Converting to a 914-6, Back yard Bob's (Dan's) way |
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Converting to a 914-6, Back yard Bob's (Dan's) way |
thomasotten |
Aug 10 2004, 03:41 PM
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#61
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,546 Joined: 16-November 03 From: San Antonio, Texas Member No.: 1,349 |
Brad:
I thought you were a big 6 guy? You like 4s better? |
J P Stein |
Aug 10 2004, 07:02 PM
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#62
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(trekkor @ Aug 10 2004, 01:27 PM) Oh and BTW, I'll never take TTOD in a street legal 4 or 6. Don't know if anyone has? : Trekkor Of course you do.....but it didn't happen at a GGR AX, so it ain't real (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I was more impressed with Doug Skinner's driving my car to 2, 2nd OA finishes last year at SCCA events.....Nuthin' compared to GGR, tho. |
Root_Werks |
Aug 11 2004, 08:20 AM
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#63
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
All the teeners on this BBS crack me up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) It is so cool how one small statement can lead into a large disscussion thread about TToD's in 914's. That rocks!
So anyway, I will have to take better pictures of this with my regular camera. Seems my $25 digital one is not up to the task. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) So here is one of the shots (terrible I know) of my home made bell crank throttle linkage. I will post better pictures later on. Lets look a little at what a did and why I did it that way: I started out finding I one ball and two cups. What I mean by that is one little throttle linkage ball and two of the snap on cups that thread onto throttle linkage rod. I also went down to the hardware store and purchased 3/16 rod for $1.99 which I used about half of it for this job. Oooooh, big money huh? What do Bell Cranks cost? $300? It took me an hour to make this one. I promise better pitcures will come. In this picture if you can see it (no flash, DERRRR!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) Is the completed set up. I used the factory 914-4 cable....oh, get how I hooked it up, I used the cable clamp system off of one of the heater valves, so there is one other part needed. Notice the cable comes from above the CV and is even above the rod..... If you can see it, again sorry about that. I do this to ease the pull and help keep it simple and progressive. When I made the pivot for this, I made sure my pull was equal for both cable and rod. Attached image(s) |
Root_Werks |
Aug 11 2004, 08:32 AM
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#64
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
So I welded 2 small pieces of steel brackets together. One 90 to hold the cable welded onto a flat bar with holes drilled into it to mount the pivot to. I think you can see how I mounted all this on the trans. Simple, just a few brackets laying around the garage did the trick. Each one of these I have done has been a little different since I have never used the same parts to make it. Just what is lying around. WHich means this is a simple item to make. Don't think about it that much, you are just changing the direction of a pull, simple. Here is another sucky shot of the rod I made that goes up to the carb's. That's it, the rest up there in the engine bay is all stock. You can sort of make out the rod below the cable, but both still above the CV.
No it doesn't rub on anything and yes, the throttle form inside the car is smooth. I will probably take my unit back off the car and take pictures of it. My wife and I drove the 914 around last night for the first time as a 914-6, so I was sort of excited to get things just on and done. But for the sake of readers on this thread, I will remove it and get more details on it. Attached image(s) |
Root_Werks |
Aug 11 2004, 08:43 AM
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#65
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
So here is yet another sucky shot of the rod I made coming up to the carbs. What I did with the rod was thread one end about 1.5" down the rod using a 5x1.0 tap(or is it die?) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Screwed on a little nut and the cup, snapped it on the carb end, held up the pivoted linkage I made until it was about where I wanted it, marked the rod. I cut the rod, threaded the other end and presto, done. About the only factors in the length of the rod were how long the cable was so I wouldn't have to modify that. You want to use a factory 914-4 cable. They are cheap and you can get them almost anywhere. Plus I have tons and tons of adjustment room.
