Andyrews Progress Thread, 1/16/22 A Trip to The Red Barn - Lets fab a Firewall! Options

[76-914]

I hope that is the answer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[76-914]

duplicate

[Andyrew]

I hope that is the answer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Chris H.]

I hope that is the answer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Yeah that is so WEIRD. Seems like it has to be fuel since you replaced almost all the senders/sensors. Normally I would say temp sensor but I think you checked it already. It would also likely be easier to start when warm vs. cold with a bad or miswired temp sensor. Sounds like you have the opposite problem. The starter fluid is a good idea.


Nice work on the new steering setup. Love the dash. That's going to be really nice.

[ValcoOscar]

I enjoyed your video... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Oscar

[Andyrew]

Starter fluid works.

More driving around video and me trying out the starter fluid.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlPDrgQBAmQ

[Chris914n6]

Are you losing fuel pressure when the car is off? Takes easily 2-3 seconds to build pressure with the pump on the other side of the car. Your cranks on film are too short.

BMW and likely a few others (like your Infiniti) actually trigger the fuel pump when the door is opened or other sign of pending use, like the remote is nearby, say in my pocket, as I replace an injector... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[jd74914]

I hope that is the answer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Yeah that is so WEIRD. Seems like it has to be fuel since you replaced almost all the senders/sensors. Normally I would say temp sensor but I think you checked it already. It would also likely be easier to start when warm vs. cold with a bad or miswired temp sensor. Sounds like you have the opposite problem. The starter fluid is a good idea.

It's not an uncommon problem actually. You typically have a one time starting pulse adder which is a function of engines temperature and also a startup enrichment table with pulse modifier which is on a temperature vs. crank number table. If you taper off too fast with temperature you can have issues. Sometimes, people also have the thresholds for starting engine speed too low so they car starts thinking it's running when it's cranking really fast and doesn't get any extra fuel. Lots of little nuances can cause a lack of hot start fuel unfortunately.

Hope you guys figure it out soon!

[Andyrew]

Are you losing fuel pressure when the car is off? Takes easily 2-3 seconds to build pressure with the pump on the other side of the car. Your cranks on film are too short.

BMW and likely a few others (like your Infiniti) actually trigger the fuel pump when the door is opened or other sign of pending use, like the remote is nearby, say in my pocket, as I replace an injector... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Pump is literally next to the engine, and it's an 044.

I've tried letting it build pressure with no avail and letting it crank for a minute with no results. Audi kills ignition on cranking after 5 seconds.


JD is correct my tuner said the same thing. It's going to take some time to figure out but we'll get it.



Also quick note, I am running 1300CC injectors, so I have a strong feeling with them being so large its compounding this start issue.

[76-914]

Hot Damn! Way to go. Why didn't Mike encounter these problems. Is he running an aftermarket ECU?

[Chris914n6]

Are you sure you're getting a start signal to the ecu? Usually it triggers batch fire as the air isn't moving fast enough for sequential to work right.

Injectors timed to spray into OPEN valves? 1300cc is going to have some latency.

[Andyrew]

Are you sure you're getting a start signal to the ecu? Usually it triggers batch fire as the air isn't moving fast enough for sequential to work right.

Injectors timed to spray into OPEN valves? 1300cc is going to have some latency.

Interesting point. Very possible that its not getting start signal. Not really sure how I would test it, I'll bring it up to my tuner.

Injectors should be timed right, but who knows... I'll have my tuner check the existing tune and figure it out and we'll go from there.




Taco bell run for lunch. Ran pretty good. Transmission seems to be getting slightly worse. Not as slick as it was last night for some reason specifically getting into first. I'll try it again next week and see what I find. Some noises I didnt like, and the steering has a weird spot where something feels loose, I'll nut and bolt everything and check the bearings in the column.

Also did a 1-2 pull. For some reason the gearing seems much shorter than I remember. 2nd gear should be the same but it was shorter than I remember. Im only on wastegate so it wasnt very quick, first gear probably didnt make more than 6lbs or it spun (which with the new LSD it shouldnt) and 2nd gear was decent, then it seemed to get a bit more boost for some reason and felt OK. My frame of reference is my 350hp daily sedan... I think theres room for improvement in the tune (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Cant wait till I get the boost in the 20's. Should feel like a rocket.

My tuner says he's ran 25psi on 91 octane with no adders. Which would be deep in the 300whp range.


So to recap the items Im going to be focusing on during the week this week are:

1. Solving the hot start issue with my tuner remotely
2. Calibrating the AFR guage
3. Fixing the intercooler fan controller power issue
4. Wiring in switches for the electric water pump and fuel pump
5. Program in the new boost controller settings
6. Start figuring out what Im going to work on at the build day and get materials accordingly.
7. Mount and wire in the USB charger and stereo
8. Find a better permanent home for the water pump controller

[Andyrew]

Messing around with the new boost controller programing. It's now closed loop capable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Im building an rpm x throttle position tune as I'm thinking this would be best for drivability.

