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> Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall!
Krieger
post May 9 2019, 08:00 AM
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Congratulations! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
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tygaboy
post May 9 2019, 08:01 AM
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Progress, indeed! Happy to hear you're getting it there!
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dan10101
post May 9 2019, 08:38 AM
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Awesome progress!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Stacking um up and knocking them down! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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76-914
post May 9 2019, 09:46 AM
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I hope that is the answer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914
post May 9 2019, 09:49 AM
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duplicate
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Andyrew
post May 9 2019, 09:58 AM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ May 9 2019, 08:46 AM) *

I hope that is the answer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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Chris H.
post May 9 2019, 01:39 PM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ May 9 2019, 10:58 AM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ May 9 2019, 08:46 AM) *

I hope that is the answer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)



Yeah that is so WEIRD. Seems like it has to be fuel since you replaced almost all the senders/sensors. Normally I would say temp sensor but I think you checked it already. It would also likely be easier to start when warm vs. cold with a bad or miswired temp sensor. Sounds like you have the opposite problem. The starter fluid is a good idea.


Nice work on the new steering setup. Love the dash. That's going to be really nice.
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ValcoOscar
post May 9 2019, 02:00 PM
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I enjoyed your video... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Oscar
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Andyrew
post May 9 2019, 10:23 PM
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Starter fluid works.

More driving around video and me trying out the starter fluid.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlPDrgQBAmQ
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Chris914n6
post May 10 2019, 12:28 AM
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Are you losing fuel pressure when the car is off? Takes easily 2-3 seconds to build pressure with the pump on the other side of the car. Your cranks on film are too short.

BMW and likely a few others (like your Infiniti) actually trigger the fuel pump when the door is opened or other sign of pending use, like the remote is nearby, say in my pocket, as I replace an injector... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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jd74914
post May 10 2019, 05:02 AM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ May 9 2019, 02:39 PM) *

QUOTE(Andyrew @ May 9 2019, 10:58 AM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ May 9 2019, 08:46 AM) *

I hope that is the answer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)



Yeah that is so WEIRD. Seems like it has to be fuel since you replaced almost all the senders/sensors. Normally I would say temp sensor but I think you checked it already. It would also likely be easier to start when warm vs. cold with a bad or miswired temp sensor. Sounds like you have the opposite problem. The starter fluid is a good idea.

It's not an uncommon problem actually. You typically have a one time starting pulse adder which is a function of engines temperature and also a startup enrichment table with pulse modifier which is on a temperature vs. crank number table. If you taper off too fast with temperature you can have issues. Sometimes, people also have the thresholds for starting engine speed too low so they car starts thinking it's running when it's cranking really fast and doesn't get any extra fuel. Lots of little nuances can cause a lack of hot start fuel unfortunately.

Hope you guys figure it out soon!
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Andyrew
post May 10 2019, 06:43 AM
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QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ May 9 2019, 11:28 PM) *

Are you losing fuel pressure when the car is off? Takes easily 2-3 seconds to build pressure with the pump on the other side of the car. Your cranks on film are too short.

BMW and likely a few others (like your Infiniti) actually trigger the fuel pump when the door is opened or other sign of pending use, like the remote is nearby, say in my pocket, as I replace an injector... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Pump is literally next to the engine, and it's an 044.

I've tried letting it build pressure with no avail and letting it crank for a minute with no results. Audi kills ignition on cranking after 5 seconds.


JD is correct my tuner said the same thing. It's going to take some time to figure out but we'll get it.



Also quick note, I am running 1300CC injectors, so I have a strong feeling with them being so large its compounding this start issue.
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76-914
post May 10 2019, 08:39 AM
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Hot Damn! Way to go. Why didn't Mike encounter these problems. Is he running an aftermarket ECU?
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Chris914n6
post May 10 2019, 01:23 PM
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Are you sure you're getting a start signal to the ecu? Usually it triggers batch fire as the air isn't moving fast enough for sequential to work right.

Injectors timed to spray into OPEN valves? 1300cc is going to have some latency.
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Andyrew
post May 11 2019, 01:18 AM
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QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ May 10 2019, 12:23 PM) *

Are you sure you're getting a start signal to the ecu? Usually it triggers batch fire as the air isn't moving fast enough for sequential to work right.

