Tunnel Repair, Several questions here.... Options

[malcolm2]

Not sure why by one of my POs has used a U-bolt to hold down one of the tubes in the tunnel. At this point I am not sure what goes in the tube (poor documentation on my part), but anyway I am wondering if there is a better way to repair this.



Someone cut a couple extra holes in the top of the tunnel and it looks like the brace for this tube was welded to the location where the hole was cut. Or maybe the brace broke.



and finally a shot from under the car.



This is the larger of the the 2 tubes running to the pedal cluster. The smaller one is tucked up high on the top side near the driver.

Q1: Clutch or Accel?
Q2: Should I just leave the u-bolt? Better idea?
Q3: surface rust throughout the tunnel. Impossible to get to. I was thinking of using the Eastwood interior frame spray as a rust killer. Better ideas?

Thanks,
Clark

[Mike Bellis]

Clutch...

Needs to be very secure! Tough place to weld to fix it correctly.

[Gint]

Because the clutch tube came loose and he chose to bolt it back down instead of welding it. Pretty common 914 clutch tube repair method. Not the one I would chose, but I suppose it works.

[walterolin]

Here's a thread for you: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28313

[malcolm2]

Here's a thread for you: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28313

thanks for the link. I really suck at "successfully" searching on this forum.

[malcolm2]

BUMP for the AM readers.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)

[Spoke]

Show a pic where this tube enters the engine compartment. Most likely it is ripped or rusted there.

The clutch tube should be welded at the engine firewall, at the other end towards the pedals, and somewhere in between to hold the center of the tube in place.

Check my thread where I re-attached the clutch tube to the car somewhere on page 6.

Spoke's Build Thread

[malcolm2]

Show a pic where this tube enters the engine compartment. Most likely it is ripped or rusted there.

The clutch tube should be welded at the engine firewall, at the other end towards the pedals, and somewhere in between to hold the center of the tube in place.

Check my thread where I re-attached the clutch tube to the car somewhere on page 6.

Spoke's Build Thread

Yes you are correct the firewall had been torn, then a nice thick piece of steel had been used to weld the tube tight to the firewall. I now see why they used such a stout piece. It was 2" x 2" x 3/16" thick with a tube sized hole drilled in it and then they welded the tube to the plate and the plate to the firewall. Then water rusted the inside lower FW and then rusted the outside lower FW. I have cut the rust out now so there is not much to see. But now I understand that I need a HD connection for the clutch tube and the FW.

Thanks

[Cap'n Krusty]

The front needs to be axially secure, and a u-bolt isn't going to provide that without crushing the tube. Get the clamp out, locate the original position for the front bracket, and repair it properly. Weld it rather than braze, because brass is prone to failure from vibration.

The Cap'n

[IanS]

Mine has the exact same issue and u-bolt repair. And of course rust in the tunnel.
I didn't see any replies in this thread on the rust - is the Eastwood or similar kit the way to go? The tunnel itself looks to be a PITA to remove cleanly though I saw the one in the F/S section that looked very nicely done.

[malcolm2]

Mine has the exact same issue and u-bolt repair. And of course rust in the tunnel.
I didn't see any replies in this thread on the rust - is the Eastwood or similar kit the way to go? The tunnel itself looks to be a PITA to remove cleanly though I saw the one in the F/S section that looked very nicely done.

Everything that wants to come out of the tunnel of my car is out. That leaves Accel tube, clutch tube (loose but not coming out) the very front hold down bracket will not let the flared end pass thru. both heat cable tubes also remain. I have removed the rear-most section of the floor panel so I have decent access right now.

Next I read about using some METAL READY first. Then I will try the Eastwood internal frame spray when dry and that is about all I can do. I guess POR is spray-able, but I am not prepared for that.

[malcolm2]

The front needs to be axially secure, and a u-bolt isn't going to provide that without crushing the tube. Get the clamp out, locate the original position for the front bracket, and repair it properly. Weld it rather than braze, because brass is prone to failure from vibration.

The Cap'n

Cap'n,
the u-bolt was really tight. And I now understand that the "thru firewall" point needs to be very secure. Which is on me to secure when I replace the firewall. There is one more strap close to the pedals but it not tight, only holding the tube in the high position. This thing broke loose from a couple factory welds, I don't see me or anyone really doing a better job than the factory on this thing. Especially with all that surface rust to remove and get a good hold.

I don't see this thing moving. What do you mean by axial? Up-down & side to side or spinning on the tube's axis?