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> Moving Fuel Pump Up Front, Best way to mount?
7TPorsh
post Oct 10 2011, 11:58 AM
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1970 914/4 with dual webers

The DAPO did a number on the car when it was converted to carbs. Seems he/she? removed the plastic lines in the tunnel and replaced them with one cloth covered rubber line. No leaks but I smell like gas every time I drive the car and the cabin stinks like raw fumes. I'm guessing gas is evaporating through the line in the cabin?

I also have a Facet pump mounted to the engine tin passenger side next to the heat outlet. Recently on days over 80 degrees, the car is fuel starved after 30 minutes of driving. I shut it down and wait a few minutes, starts up then dies again. i have to wait at least 30 minutes to get another 10 minutes of driving.

It looks like the gas is getting hot and bubbling so the pump is pushing air. Can't tell. Just could be a bad pump that doesn't like heating up.

So I have decided to get a rotary pump, I am looking at this Carter...right one?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecat...26-P60504-72488

So here are my questions seeking guidance:

1. - It seems I don't have the steering cover in place since I can see my rack. Did 1970 have a cover since I don't see any mounting holes. Do I need it?

2. - How does the pump mount? Do I just drill a hole or two?

3. - Planning on getting a pre-bent feed line from Dave? (Rotary guy?) and pulling out my rubber hose. A couple "mechanics" I know are recommending that I run a stainless line outside the car along the indention of the floor plan since all new cars have their lines outside the cabin; then maybe weld a cover over the length of it...any thoughts?

Any pics of the steering cover, mounts, mounted fuel pump would be greatly appreciated.

thx, Gary
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Cap'n Krusty
post Oct 10 2011, 12:48 PM
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Those "mechanics" are idiots. Do I need to tell you not to listen to them? Chris Foley sells the right pipe(s) to use. You ALWAYS mount the pump lower than the bottom of the tank. Make sure the pump puts out the correct pressure for your carbs. Lotsa folks insulate the pump from the body. It cuts down on noise, which can become irritating.
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SirAndy
post Oct 10 2011, 12:56 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Oct 10 2011, 11:48 AM) *
Those "mechanics" are idiots.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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7TPorsh
post Oct 10 2011, 01:01 PM
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Had a feeling these guys are cracked...still may be safer than what I have now but not going there.

I think best place may be nextto the rack but can't find any pics of what it looks like mounted.

This is a little hard to figure out since I don't have a pump in hand.

Any pics on the mounting? Am I looking at the correct pump?
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clapeza
post Oct 10 2011, 01:07 PM
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Tangerine Racing has the kit you need:

http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessFu...rsion%20Package

Pump, fuel line, mounting bracket, hoses, and the expertise to do it right.
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kconway
post Oct 10 2011, 01:27 PM
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CB Performance has the pump you need and the correct AN fittings if you want to go to fitttings on the bottom of the tank. Rotary guy has the SS fuel lines and he's local.
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=577
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1709


Kev
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stugray
post Oct 10 2011, 01:46 PM
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When I replaced my fuel line in the tunnel, I just went to autozone and got one 5-foot straight piece of 3/8" brake line (not stainless).

When I pulled out the old plastic lines, I pulled a piece of electrical 12Ga wire with it.

I then used this wire to pull the new line through.

You can make it from back to front with a perfectly straight piece.

I only bent the last few inches at the front and only ~ 15 degrees.

I used a flaring tool and 6AN fittings on each end.

To get the flare & fitting on the front it was a little tricky:
I cut the existing flare off the end that was to be the front.

I fished the line through the firewall, then pulled it up through the stickshift hole.

I then put the flare nut & the "flare mandrel" (dont know what it is called.
Then I flared the end with the flare tool.
Then I was able to push the flare nut through the front hole.

This was all done with the engine & gas tank out so access was easy.

I picked the holley rotary pump & regulator.

Stu
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7TPorsh
post Oct 10 2011, 02:43 PM
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QUOTE(clapeza @ Oct 10 2011, 12:07 PM) *

Tangerine Racing has the kit you need:

http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessFu...rsion%20Package

Pump, fuel line, mounting bracket, hoses, and the expertise to do it right.


This is a little pricey for me

QUOTE(kconway @ Oct 10 2011, 12:27 PM) *

CB Performance has the pump you need and the correct AN fittings if you want to go to fitttings on the bottom of the tank. Rotary guy has the SS fuel lines and he's local.
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=577
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1709

Kev


I am hoping to come to G&R and get a line from Rotary; he's usually there. I am guessing I can push the line through even with the 15 degree bend and the engine in the car?

