishortened and moved out of the engine bay.

A couple of pieces I got was a new temp sensor connector and sensor. I'm going to pray that this is the issue as I haven't found anything else wrong yet. I'll wire this in next.


Next step is to cut the hole in the firewall out of plain sight (like I did last time) and confirm the wires are long enough. Then connect everying up and test it all and look for issues. I've been bench testing the lights and guage cluster but that's it so far.

Once everything is all good I'll finalize some connections run some wires for a pop up headlight switch, and finally wrap everything. I have some great wrap as well as some new super awesome heat shrink. This stuff is up to 2" wide!! When it's fully shrink it's about 1/8" thick!

Some connectors I pinned up and heat shrunk below. 3:1 shrink ratio is also awesome.

[76-914]

The temp sensor is the suspect, correct? Post a link to the 3:1 heat shrink. Is it marine grade? Stay after it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Andyrew]

The temp sensor is the suspect, correct? Post a link to the 3:1 heat shrink. Is it marine grade? Stay after it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Temp sensor is what Bellis thinks it is, I've replaced it a couple times but never had a good connector in the harness so hopefully this ends up being the issue. If not, more spares (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

My other thought is the crank position sensor, I havent gone through and checked the wiring on it yet but its on my short TO DO list prior to wrapping both harnesses.

Sorry, its 4:1 shrink tube (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNC7VW...=UTF8&psc=1
This supplier has lots of sizes, I ordered 4 feet of each size I needed that should cover any size needed (4:1 is NICE) and shipping was only $6 total for a total order of $42.

So far REALLY happy with it, I just need to shrink it on LOW heat with my heat gun as it melted my wrap on one of my wire bundles. Also when its cooled its almost completely stiff. It should do an amazing job protecting my connector wiring. Lastly its adhesive lined so it wont move on the connector.

[Curbandgutter]

OK now I know who to turn to when I get to wiring my car. Your work is top notch. I'll be calling you to find out where to get all those fancy connectors and sheathing.

By the way this is the mask that I use, it may be helpful for you as well.

Here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/Uvex-Bionic-Polycarb...ASIN=B001VY3ACE

[Andyrew]

OK now I know who to turn to when I get to wiring my car. Your work is top notch. I'll be calling you to find out where to get all those fancy connectors and sheathing.

By the way this is the mask that I use, it may be helpful for you as well.

Here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/Uvex-Bionic-Polycarb...ASIN=B001VY3ACE

I put that one on my wish list (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) My welding helmet has a grind mode and I found one of my old face shields (stuck in a box from moving) so Im going to try that for now. But this is on the short list to buy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif).


This is the connectors. The single review is from me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I bought a second box as they only came with 2 of each size and I was out of one of them (And liked them for the money). But for the money I like them a lot. I end up doing a tiny dab of solder on most pins.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FTRV25...=UTF8&psc=1

I use this tool, but it still needs some persuasion which can be done with this too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G98DLB...=UTF8&psc=1

The sleeving im using is this kind. (different sizes). Its OK. As mentioned the heat gun will melt it on hot, so I have to be careful with this thick heat shrink
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GM1PK...=UTF8&psc=1

[Mike Bellis]

I've had to commute in the 914 for the last 4-5 days. Today the car dropped into limp mode 4 times and has a check engine light. Each time I restarted and it came out of limp mode. Not sure what's going on. I'll hook my VagCom up to it tomorrow after work. Taking the wife's car tomorrow.

[Matty900]

Been busy!


I made the mistake of cutting out two connectors that ran to the rear of the car for lighting. The thing is when I cut things out I also cut the wires back as far as possible. I do however leave enough room to connect to the wire in the future if need be and put some heat shrink on each wire.

So after 3 nights of research testing and scouring for like wire colors and size to splice back in I got it back... In the end the job will be cleaner.


I got as far as air dare go on the main harness and went after the engine harness.

If you remember I wanted to extend the harness. Well I found a way of routing it that I don't need to. I'm going to put a couple extra inches Into the engine bay and maybe extend a wire or two but I think I'll be ok. If I need to extend it I'm extending it like 3 feet to wrap around the engine bay and be completely hidden.
The blue bucket is full of removed wires, relays and connectors from the engine bay harness. Not pictured are 3 sensors that have resistors that Ishortened and moved out of the engine bay.

A couple of pieces I got was a new temp sensor connector and sensor. I'm going to pray that this is the issue as I haven't found anything else wrong yet. I'll wire this in next.