Attached image(s) |
nomore4 |
Aug 11 2004, 08:53 AM
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#66
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Member Group: Members Posts: 106 Joined: 15-April 03 From: Northfield, NJ Member No.: 576 |
You need to make a better camera (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Root_Werks |
Aug 11 2004, 08:54 AM
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#67
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
So lets switch gears a little and talk about the wiring. Again, keeping things simple lets do the charging system first. Talk about easy and straight forward. I love this stuff! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) You have your one large terminal on the back of the alt which you can run down to your starter terminal (the big one) I belive that one is B+. Then you have DF, D- and D+ ( Think that is them?) Anyway, you just have to match them up to the terminals on the 914 regulator, they are the same. BUUUT, you want to use the circut board so your idiot light will work. One trick on this one. Take the voltage reg off and you would think it would be:
........| DF | D- Say this one is on the reg you pulled off. ........| D+ ........| D+ | D- Well, the two terms are flipped on the circut board. Nice huh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Oh, here is a shot so you can sort of see the breather hose. What did I use? 1 1/16" thick soft oil line from the industrail supply store and one of their 90degree plastic bends. So just like the factory, I have a short piece that comes off the filler neck to the 90 and then the longer piece that goes down to the block. Easy stuff! Attached image(s) |
Root_Werks |
Aug 11 2004, 09:23 AM
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#68
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Driving impressions:
Well this is only a 2.2T, but what a great sound and what a great flat torque curve! I love it! I still have tuning to do for sure. This engine and the carbs sat around for a while. But it runs strong and burns really clean. I noticed while out driving I wound up getting my shiffter bar off a few degrees. Luckily there is adjustment for that, so no problem there. I have to touch my lock out to keep it in the 2-3 plane when it should be only the R-1 plane. Just need to loosen up the conections inside the car and move things over a bit. SHould take care of that. It is only slight too, I was probably off 2 degrees when I did the shift bar. That is what I get for not building a jig. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) I noticed my oil lines are tight and dry, so another good sign. We put a quick 5 miles on the car, pulled over and fiddled with carb adjustment a few times. Idles decent, runs good. One thing we noticed while driving (windshield trim is still off) was the cracked windsield is only glued on the lower corners! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) If I pushed a little with my hand, I could get the whole thing to tilt out! Yikes! Well, I thought we would be able to wait until after our Whistler trip to do this one, looks like that will have to be replaced now. Now onto other little things. This car sat since 1998, so the brake pedal is stiff. You have to pull it up with your toes. But hey, a whole week to go and it runs! WOO HOO! Everything else is small stuff. If anyone has questions, please ask. I will post more pictures (better ones) and happily go into detail about anything I might have missed. The cost? Well, without going into any deals anyone might have given me on anything,,,,, including the car, engine, paint, fender flares, tires/wheels, conversions parts, but not labor: Just under $6000. After the windshield, I will probably push that $6000 mark. By making most of my own parts, I saved over $1200 and it would have been more if I had the time to make my own mount and mod a set of 911 headers. But hey, time is money and if you don't have time, you will have to cough up a little money to do something like this. All in all, I would rather have this 914-6 for $6k than any 911 for $10k. But that is just me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
JWest |
Aug 11 2004, 09:50 AM
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#69
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 6-January 03 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 97 Region Association: None |
How did you hook up the suction line on the oil cooler?
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blabla914 |
Aug 11 2004, 10:32 AM
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#70
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I like primer Group: Members Posts: 321 Joined: 1-March 04 From: Connecticut Member No.: 1,740 Region Association: None |
I'm glad to see someone else taking this approach to the six conversion. You don't need to spend a mint.
I too made my own tin, but I "kit-bashed" 914-4 and 911 tin. I figured I had both sets of tin and a mig welder. Screw it. It takes a bit of time. Brad it right, $400 for a fiberglass tin set is not a bad deal. I too used the velios tank. Works great. I had to modify the inner edge of my rear quarter slightly to clear the fitting. No biggie. It doesn't leak. Brad is also correct about the exhuast hanger. I traced a friends 2.0L hanger and cut it out of .125" aluminum. It bolted directly up to my Bursch headers. I got impatient and bought the pelican throttle linkage. This is the biggest piece of crap ever. I ended up making my own bell crank from a 911 unit. I made a pivot mount and used the 911 actuation rod. Yes! just mark a 911 flywheel and you're done. I have a 2.0L E motor. Stock 914 clutch with 30k on it when installed works fine, even with 205-50 khumo's on 7" wide rims. Making your own shift rod from a side shift -4 mount is a piece of cake. Bend as necessary (be careful it's tubing!), file the diameter down to shorten, and drill a new hole for the set screw. Works great. One thing I have to disagree on is the Patrick mount. I autocross my car agressively, but I don't abuse it. I also autocross on some pretty rough sites. My side shift -4 front engine mounts lasted me for four autocross seasons and my dad is still using them in his car. The Patrick moly mount lasted exactly 4 autocross events before it started coming apart bending my tin, destroying my clutch and throttle cables, and bending my shift rod. I welded the mount up and made some reinforcements, but the flex still resulted in a bent shift rod. I can post some pictures of the Patrick mount carnage and what I tried to fix it tonight. I gave up and bought the Rich Thompson mount. It's $400, it takes a bit to install, but it rocks. The biggest downside to the six is when it breaks, it costs quite a bit of money to fix. However, 2270 or 2316 Type 4's aren't cheap either. Kelly |
Root_Werks |
Aug 11 2004, 01:18 PM
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#71
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(James Adams @ Aug 11 2004, 07:50 AM) How did you hook up the suction line on the oil cooler? Ah yes, the cooler. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) I was going to wait to get some decent pics of that, but here goes (I will be waiting for the abuse after telling people how I do this one): I grab my sawzall (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) and oh yeah, you guess it, cut back about 1" from the threaded fitting and then cut the threaded fitting off. So all you are left with is an unsupported aluminum tube coming out the bottom of the cooler. Then I simply slip over the suction hose, 2 hose clamps (don't even have to be that tight). Then I use a padded seel bracket (like a wire loom holder thingie) and support the line at the body of the car. This almost completely eliminates the line tugging around on that un-supported cooler tube. I have done it 5 times now? And never had any troubles with it. I know it is not the "Right" way to do it, but it seems to work just fine. I have logged tens of thousands of miles on conversions done that way. I think the factory tube is just strong is all. Okay, you can let me have it for that one. I am ready, slam me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/spank.gif) |
mack914 |
Aug 18 2004, 08:00 AM
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#72
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Member Group: Members Posts: 387 Joined: 5-July 04 From: Toledo, Oh Member No.: 2,306 |
Please post more pics of shift rod and carb linkage fabs. Clearer anyway.
