Megasquirt Project, .....IT RUNS ! Options

[crash914]

What mods did you have to do to go with the ls2 drivers? I am currently adding the ignition part to my car, I have been running fuel only.

my system is pretty old also, version 2.2 MSII.

my ve's run around 65 at idle, but I have a pretty hot cam and high compression. I am also planning on adding resistor plugs to see if it eliminates some sensor signal noise..I wonder if using the ls2 coils adds noise?

[toon1]

What mods did you have to do to go with the ls2 drivers? I am currently adding the ignition part to my car, I have been running fuel only.

my system is pretty old also, version 2.2 MSII.

my ve's run around 65 at idle, but I have a pretty hot cam and high compression. I am also planning on adding resistor plugs to see if it eliminates some sensor signal noise..I wonder if using the ls2 coils adds noise?

Adding LS2 coils would require a 36-1 wheel and a VR sensor. The coils have their own logic board in them so they could not be driven off a standard dizzy. You cannot replace the coil and use an LS2 coil.

You will need coil drivers on the MS board. I don't know if there is an area on the board to add them, there is on the V3 board.

If I'm not mistaken MS11 has the logic in it to run sequential spark if you wanted. Other wise you can run them in wasted spark mode.

[aircooledtechguy]

What mods did you have to do to go with the ls2 drivers? I am currently adding the ignition part to my car, I have been running fuel only.

my system is pretty old also, version 2.2 MSII.

my ve's run around 65 at idle, but I have a pretty hot cam and high compression. I am also planning on adding resistor plugs to see if it eliminates some sensor signal noise..I wonder if using the ls2 coils adds noise?

Adding LS2 coils would require a 36-1 wheel and a VR sensor. The coils have their own logic board in them so they could not be driven off a standard dizzy. You cannot replace the coil and use an LS2 coil.

You will need coil drivers on the MS board. I don't know if there is an area on the board to add them, there is on the V3 board.

If I'm not mistaken MS11 has the logic in it to run sequential spark if you wanted. Other wise you can run them in wasted spark mode.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I am using a trigger wheel/bracket/hall sensor kit w/ LS2 coils from www.thedubshop.net with great success. I used to run a VR sensor when I ran EDIS and always had noise issues (which is always an issue/battle with VR sensors). With the hall sensor, I get clean signals and not one hiccup since the upgrade. Talk to Mario at thedubshop.net.

[toon1]

What mods did you have to do to go with the ls2 drivers? I am currently adding the ignition part to my car, I have been running fuel only.

my system is pretty old also, version 2.2 MSII.

my ve's run around 65 at idle, but I have a pretty hot cam and high compression. I am also planning on adding resistor plugs to see if it eliminates some sensor signal noise..I wonder if using the ls2 coils adds noise?

Adding LS2 coils would require a 36-1 wheel and a VR sensor. The coils have their own logic board in them so they could not be driven off a standard dizzy. You cannot replace the coil and use an LS2 coil.

You will need coil drivers on the MS board. I don't know if there is an area on the board to add them, there is on the V3 board.

If I'm not mistaken MS11 has the logic in it to run sequential spark if you wanted. Other wise you can run them in wasted spark mode.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I am using a trigger wheel/bracket/hall sensor kit w/ LS2 coils from www.thedubshop.net with great success. I used to run a VR sensor when I ran EDIS and always had noise issues (which is always an issue/battle with VR sensors). With the hall sensor, I get clean signals and not one hiccup since the upgrade. Talk to Mario at thedubshop.net.

What kind of noise were you getting?

What symptoms did you see with the noise?

Does the car seem to perform better with the LS2 coils?

[aircooledtechguy]

What mods did you have to do to go with the ls2 drivers? I am currently adding the ignition part to my car, I have been running fuel only.

my system is pretty old also, version 2.2 MSII.

my ve's run around 65 at idle, but I have a pretty hot cam and high compression. I am also planning on adding resistor plugs to see if it eliminates some sensor signal noise..I wonder if using the ls2 coils adds noise?

