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> Wanna run vented rotors on the rear?, Wanna have a parking brake, too?
Brad Roberts
post Aug 27 2004, 12:05 AM
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I ask the same question:

Why do you *think* you need vented rotors in the rear ?? Until somebody shows me real live test results from them overcooking their stock rear solid rotors.... NO need. I have NEVER even seen a 914 racer use a temp probe to check rotor temp.. cant imagine ANY street car needing anything more than a solid rear rotor.

450hp/450lbft of torque STOCK Vipers had solid rear rotors with Reliant K car rear calipers on the rear.. (the car has nearly 50/50 weight distribution) granted they went to vented rears when the power went up to 500hp.

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Brad Roberts
post Aug 27 2004, 12:08 AM
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Good eye (again) Aaron.. Timo tell us about your drop links (in another thread).

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Aaron Cox
post Aug 27 2004, 12:13 AM
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they look to be hollow and adjustable.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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fiid
post Aug 27 2004, 12:53 AM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Aug 26 2004, 10:05 PM)
Why do you *think* you need vented rotors in the rear ?? Until somebody shows me real live test results from them overcooking their stock rear solid rotors.... NO need. I have NEVER even seen a 914 racer use a temp probe to check rotor temp.. cant imagine ANY street car needing anything more than a solid rear rotor.

I agree. I get my (very small) wisdom from looking at the pads on the back of mueller's 911. They are tiny. Can't see all that much heat being generated there.

SO the question is this:

How do you get your brake bias correct with the stock rear calipers?

Also; it would be awefully nice not to have to adjust them.
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Andyrew
post Aug 27 2004, 01:08 AM
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The reason for me to use it is for the rotor.. Not the venting itself..

It came on my setup... I like the idea.. I just need more pad (read new).. Especially with the v8...
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Jeroen
post Aug 27 2004, 04:16 AM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Aug 27 2004, 08:05 AM)
Why do you *think* you need vented rotors in the rear ??

Dunno if I need 'm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

IIRC, you said to run SC or Carrera 3.2 rear calipers with the 964/944turbo fronts for a decent bias

So basically it's YOUR idea, not mine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Tell me I don't need to, and it'll save me a drum brake conversion...

On another note... anyone used a 911 (or similar) handbrake lever mounted on the center console?
I think it would be easier to do that than get custom cables
Or show me how Andy modded the 911 cables

cheers,

Jeroen
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andys
post Aug 27 2004, 09:52 AM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 26 2004, 03:59 PM)
i don't know, seems overkill. i just used the 911 rotors, calipers and handbreak setup. all bolts up to the 914 with just a bit of grinding, took me less than 1/2 hours for both arms, bolts right on, works like a charm ...

tip: use 911 handbrake cables ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Andy

How did you accomplish this with just a little grinding? At a minimum, the 911 P-brake requires a *stay* to keep the shoes from rotating. Did you use the 911 P-brake lever with those 911 cables?

Andy
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Eric_Shea
post Aug 27 2004, 10:07 AM
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Check this thread out from last year:

911 Handbrake Conversion

I have yet to get to the 911 handbrake issue but I am close. I built the suspension last year for another tub. I decided not to use that tub but my new tub is basically ready for this.

I will use a 911 handbrake on the center tunnel as some of the factory GT rally cars had. I had the extra pieces laying around (911 e-brakes, extra handbrake mechanism).

The reason I went vented was simple. I'm using an S-Caliper up front and I wanted to balance that caliper out with the proper one the factory used on the rear which was a 911 rear m-caliper. The 911 m-caliper is set up with spacers for vented rotors. I figured it wouldn't hurt anything to have them on the car. The upside is the vented rotors for a 911 now drop right on and they're quite a bit less expensive than the one-off 914-6 solid rotor.

I too would love to know Andy's 911 cable secret... as I'm fast approaching the install. I will be going center tunnel as explained before and I'm about to weld in a couple tubes and cut for the handbrake lever. Being center mounted I might be fine with the equal length cables but...

Andy any advise? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Aug 27 2004, 10:15 AM
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QUOTE
How did you accomplish this with just a little grinding?


The bearing housing only needs about 2mm ground off its outer perimeter for the 911 "hat" to fit. The bearing retainer plate is then left off and the 911 assembly bolts right on. The shield mount needs to be ground off as well.

QUOTE
At a minimum, the 911 P-brake requires a *stay* to keep the shoes from rotating.


I'm not sure the "stay" keeps the shoes from rotating (I'm sure it helps with that issue) but it does offer a point for leverage when pulling the cable. Imagine a 12:00 O'clock and a 6:00 O'clock position. The cable is a 6:00 and the stay is at 12:00. Now imagine a clam shell opening and closing. The stay being the hindge or a pivot point for the shoes to expand outward. And yes... it needs to be welded to the 911 assembly. Check my link above and the picture of Timo's assembly. That was a 5 minute job using some metal stock trimmed down to 40mm.
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SirAndy
post Aug 27 2004, 11:09 AM
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QUOTE(andys @ Aug 27 2004, 08:52 AM)
How did you accomplish this with just a little grinding? At a minimum, the 911 P-brake requires a *stay* to keep the shoes from rotating.

ok, i lied! you also need another 5 minutes to tack-weld the spacer between the shoes. forgot all about that ...

i'll post pics when i get the stuff back from the powder-coater. (hello brad (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif) )

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) Andy
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ClayPerrine
post Aug 27 2004, 02:01 PM
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My setup is designed to be 100% BOLT ON.. NO MACHINING OR WELDING REQUIRED if you are using calipers that use the original 3" bolt spacing. The pictures in the thread are about 4 years old. The brackets are 6061T6 1/2 thick aluminum, machined on a CNC mill. I set it up and tried to get some interest, but no one wanted it. It uses a Wilwood mechanical spot caliper. It will work with 24mm rotors by purchasing an extra spacer block for each caliper from Wilwood when you buy the caliper. What is not shown in the pictures is the rod that attaches to the caliper and links the park brake cable with the caliper.

I got a bunch of calls from a guy why tried to buy the CNC codes for making it. The next thing I know, Renegade has a similar caliper mount using a Wilwood billet spot caliper with their logo on it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)


I still have the prototype set that is in the picture, and I even ran it on my wife's 914 to test it. It held better than the stock calipers. The only drawback is that the caliper has a tendency to rattle.

Turns out that I can't use it on my car, I am using 944 turbo calipers and 24mm carerra rotors, so I have to make a new mount for the caliper. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


Anyway, if someone wants a set of brackets, contact me. If I get enough interest, I can run a bunch of brackets off the mill. I am NOT supplying the calipers or any hardware. Just the brackets. You have to get the bolts and spacers for the mounts.
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Jeroen
post Aug 27 2004, 05:10 PM
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Any specific years for the 911 backingplate / handbrake setup?
Ones from a steel 911 trailing arm (are they different from the ones used on an aluminium trailing arm)?

cheers,

Jeroen
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Eric_Shea
post Aug 27 2004, 05:15 PM
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Up to 73...

74 has different spacing and will not fit without opening up the mounting holes.

So... yes, the steel arms should net you what you want.
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Jeroen
post Aug 27 2004, 05:23 PM
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thanks!
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