Next step is to cut the hole in the firewall out of plain sight (like I did last time) and confirm the wires are long enough. Then connect everying up and test it all and look for issues. I've been bench testing the lights and guage cluster but that's it so far.

Once everything is all good I'll finalize some connections run some wires for a pop up headlight switch, and finally wrap everything. I have some great wrap as well as some new super awesome heat shrink. This stuff is up to 2" wide!! When it's fully shrink it's about 1/8" thick!

Some connectors I pinned up and heat shrunk below. 3:1 shrink ratio is also awesome.

Looking good Andrew.
One thing that caused me an issue on my Micro Squirt harness was the adhesive shrink wrap being too close to the plug at the main plugin. That had me replacing parts to try and hunt down the gremlin It put a lot of tension on the pins whenever we moved it in and out. It ended up opening up the pins at the outside (where the power wire was) just enough to cause a signal loss intermittently.
I hope that makes sense.
Anyway, keep up the good work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Andyrew]

Makes complete sense! I did however hot glue all the backsides of the pins so they won't move in the connector so I have a feeling that won't be an issue but you never know!

[Mike Bellis]

You need your VCDS...

Figured out my limp mode. Still have to fix it but it's wiring somewhere... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

See below. Low voltage and ABS are the normal codes. Throttle code was the cuase.

[Andyrew]

Only a couple wires to it. I have it fully blown out now if you want me to sent you any pics.

Yes I need to get my vcds (Obd2 reader specific to VW/Audifor those following at home) working. Maybe I'll hook it up tomorrow and see what issues I'm having.

[Andyrew]

I stopped working on the engine harness as it's ready for me to test it. I went back to the dash harness (main harness) and added some more connectors.

Just as a side note, I'm pinning all these connectors by hand. It typically takes me 45mins per side to do these for say a 5 wire connector. It involves making sure the wires are long enough, adding if necessary then taping the wire leading up to the connector so they don't move, cutting them all to the same length, stripping 3/8" off each one (if it's a thick wire I can use my strippers, else I use a razor blade on the thin wires.) I then put the pin on and butt the second prong to the wire sleaving. Work the connection pins over with my tool so they will fold under each other or wrap the wire when crimped and crimp with my tool. Repeat for the rear pin holding the wire. Then squeeze up the insulating grommet. If it's a thin wire I fire up the soldering gun and tin the wires in the connector really quick. Once that's good I repeat for all the wires. Finally I tape them together at the ends and feed in the wire sleaving I use and cut to length burning the ends so they don't split. I throw some heat shrink down in multiples as well as my new super awesome 4:1 shrink in about a 2.5" length. I shove the wires in the connector making sure they go in all the way and click (Sometimes pulling them into place with a needle nose). Then push the weather seal into place by hand followed by a special tool I made to get them as deep as possible. Check to make sure all the pins are in the correct angle and hot glue the remaining space in the connector (1/4"). I slip the wire sleeve up to the edge of the connector while the glue is still hot and run one layer of tape to make sure it stays while heat shrinking. I apply the smaller heat shrink (both ends of the sleeping) and finalize it with the big heat shrink around the connector which takes some time and careful work with the heat gun. At this point I test the connections wait for the shrink to cool and admire my handiwork.

Speaking of... this was 3 hours of work...



At this point I have been spending 10 hrs a week in the garage (typically from 9am to 1am, Friday and Saturday nights and a bit here and there. On this wiring for the past 5 weeks... I'm pretty tired of it now... It's relaxing and I can listen to some shows my wife and girl don't like but still.

[daytona]

Hi Andrew,
You are doing a great job. Makes me want to redo the harness in my car. Got a question: the braided sleeve you are using; is that heat shrinkable as well?
Thanks,
Bill.

[bbrock]

... and admire my handiwork.

As well you should! Fantastic work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Andyrew]

Hi Andrew,
You are doing a great job. Makes me want to redo the harness in my car. Got a question: the braided sleeve you are using; is that heat shrinkable as well?
Thanks,
Bill.

Bill,

Not on purpose (it will shrink when it melts with direct high heat from the heat gun) ... The sleaving I'm using is the expandable sleaving, you push the ends together and it opens up, you pull it and it shrinks down. Think chineese finger traps.


My biggest issue with it I am often forgetting to put the sleaving on prior to the connector.. when that happens I have to use my split sleaving. I like the split a bit more, it's not as clean looking but it is so much more forgiving.

Problem is the split stuff is about 4x the price and hard to get it in long lengths. You also need more sizes as it only covers certain sized wires.