[tygaboy]

Hi Andrew - Regarding how the shifting is feeling: I don't recall if you have a 5 or 6-speed but if it's a 6, I have the Numeric shifter and cables. You're welcome to borrow them to see if any/all of those components are the root cause.

Or, if you're planning to bring the car to my place on the 18th, we could swap it in for a quick test.

The Numeric site also has some nice vids on adjusting the cables. Not sure if this helps with non-Numeric parts but it may be worth a look.

https://numericracing.com/guides/

See you soon!
Chris

[Andyrew]

Shifter assembly shouldn't be any different.

Doesn't feel like a shifter issue but heck who knows. It could be just crappy cables but I did just swap them out with my spares and they feel pretty good.

I'm now realizing that I didn't tie up my cables after I swapped then so they could have gotten some heat from the turbo and messed up. I'll have to check that.


Thanks for the offer Chris (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) do you have the N100 or N400?

[tygaboy]

Shifter assembly shouldn't be any different.

Doesn't feel like a shifter issue but heck who knows. It could be just crappy cables but I did just swap them out with my spares and they feel pretty good.

I'm now realizing that I didn't tie up my cables after I swapped then so they could have gotten some heat from the turbo and messed up. I'll have to check that.


Thanks for the offer Chris (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) do you have the N100 or N400?

Mine's the NM100 and I have the Numeric standard length cables. I'm thinking it "should" be a straight bolt-in swap for yours?

[Andyrew]

Shifter assembly shouldn't be any different.

Doesn't feel like a shifter issue but heck who knows. It could be just crappy cables but I did just swap them out with my spares and they feel pretty good.

I'm now realizing that I didn't tie up my cables after I swapped then so they could have gotten some heat from the turbo and messed up. I'll have to check that.


Thanks for the offer Chris (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) do you have the N100 or N400?

Mine's the NM100 and I have the Numeric standard length cables. I'm thinking it "should" be a straight bolt-in swap for yours?

Shifter yes, cable maybe not due to length but I see no reason.

Fyi the cables are difficult to change for my car so if I brought the 914 I would just swap the shifter for a test.

[Andyrew]

Lots went on this weekend!

Saturday was Build day at The Red Barn hosted by Chris @tygaboy!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=337633

As per usual I got a lot done but its never enough!

I should really go up there myself for a day and just work with all his tools... Just a killer awesome fab shop he has!


What I made! Center console pieces. They are just laying there right now, I'll be fabricating mounting points for them and trimming the pieces to fit then upholstering them. Not sure if black or brown yet or possibly both.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-172-1558250750_thumb.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-172-1558250829_thumb.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-172-1558250842_thumb.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-172-1558250853_thumb.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-172-1558250868_thumb.jpg)

Very comfortable arm position, Could be higher but uphostery pads will raise it some. As it sits now its a stretch to hold the wheel and rest the elbow at the same time, that will change.

[Andyrew]

Dyno day on Sunday went pretty well.


Ended up making 8lbs of boost actual manifold pressure on the wastegate and that did 247hp/198tq at the wheels. This was about 50 more than I was expecting which was the highlight of the day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

My boost controller was reading boost inaccurately so while I was showing 17+lbs of boost I was really only making 14psi. I had some spikes to 16psi but with a 7lb spring in the wastegate as we suspect right now we can only effectively double that and we didnt make any more power/boost after 14psi. So while the setup was ready for us to make 25psi yesterday we werent able to go over 14.


What did that net us?
282HP/258tq at the wheels. Its interesting, that 40ish hp delta between wastegate and max on this actuator feels way more than it actually is.


So whats next? I have a dual port internal wastegate actuator on order.
https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-warner...-port-actuator/

I'll put the small 7lb spring in it and then I can run the same 7psi but it will let me bump up the spring to what I want to do (30psi). I figured I could get into the 20's before the wastegate would let me go anymore but we were absolutely wrong.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

At that point what will hold me back is the intake manifold and cams. You can see my power curve rolls over about 6600. Which for an engine built to run to 9k and running this large of a turbo is wasted potential. Cams would bump my power curve up but it would also extend it out considerably.
This explains why It fell on its face after 7k. I'll do this next year. This year will be focusing on driving and finishing the majority of the car. Next year we'll go for power.

Side note, If I put cams and an intake on it, we would be into the 500whp territory... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)




Biggest thing about yesterday was the clutch though. Were having issues with the clutch dragging/ not fully disengaging when the engine is hot. This must be my shifting issue. When were doing back to back pulls with the engine hot we simply couldnt get it into gear... I had to force it in third gear to get the car rolling on the dyno then do the pull from there...
I'll try replacing the slave cylinder (I have a cast iron one on hand) and bleed the system again, then also extend the rod from the slave to as much as I can. The next option is the flywheel is a self adjusting unit and I've never reset it. I'll try that and put a new disk on. It might just be at the end of its travel and wont release any more even though its "released". Finally a new disk will just ensure its not the disk itself expanding when it gets hot.



And lastly, the starting issue is not fixed. But either starting works. We got it a bit better but it always starts with either.

[Andyrew]

Dynos




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3P0h9JyGbc