Adding LS2 coils would require a 36-1 wheel and a VR sensor. The coils have their own logic board in them so they could not be driven off a standard dizzy. You cannot replace the coil and use an LS2 coil.

You will need coil drivers on the MS board. I don't know if there is an area on the board to add them, there is on the V3 board.

If I'm not mistaken MS11 has the logic in it to run sequential spark if you wanted. Other wise you can run them in wasted spark mode.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I am using a trigger wheel/bracket/hall sensor kit w/ LS2 coils from www.thedubshop.net with great success. I used to run a VR sensor when I ran EDIS and always had noise issues (which is always an issue/battle with VR sensors). With the hall sensor, I get clean signals and not one hiccup since the upgrade. Talk to Mario at thedubshop.net.

What kind of noise were you getting?

What symptoms did you see with the noise?

Does the car seem to perform better with the LS2 coils?

The noise is interference from other wiring that it crosses in the harness getting to the ECU. That is why VR sensor wiring MUST be shielded. This interference can cause random misfires or a loss of signal from the VR sensor. In my old system (MS2 w/ EDIS) I would occasionally get a random misfire when the engine was cold and under certain loads. 99% of the time, there was not an issue, but it was always frustrating that 1% of the time.

You can use the same trigger wheels with hall sensors (3 wire sensor) and it's un-effected by other wiring that crosses it. I have never had a misfire since moving to a hall sensor and the LS2 coils. Perfect signal, perfect spark.

[aircooledtechguy]

I am also planning on adding resistor plugs to see if it eliminates some sensor signal noise..I wonder if using the ls2 coils adds noise?

I've run Denso Iridium IW20 plugs since moving to MS and have been VERY happy with their performance and longevity. They are worth the investment IMHO.

[toon1]

Any notable performance gains with the PS2 coils?

[aircooledtechguy]

Any notable performance gains with the PS2 coils?

Yes. Trying to accelerate with that random misfire, when it would occur, SUCKED. Now it does not happen; EVER. Just nice acceleration as it should. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Any performance gains by switching from EDIS (wasted spark) to the LS2 COP (sequential spark) is likely only noticeable on a dyno. Since I currently have this on the 2056cc with a red-line set @ 5600rpms, I'm not turning the motor fast enough to really see the benefits of the hotter spark at high rpms that sequential COP provides by doubling the dwell time on the coils.

In all fairness, you could likely have a similar result by using a hall sensor with EDIS. If you're buying all the parts new, then IMHO you may as well go LS2 COP and be done with it since the cost is comparable.

[Tom]

Just as an information piece for you guys running wires that are being shielded, remember to ground only one end of the shield. If you ground both ends of the shield, it can become a current carrying source and the resulting EM field from that current can cause noise also. Why does grounding the wire at both ends do this? All ground points are not the same potential! A good insurance method is to run a dedicated LARGE ( like 2 or 4 gage ) ground wire around to where you need grounds for this system and hook all of your grounds to that.
Tom

[crash914]

I will look into the plugs, I have to use 10mm plugs so selection for resistor plugs is limited...it looks like I will have to add a quadspark module for the 4 logic level outputs as I only have the one with my older unit...

[Michelj13]

What mods did you have to do to go with the ls2 drivers?

Here is circuit I used to on MS board to trigger LS2 coils in wasted spark mode. The LS coils only require 5 volts to trigger. The coils have built-in ignitors. You need to supply a ground and +12V from battery ( I also used a relay) to the coil connector.

I also built a dedicated ignition board to help clean up the wiring.

[crash914]

Ok, got it...thanks!

[Michelj13]

Hi,

I have almost 250 miles on my MS setup. It really runs very well as is, but, now I am into the finer points of tuning.

I have an issue I have that I cannot figure out. Once the engine starts from cold and finds a nice idle after a minute ( I sometimes need to use very light throttle, to keep it going and bring rpm up), then for the next 5 minutes after engine is at a very stable idle speed, the engine surges to about 2500-3000 rpm and slowly come back down to idle speed (1000). This occurs whenever I touch the throttle a bit of store auto tune of burn some new data to the ecu.

