Jim Kelly's V8 re-conversion Options

[scotty b]

I found where O.J.'s knife went. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) Removed the ventilation system, fuel system, cooling system and pretty much everything else that will be replaced or deleted. Popped out the seats, power washed the engine bay, underside ,and the front trunk. Removed the tar from the floor so we could see exactly what we have to deal with rust wise

[jimkelly]

anything from resto design needed - or is this all patch work?

how many hours are you estimating for this : )

she is gonna be pretty.

she has always been FINE in the dark : ))

jim

[JmuRiz]

Question, are you keeping the black body color or going back to orange (my vote)?

[jimkelly]

no budget for PRETTY and this time - so it will leave charles city as hideous as when it arrived : ))

i'm torn on color - stock signal orange is probably the right thing to do - but i like silver, black, and various shades of orange as well ???

when it is time for paint - i'll be also facing a big bill for all weather rubber as well, and maybe front and rear fiberglass bumpers.

at this moment - i am leaning towards this look ...

jim

[Eric_Shea]

That's Blood Orange (Tangerine).

I like the look but it would be equally as cool with your stock color.

[jimkelly]

i'm coming around to agreeing with you on this. i like the painted sails and smoothed/painted top. tire size seems to make or break our cars from a look standpoint. thanks, jim

That's Blood Orange (Tangerine).

I like the look but it would be equally as cool with your stock color.

[hot_shoe914]

no budget for PRETTY and this time - so it will leave charles city as hideous as when it arrived : ))

i'm torn on color - stock signal orange is probably the right thing to do - but i like silver, black, and various shades of orange as well ???

when it is time for paint - i'll be also facing a big bill for all weather rubber as well, and maybe front and rear fiberglass bumpers.

at this moment - i am leaning towards this look ...

jim

I have a set of wheels like that I will sell. Still have the original factory finish.

[jimkelly]

thanks : )
i have 4 lug fuch on both my cars
i think at some point i will go for fully polished

[stewteral]

anything from resto design needed - or is this all patch work?

how many hours are you estimating for this : )

she is gonna be pretty.

she has always been FINE in the dark : ))

jim

Hi Jim,

No one seem to be answering your question: Patch or replace the rusted sheet metal.

The answer depends on you skills with forming sheet metal and welding it to the good sections in the frame.

For my '73 restoration car, I bought a cheap sheet metal brake from Harbor freight and bent mild steel to duplicate rusted section of the floorpan. Welding it to the existing floor was tricky, but turned out well after a lot of grinding.

So from my point of view, patch and repair. Since replacement parts are SO expensive, I'm OK with less than PERFECT patches as they will be under carpet.

As for time required, it is hard to predict, but plan on A LOT! It will be done when it is done.....CORRECTLY!

BTW: your photo of the red/orange 914 worried me: the car's paint looked great but it is severely lowered and thus, SCREWED up the Suspension performance at BOTH ends of the car.

Please do NOT lower your car very much, EXPECIALLY with a V8 engine. The tall mass of the V8 makes the car roll more and exaggerates the limitations of the suspension design.

My V8 finally handles GREAT after years of chassis development going very stiff in the rear + swaybar....and it sits at 5-1/2" ride height, measuring from the under chassis "bumps"

Best of luck,
Terry

[jimkelly]

terry - thanks for those comments - behind the scenes : ) we decided to go with patches. i know some move the spindle location on the front struts and cfr offers a rear lowering kit as well - but for the street - too low is no good.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/chassis.htm#Raised Rear Pickup Points Kit

[scotty b]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[jimkelly]

scott

now that is what i call progress : )

i am having serious withdrawls - yet - i am stoked (california speak for happy) knowing that this damn car is going to GO better than ever and STOP better than ever.

this 40 year old car, full of 40 year old parts - has finally had its long neglected physical and the doctor has prescribed a lot of long overdue medicine : )

i have dreamed about this car since i was a kid - i am gonna drive the shit out if it knowing it will be safe and knowing all rust issues have been professionally taken care of.

see pic of empty parking space - it is hard to look at each day : (

jim

[VaccaRabite]

I love watching a Scotty Fix It thread.

Zach

[914.SBC]

Just wondering ... and I don't think anyone asked but what about the conversion was done so wrong? you should post up picks of certain aspects of the conversion that are being redone and give reasoning as to why things are being changed....

The cheap sons o bitches wanna know ...

If I did another one, I would do a full roller engine. My first engine was tough to time (can't get a timing light in there) and the cam went flat in a brand new engine. Built a remote starter stand and then timed the engine and broke it in outside the car. Then installed it. So I would at least think about a full roller set up. It is much more expensive but you dont have to worry about breaking-in a roller set up engine.

[stewteral]

terry - thanks for those comments - behind the scenes : ) we decided to go with patches. i know some move the spindle location on the front struts and cfr offers a rear lowering kit as well - but for the street - too low is no good.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/chassis.htm#Raised Rear Pickup Points Kit

HI Jim,

Bravo X 2 for you:

-1st for committing to doing the welding and patching work. From one of your pics
it is obvious you can do a very good job!

-2nd for NOT lowering the car , since I'm always preaching on how that screws up
the "used section" of the camber arc. Again, my track 914 V8 handles GREAT
with a 5-1/2" ride height (measuring and the under chassis "bumps")

So best of luck and keep those photos coming!

BTW: I am going crazy with my Harbor Freight POWDER COATING SYSTEM and recommend it to everyone. While I paid $65, I just saw a lower price of $60 for the system. Since I'm doing a lot of Fab Work, I find it amazing to spray and cure
a part with an indestructable coating and have it ready to use in 30 minutes. Before, like you, I was spraying primer, WAIT to DRY, spray color, WAIT to DRY and have it take a week before I could bolt on a part (while be careful to not scratch the still SOFT paint). Then after a few track days, the paint is chipped badly.

Powder Coating takes a bit of learning , but it's not a long process. Harbor Freight has Flat Black, Red, White and bright Yellow in stock. For an incredible range of colors and coating type, Google Powder coat.

Another choice would be using the services of fellow 914 owner and Powder Coater
Barry Gallitin in NC at diehardcamaroguy@yahoo.com ....From photos I've seen he does very good work.

Best of Luck,
Terry

[jimkelly]

i can't take the credit for the lovely metal fab and welding work : )

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

i am a driver : )

not a fixer : (

jim

[TargaToy]

Scotty, what did you spray over the newly fab'd metal inside the fender?

[matthepcat]

Looks like rubberized undercoating rattle can to me.

[scotty b]

Scotty, what did you spray over the newly fab'd metal inside the fender?

Primer, seam sealer, black paint, then spray can undercoating. Same thing on the patch I put in the inside.

[jimkelly]

now that all the RTV is gone - maybe i need to commemorate it : )