Jim Kelly's V8 re-conversion Options

[balljoint]

No thanks, I'd feel bad taking Daves gimp mask. The fish will be great (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

My mask is neoprene. Silly person.

Actually, I don't think Michael made any of those metal sculptures. His idea of metal work is choosing the stripper with the most sparkles on.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)


It's called glitter, Dave - not sparkles, glitter.

I stand corrected.

[hot_shoe914]

No thanks, I'd feel bad taking Daves gimp mask. The fish will be great (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

My mask is neoprene. Silly person.

Actually, I don't think Michael made any of those metal sculptures. His idea of metal work is choosing the stripper with the most sparkles on.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)


It's called glitter, Dave - not sparkles, glitter.

I stand corrected.

Bump for a potential customer for ScottyB.

[scotty b]

Put Jim's drivetrain back in. One of the issues I ran into was the trans adapters are actualy wider then the stock washers, so the slot needs to be opened up. Just another one of those unexpected time eaters (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[bulitt]

Very Nice! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[jimkelly]

finally got around to picking my car up at kahiko customs - need to button up a few things and get her back on the road. many thanks to scott for getting my car to where it is today.

(update jan 2019: i had some problems with scott but because he was so estemmed here, i chaulked it up to me running out of cash. it is now interesting to see others experience with scott. with me, scott got less pleasant and friendly as time went on and cost of metal work wasn't being advised prior to it being performed. that said, my car had far more rust than i expected. in the end he wanted to trade all my new suspension parts for the remainder of my metal work bill, so i paid cash and got my car back. shortly after getting my car back on the road it began leaking oil on engine he worked on as well. the rubber undercoat he used is not a long term product either, just rubs off.)

as for these cars and rust - all i can say is the best thing to do (for car owner and repair shop) is strip the car completely down - and blast the entire car. this is the only way you'll know what metal work your car really needs, in order to set a realistic resto budget.

if you need a tow ( of almost anything ), near or far, i can highly recommend ...
al hensel - out of elkton md
bad_kitty192 AT yahoo DOT com
cell: 410 nine two zero 3083

[jimkelly]

looking at what i have left to do, i've decided to start with running fuel line from tank to engine, fuel pump, filter, and pressure guage.

looks like i'll need to get a pressure regulator to drop psi to 3.5 or so.

nice to see inside tank looks real good.

i assume its better to install pump close to tank?? on front trunk firewall behind radiator?

jim

[mittelmotor]

Lookin' good, Jim! I like the pump up front. I've heard the pumps are better at pushing than pulling, so maybe closer to the tank is better. On the other hand, tank is so high that you have the gravity feed thing going.

Nice shot of the inside of the fuel tank. What sort of camera did you use?

--Doug

[jimkelly]

camera is a canon a620 - macro mode (many times with flash set to off) is neccessary for close up photos

[jimkelly]

question - what do you guys prefer?

the multi barbed nipple (like above) or the single barbed flat nipple?

looks like the larger tank nipple is 9.5mm

and do NPT threads need any sort of thread sealant??

[mittelmotor]

My engine's fuel injected with about 60 psi, so that explains multiple barbs. I double-clamped all of the supply-side connections, as I really don't want to pull the tank to make repairs.

I like a little dab of sealant everywhere, just for peace of mind!

[jimkelly]

some things i am not looking forward to doing with engine in, are...
1- removing T and installing proportioning valve, will probably need to relocate PV.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=104464&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=105705&hl=

2- running a new brake line thru tunnel. looks like straight shot.

3- running one fuel line thru tunnel for carbed engine. looks like straight shoot too.
note: supply line thru drivers side hole
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=114666&hl=
(gromets) http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessFuelLines.htm
** since i will be going with a 9.5mm supply line - i'll order 2 engine shelf gromets for reserve lines and one 9.5mm firewall gromet. when i figure out how i am gonna layout my fuel pump, regulator and fuel filter, i may decide to order more gromets. i'll order a 10 pack of 9.5mm fuel clamps too.

4- installing master cylinder. seems there are several ways to do this.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=102498&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=135177&hl=

5- bleeding brakes
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=106681&hl=

pray for me.

[jimkelly]

ok - i have been dicking around with starting to install MC.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...=0#entry1788989
i removed reserve lines - and yes - pressing them into MC requires less pressure - not more - and i did put a drop of brake fluid in the gromet to slip things up.

don't forget to put washers under gromets. hope i did it right, seems thye just lay in there.

need to get some 8mm fuel line to replace the short peices of dry rotted braided line that connects the 8mm feed lines from the MC to reservoir.

BTW - the lines are metal at bottom 20% and plastic at top 80% - line fuel lines.

label the lines - FDF (front on reservior, driver side hole, front on mc) and BSB back on reservior, pass side hole, back on mc)

[SUNAB914]

Looks easier than the way I did it. Have fun with the car.

[jimkelly]

reference pic of my 1975 to show where things should be.

i think i will run the new brake line, thru the firewall hole for the return fuel line.
and mount the prop valve up high on the passenger side of the firewall, near battery.

[bigkensteele]

i think i will run the new brake line, thru the firewall hole for the return fuel line.
and mount the prop valve up high on the passenger side of the firewall, near battery.

I would worry about the p-valve trapping air if it is higher than the rest of the braking system. Unless, of course, you have one with a bleeder valve.

[jimkelly]

good point. i just removed all the hard lines i'll be replacing and will make an effort to keep p valve low. i need to get me a second set of jack stands : )

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-3419-1327981193_thumb.jpg)

[jimkelly]

new planned PV location. i may be able to get PV into its correct location but i'd have to plump it prior to install and i'd have to use more couplings than i want to, and if i have any leaks, they would be hell to access. so i have removed the T i used the replace the PV years ago, and will locat the PV behind passenger, low down.

[Mike Bellis]

You should bite the bullet and drop the motor, do all the plumbing and check for leaks. It will be much easier to deal with... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[jimkelly]

while i would have liked to do it right - i decided to install PV on passenger side.

and it seems i need to locate one washer for the banjo bolt on the master cylinder.

looks like i'll be doing just about everything at least twice : ((

ran all new brake lines thru tunnel and in engine bay today. look forward to getting brakes buttoned up, so i can move on to fuel lines and fuel pump.

and last pic was taken by my wife, right after she said "don't let that car fall on you." that really touched me : ))

[jimkelly]

and my new to me, kerosene heater : ))

just bought my first few gallons of kerosene today.