Once the engine warms up, it does not behave like this and has a very stable idle and run near perfectly. I am running in closed loop idle.

Any help appreciated

[Michelj13]

It's been 5 years and megasquirt project is still running. Not perfect, but quite good.

Enjoy the video below. You may want to start at the 1:45 time, pretty boring until then.

https://youtu.be/NTkOdxpMdq0

Enjoy :-)

[GregAmy]

Once the engine warms up, it does not behave like this and has a very stable idle and run near perfectly. I am running in closed loop idle.

Are you running an idle control/bypass valve? Could be the logic on when it activates is borked. Or something in the warm up tables.

I do not run an idle control valve at all, and do not have that problem with Microsquirt.

Maybe try unplugging the control valve and seeing if that behavior persists.

GA

[Michelj13]

Yes I am running an idle control valve in closed loop mode. I agree, its some adjustment in the warm up. I ran in open loop just using the clt sensor data to control my idle valve for years and just recently have been successful with the closed loop idle mode.

The closed loop idle has been the most difficult part of megasquirt. I'm really close.

[JamesM]

Hi,

I have almost 250 miles on my MS setup. It really runs very well as is, but, now I am into the finer points of tuning.

I have an issue I have that I cannot figure out. Once the engine starts from cold and finds a nice idle after a minute ( I sometimes need to use very light throttle, to keep it going and bring rpm up), then for the next 5 minutes after engine is at a very stable idle speed, the engine surges to about 2500-3000 rpm and slowly come back down to idle speed (1000). This occurs whenever I touch the throttle a bit of store auto tune of burn some new data to the ecu.

Once the engine warms up, it does not behave like this and has a very stable idle and run near perfectly. I am running in closed loop idle.

Any help appreciated

If you post your current MSQ(tune file) and a datalog of the issue it might help identify what is going on. It could be the way your idle valve is setup but it could also be your warm up table, fuel table, ignition table, or any combination of all of those. To many variables to guess at, need data.

[BeatNavy]

Yes, I'd be interested in seeing your MSQ as well. I've got a 2270 running Microsquirt, and I agree, closed loop idle tuning can be a challenge. I've been fiddling with it on and off for the last 6 months. There are so many variables to play with (cold advance, RPM targets and advance, general timing, PID values, VE table, etc. etc.), and because you only get one real cold start per day, it just takes a long time. My situation seems to be complicated by the fact that my idle AFR numbers don't seem usable. Right now I have the following:

1. Somewhat difficult cold start and initial idle (first 30 seconds or so) -- I've made progress here, but it's slow, and sometimes I think my PWM isn't big enough.

2. Closed loop idle generally steady around 1000 RPM, sometimes. But I can't figure out why other times I'll get a hanging idle up around 1400 that won't come down.

3. Otherwise it runs well and pulls strong and is a blast to drive.

A huge part of doing this is just learning more about how modern FI works. But in the unlikely event Jeff Bowlsby wanders into this thread, I'll admit that it's amazing how the Porsche / Bosch engineers made D-Jet work so well given the tools they had at the time, and how simple it really is. A well-tuned D-Jet car starts, idles, and runs nicely.

Would like to hear more about your setup/experience. At least a few more of us here have "jumped into the MS pool" since you built your setup.

[GregAmy]

Honestly, it's why I decided to "K.I.S.S." and not have any closed-loop idle control. Initial tune for hot/warm idle and then use the warm-up tables for cold stuff.

Sure, it's not a rock-solid idle, but it's still SCADS better than the D-Jet ever was.

After all, this ain't no Honda Accord... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[BeatNavy]

Honestly, it's why I decided to "K.I.S.S." and not have any closed-loop idle control. Initial tune for hot/warm idle and then use the warm-up tables for cold stuff.

Sure, it's not a rock-solid idle, but it's still SCADS better than the D-Jet ever was.

After all, this ain't no Honda Accord... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

C'mon, Greg, what else would I do with my time other than chase the perfect idle, right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

That's kind of what I was saying (again, I'll deny ever saying this if Jeff asks): my D-Jet with 1-2-3 dizzy was rock solid idle, with so many fewer variables.