I think I need the 3.5psi pump? CB shows $20 more than my RockAuto link. Same pump? Do I need these fittings? One outlet on the tank is plugged, I don't think the other is threaded.

I was thinking of using good hose and clamps.

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GeorgeRud
post Oct 10 2011, 03:22 PM
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Be sure to use fuel hose that is rated for ethanol laced fuel! Since the pressures used in carved cars, you don't really need the high pressure hose, and the fuel pump should be mounted in front, under the tank in the same area as the steering rack. That way, any leaks will be under the car and not in the trunk. A steel (or aluminum) fuel line should be a good idea where possible, and prebent kits are available from listed vendors.

Use some rubber isolation mounts, and the small rotary pump that CB sells ( a Piermont?) works quite well with the carbs.

There should be a cover over the steering rack, it mounts with the same bolts that hold the front suspension assembly.
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gothspeed
post Oct 10 2011, 05:19 PM
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QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Oct 10 2011, 01:43 PM) *


This is a little pricey for me



Here is one a tad cheaper than the rock auto carter.

http://www.autopartsexpress.com/searchitem...764_a_7c3401378
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Cap'n Krusty
post Oct 10 2011, 05:27 PM
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The sweetness of the price may well be lost in the sour taste you get while sitting beside the road waiting for a tow truck ......................

Buy the Pierberg. Use hose that fits BOTH fittings well before clamping.

The Cap'n
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kconway
post Oct 10 2011, 06:27 PM
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Carter rotary pump in the classified section right now.
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Krieger
post Oct 10 2011, 06:31 PM
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FYI Tangerine and CB kits are the Carter rotary.
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Krieger
post Oct 10 2011, 06:38 PM
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By the time you piece together your own "kit" with all the right parts you will have spent a few hours of your time chasing down evererything and maybe saved $15. Buy Chris/Tangerines well thought out kit and get it done!
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76-914
post Oct 10 2011, 06:40 PM
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30R9 Goodyear fuel hose is resistant. Look for the black inner wall. It is the latest development from Veyance Tech. Capt, I could swear that the stock pump location in my '76 is not lower than the bottom of the tank. Now I have to look to be sure. I got a set of his fuel lines for my '73 and am happy with the product and support service. You'll save at least 20 when buying at the G n R feast. Get Roberts rubber grommets and other accessories. Another few bucks and it all new.
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7TPorsh
post Oct 11 2011, 09:31 AM
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QUOTE(Krieger @ Oct 10 2011, 05:38 PM) *

By the time you piece together your own "kit" with all the right parts you will have spent a few hours of your time chasing down evererything and maybe saved $15. Buy Chris/Tangerines well thought out kit and get it done!



The kit is $200+; I can probably get the pump, filter, line and clamps for around $100 so that's more than $15.

Oh BYW, my facet is located on the engine tin so probably about 8 or 9 inches higher than the bottom of the tank. No issues until the weather stared heating up.

Holly, Carter and Piermont are all mentioned yay and nay in the search threads. Even the Facet gets good remarks here and there.

So I think consensus is the Carter is best value (sorry Cap.n) so I'll probably order it for the $35; gotta be better than my facet.

Still i would like to see how this mounts next to the rack. I see images of racks without pumps and pumps in the front trunk. I don;t want to cut, just drill a hole or two and be done with it.
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kconway
post Oct 11 2011, 10:17 AM
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I just did this and asked the same questions about mounting location. I crawled up under the car with pump in hand and could not see where I could mount it and the filter under the steering rack cover without blocking access to the lines at the bottom of the tank. I ended up mounting it in the trunk after being warned about fuel leaks but went there anyway (I much rather know when I have a leaking fuel pump anyway) Take a look at this thread:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=146833

Kev
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gothspeed
post Oct 11 2011, 10:41 AM
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One can ALWAYS spend more money and get something that may or may not be 'better'. I have been left by the side of the road by many 'high' end, top of the line parts. It was my understanding that carter pumps were decent quality and many people use them with good results. That said ANY part can fail. Pierburg is a good company but even they have source factories in China.

http://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/CN/pierburg.html
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tod914
post Oct 11 2011, 11:01 AM
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I'll post some shots of mine this evening for you. Relocated by the Porsche dealer back in 75. Also installed some custom bent tubing, to minimize the amount of line needed. It's a 3 port pump, but should be helpfull for what you want to achieve.
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mark21742
post Oct 11 2011, 01:45 PM
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Another option is the dark green metal line....$20 for a roll of it and you can almost wrap it around itself without it kinking, just put your fittings on and flare the ends
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