Mack |
Root_Werks |
Aug 18 2004, 09:07 AM
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#73
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(mack914 @ Aug 18 2004, 06:00 AM) Please post more pics of shift rod and carb linkage fabs. Clearer anyway. Mack I promise I will, Last night I adjusted the valves and then the carbs. The engine has sat for a little while, so the usual needed to be done. Also this 914 sat since 1998 so many things have "Sit sindrome" which required attention. This was a project of start and don't stop until it is done. Friday is our trip to Whistler so I have been working daily to shake out any problems. There have been some too, but nothing major. But things that would have put a stop to the trip! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) So I have been spending my time on those items. When we return I plan to post better shots of my linkage for throttle and shifting. Both are very smooth. I will also post dimensions for the throttle bell crank and rod I made. I will probably borrow someone else's camera though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
Sammy |
Aug 18 2004, 10:35 AM
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#74
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. Group: Members Posts: 1,190 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Orange, Ca Member No.: 178 |
All this home made engineering and back yard fabrication makes me sick.
The only way to do something like this is to throw a great big pile of money at someone and have them do it for you! Oh wait, I just remembered who I am and what I've done to Porsches over the past several years. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) Seriously, I am impressed. I've always admired those who can turn true imagination into a solution, you are obviously one of 'those people". |
michel richard |
Aug 18 2004, 11:54 AM
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#75
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,291 Joined: 22-July 03 From: Longueuil, Québec Member No.: 936 |
I know you said not to think about it too much, but could you give approximate dimensions and angles for the throttle capble bracket ?
What do you use for the cable itself ? Michel Richard |
Root_Werks |
Aug 18 2004, 12:52 PM
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#76
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(michel richard @ Aug 18 2004, 09:54 AM) I know you said not to think about it too much, but could you give approximate dimensions and angles for the throttle capble bracket ? What do you use for the cable itself ? Michel Richard Well, before I can take better pictures, let me butcher one up a little. In this picture, you can sort of make out the pieces I made. The mounting bar is pointed out in red and a rough outline made up with the three holes I drilled for it. 2 for mounting to the transmition and one the crank pivots on. The yellow arrow is the stock 914-4 cable, not modified at all. The green arrow is my rod I made for $1.99. Heck, so far this is my best bell crank. Maybe I will just crank out a few and offer them up for sale for like $50? Even with buying the little "cups", it is only about $15 in parts. Then I decided to express my artistic side. What do you think? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Attached image(s) |
dflesburg |
Aug 19 2004, 10:01 AM
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#77
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,720 Joined: 6-April 04 From: Warm and Cheerful Centerville Ohio Member No.: 1,896 Region Association: None |
Would you be interested in making a paper pattern of your wooden sheet metal jigs?
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Root_Werks |
Aug 19 2004, 10:16 AM
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#78
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(dflesburg @ Aug 19 2004, 08:01 AM) Would you be interested in making a paper pattern of your wooden sheet metal jigs? Sure. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Nothing I will do before my trip this weekend. But I have where to bend the tabs, drill the holes and depth of things. I don't mind doing that at all. I also want to post more pictures of my tin installed in a 914. It really turns out nice for $20 worth of sheet metal. I have been doing extra testing on my latest bell crank for the throttle and am just loving this one I did. So I want to take it all back appart, make another one to make sure I can do it again, install the new one, test it and maybe sell a few for cheap. They are fun to make. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
mack914 |
Aug 19 2004, 12:35 PM
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#79
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Member Group: Members Posts: 387 Joined: 5-July 04 From: Toledo, Oh Member No.: 2,306 |
I would be interested in purchasinglinkage kit.
Mack |
Root_Werks |
Aug 19 2004, 02:40 PM
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#80
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,332 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(mack914 @ Aug 19 2004, 10:35 AM) I would be interested in purchasinglinkage kit. Mack When I get back, I will see about putting a handful of them together and offering them to fellow teeners. I like this one a lot and would like to get some out there and get feedback from other teeners. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif) |
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