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> Alignment specs for a 1970 914-6, What's the hot setup for autox???
nynone4
post Sep 7 2004, 04:08 PM
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I'm getting ready to set up an appointment to have the 914-6 aligned. What specs should I be running for autocross and occasional street driving? Any racers out there want to share the measurements you're using to go fast?

Thanks!
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Aaron Cox
post Sep 7 2004, 04:10 PM
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do a search (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

theres 2 or 3 good threads
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TimT
post Sep 7 2004, 04:13 PM
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I run as much camber as I can get, as much castor, front toe, 0 deg to a touch of toe out. rear toe about 1/16th toe in... at least thats what I have in the car now
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KenH
post Sep 7 2004, 08:58 PM
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1.5 to 2 degrees of Negative Camber front & rear, or as negative as you can and still get reasonable tire ware for street use.

Front Toe close to 0, rear 0 to 15' toe-in. Be sure the F & R Toes are equal on both sides.

Ken
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J P Stein
post Sep 8 2004, 06:53 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If my car is any indicator, you'll not get more than about 1 deg negative camber up front......and that's with the car lowered about as far as the shock travel will permit.

Some tires like the 2 deg negative (or so). Rspec Kuhmos and Hoosiers certainly do and that is what this is all about.....what the tires like.
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jmargush
post Sep 8 2004, 08:18 AM
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I have heard before to run half a degree less camber up front than in the rear, any one agree with this?

Or can you run as much neg camber in the front as you can and set the rear so you still have clearance between the inside of the tire and fender well?
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J P Stein
post Sep 8 2004, 08:50 AM
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QUOTE(jmargush @ Sep 8 2004, 06:18 AM)
I have heard before to run half a degree less camber up front than in the rear, any one agree with this?

Or can you run as much neg camber in the front as you can and set the rear so you still have clearance between the inside of the tire and fender well?

You're into suspension tuning here. IMO, there are no hard & fast rules.....just some general WAGs to get you in the ball park. Alignment is dependent on your spring/shock/tire/usage.....yada.

2 deg negative is gonna wear out the inside tires edge on a street car in short order. AXers don't care cause they'll be lucky to get a season out of their stickeybuns. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

More or less camber front to rear depends on what the tire temps say......with a few wild cards thrown in.

For instance:
The insides of my rear tires are hotter than the outsides....
a *bit* of wheel spin accounts for that....*I think*. The fronts are even across but not as hot as the rears. I'm STILL working on tire pressures in an attempt to get more heat into the fronts. Dropping the fronts pressure causes more heat but turn in suffers till the heat comes in.....and sometimes the heat doesn't come. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Toe. 0 toe in the rear is fine for a AXer. Take it to the track and you may discover (as I did) "rear steer". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)
Stock front and rear toe is best for a street car.....usless you drive on extra wide lanes.

What I do to my AX only rig does not translate to a casual AXer/street driven car. How much do you want to compromise you street driven car to be an AX hero?
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Trekkor
post Sep 8 2004, 09:02 AM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Sep 8 2004, 07:50 AM)
What I do to my AX only rig does not translate to a casual AXer/street driven car. How much do you want to compromise you street driven car to be an AX hero?



Thank you, JP

My car will always be streetable.
I have yet to get that "competition allignment" I "need".

KT
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J P Stein
post Sep 8 2004, 09:07 AM
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QUOTE(trekkor @ Sep 8 2004, 07:02 AM)



Thank you, JP

My car will always be streetable.


KT

Wanna bet? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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