Injectors timed to spray into OPEN valves? 1300cc is going to have some latency.


Interesting point. Very possible that its not getting start signal. Not really sure how I would test it, I'll bring it up to my tuner.

Injectors should be timed right, but who knows... I'll have my tuner check the existing tune and figure it out and we'll go from there.




Taco bell run for lunch. Ran pretty good. Transmission seems to be getting slightly worse. Not as slick as it was last night for some reason specifically getting into first. I'll try it again next week and see what I find. Some noises I didnt like, and the steering has a weird spot where something feels loose, I'll nut and bolt everything and check the bearings in the column.

Also did a 1-2 pull. For some reason the gearing seems much shorter than I remember. 2nd gear should be the same but it was shorter than I remember. Im only on wastegate so it wasnt very quick, first gear probably didnt make more than 6lbs or it spun (which with the new LSD it shouldnt) and 2nd gear was decent, then it seemed to get a bit more boost for some reason and felt OK. My frame of reference is my 350hp daily sedan... I think theres room for improvement in the tune (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Cant wait till I get the boost in the 20's. Should feel like a rocket.

My tuner says he's ran 25psi on 91 octane with no adders. Which would be deep in the 300whp range.


So to recap the items Im going to be focusing on during the week this week are:

1. Solving the hot start issue with my tuner remotely
2. Calibrating the AFR guage
3. Fixing the intercooler fan controller power issue
4. Wiring in switches for the electric water pump and fuel pump
5. Program in the new boost controller settings
6. Start figuring out what Im going to work on at the build day and get materials accordingly.
7. Mount and wire in the USB charger and stereo
8. Find a better permanent home for the water pump controller



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Andyrew
post May 11 2019, 01:34 AM
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Messing around with the new boost controller programing. It's now closed loop capable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Im building an rpm x throttle position tune as I'm thinking this would be best for drivability.


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tygaboy
post May 11 2019, 07:59 AM
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Hi Andrew - Regarding how the shifting is feeling: I don't recall if you have a 5 or 6-speed but if it's a 6, I have the Numeric shifter and cables. You're welcome to borrow them to see if any/all of those components are the root cause.

Or, if you're planning to bring the car to my place on the 18th, we could swap it in for a quick test.

The Numeric site also has some nice vids on adjusting the cables. Not sure if this helps with non-Numeric parts but it may be worth a look.

https://numericracing.com/guides/

See you soon!
Chris
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Andyrew
post May 11 2019, 08:09 AM
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Shifter assembly shouldn't be any different.

Doesn't feel like a shifter issue but heck who knows. It could be just crappy cables but I did just swap them out with my spares and they feel pretty good.

I'm now realizing that I didn't tie up my cables after I swapped then so they could have gotten some heat from the turbo and messed up. I'll have to check that.


Thanks for the offer Chris (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) do you have the N100 or N400?
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tygaboy
post May 11 2019, 09:01 AM
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QUOTE(Andyrew @ May 11 2019, 07:09 AM) *

Shifter assembly shouldn't be any different.

Doesn't feel like a shifter issue but heck who knows. It could be just crappy cables but I did just swap them out with my spares and they feel pretty good.

I'm now realizing that I didn't tie up my cables after I swapped then so they could have gotten some heat from the turbo and messed up. I'll have to check that.


Thanks for the offer Chris (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) do you have the N100 or N400?


Mine's the NM100 and I have the Numeric standard length cables. I'm thinking it "should" be a straight bolt-in swap for yours?
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Andyrew
post May 11 2019, 09:51 AM
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QUOTE(tygaboy @ May 11 2019, 08:01 AM) *

QUOTE(Andyrew @ May 11 2019, 07:09 AM) *

Shifter assembly shouldn't be any different.

Doesn't feel like a shifter issue but heck who knows. It could be just crappy cables but I did just swap them out with my spares and they feel pretty good.

I'm now realizing that I didn't tie up my cables after I swapped then so they could have gotten some heat from the turbo and messed up. I'll have to check that.


Thanks for the offer Chris (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) do you have the N100 or N400?


Mine's the NM100 and I have the Numeric standard length cables. I'm thinking it "should" be a straight bolt-in swap for yours?



Shifter yes, cable maybe not due to length but I see no reason.

Fyi the cables are difficult to change for my car so if I brought the 914 I would just swap the shifter for a test.
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