My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Hey guys!

Yeah Kent I realized I had stopped posting stuff in my build thread. Not good for anyone building an EG33. Although the floating axles do offer a LOT of "float"..like...enough to fit two 914 CV's on the Porsche end of the shaft, I actually think the root of the problem was combining the floating axle with a very weak CV joint on the 914 end. If the 914 CV is floppy the floating axle will move A LOT. Not only can the cage get moved into a precarious position and break, but the Subaru end, which is very strong but not secured at the end, can slip out, causing the bearings to come off of the "tulip" (you know what I mean). I think it happened to Ross once. Ended up adding 944 CVs with the adapter from Bob which added about 1.5 inches or so to the end length, so the axle is fully compressed into the Subaru end. Even had to let the trailing arm down to reinstall it. Works great!

George, thanks for the feedback. Always like to hear it "straight". Post pics when you can! I purposely left the wire long just in case. WAY long (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . My plan is to POSSIBLY move my alternator into the spot where the AC compressor was. That puts the positive terminal upside down I think, which might be a bad idea... My battery is on the opposite side from normal, which might have to change if I go back to the stock intake setup (which is recommended BTW). Or maybe I put the stock airbox there and do a small battery on the other side. I also saw there is a guy who makes phenolic spacers for the SVX that might help with clearance. Gonna check into that. Hope your new little one is well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) .

[Chris H.]

Another small thing...when we buy these 5MT transmissions they may or may not come with the clutch/flywheel area cover plate. Mine didn't and I hated the huge gap and exposed flywheel. Always assumed there was a cover of some kind but my only experience with a Subaru engine was an automatic.

Finally took a few minutes to find this:



Part number is 30216, followed by sub numbers for different years. Mine for the 2006 was 30216AA0020. E-bay, $17.XX

[DBCooper]

So are you driving it regularly now? Do you have more detailed impressions? Fun to drive? Worth all the work? Anything you'd do differently?

[A&P Mech]

How funny, I was just looking for one as well. I will check eBay.

[76-914]

Me too! Thx a bunch, Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) That was bugging the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) out of me and I thought I would have to make something. That will keep the road debris out of the TO bearing.

[Chris H.]

So are you driving it regularly now? Do you have more detailed impressions? Fun to drive? Worth all the work? Anything you'd do differently?

I'm driving it...have about 350 miles on it for the year which is A LOT since I did 2000 in the previous 12 years, most of which was done in the first 5. The VSS is not hooked up. Not going another mile until I do that. I think it's hindering the performance a bit as I posted on Kent's thread. I definitely have some feedback on your questions above. Let me but a list together.

[Chris H.]

Me too! Thx a bunch, Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) That was bugging the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) out of me and I thought I would have to make something. That will keep the road debris out of the TO bearing.

Sure guys. I'll install it in the next day or two and confirm that it bolts up OK...can't imagine why it wouldn't... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) It's been 4 mo's since your last post. You don't write, you don't call. Do I need to dig up my "Slackers" thread again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Any hang ups or just the weather? Hope everything on the home front is good. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) Relentless, huh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chris H.]

Yeah lot going on at work but thanks for checking in Kent. Supposed to be a nice weekend. Maybe I'll twist some wrenches. I just got a big package from Bruce Stone. Pretty front suspension bits. I should at least open the box tomorrow!

[76-914]

Don't stay away from it too long, Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Justinp71]

Yeah, give us your driving impressions! This might have to be the new 914-6 since porsche motors are becoming unobtainium these days!

[76-914]

C'mon Chris. We're dying for some Subie chat. 2yr's ago there were 4 of us posting conversion stuff everyday. I miss those days. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Working on your conversion awhile and that evening reading about what others had done that day. I'm going to be doing some "major changes" with my cooling system. I anticipate my current system will not handle AC sitting in traffic and 100F. Worst that could happen is overkill. I'm leaning on waiting until after RT66 so I don't feel rushed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent

[Chris H.]

Yeah those were fun days. Where is Doug?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpLQ0wtQ0R0


Let's get back on track! I'm in a slight funk. Just need to put it up in the air and get started. Phase 1 was really "can I actually DO THIS?" Now I need to route the wiring right, make it look nice overall, secure the radiator better, etc.

You ever decide whether you want to swap out your radiator hoses ? 1.25 gates #28445 is the way to go I think. We can split 50 feet for about $100 each. Not quite ready for that but keep it in mind. You might want to do it before the RT66 deal. Remember you whipped that engine like a mule and it got hot last time? Why do you think you're AC system won't work well when it's hot? It's a pretty small area to cool.

[76-914]

Yeah those were fun days. Where is Doug?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpLQ0wtQ0R0


Let's get back on track! I'm in a slight funk. Just need to put it up in the air and get started. Phase 1 was really "can I actually DO THIS?" Now I need to route the wiring right, make it look nice overall, secure the radiator better, etc.

You ever decide whether you want to swap out your radiator hoses ? 1.25 gates #28445 is the way to go I think. We can split 50 feet for about $100 each. Not quite ready for that but keep it in mind. You might want to do it before the RT66 deal. Remember you whipped that engine like a mule and it got hot last time? Why do you think you're AC system won't work well when it's hot? It's a pretty small area to cool.

I'm fine with cooling the engine as long as I keep the rpm reasonable. IOW, not in 2nd when I should be in 4th. And I'm pretty sure that is due in part to the hose size causing the pump to cavitate at high RPM. It's whether it will cool the engine with the AC on in extreme conditions. The frigging AC is big enough for a Fairlane. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I have a dual core sitting in the garage that will handle the added load of the AC. I'll see if the higher RPM still brings the temp up with the new radiator. If it does then we split a roll.
So how many days to tidy up your wiring?

[Chris H.]

Next step is to pull the engine. Wish I didn't have to but I have a few things to do to it and it's much easier with it out. Will try to get that done this weekend. Really want to drive the car more this year.

I see what you're saying about the AC...you're worried about keeping the engine cool not the car's interior. I'm pretty set on going to wider hoses just to be sure it never gets hot on one of those long drives with the hammer down. What radiator did you pick up?

[ThePaintedMan]

Kent/Chris,
I have done some research on this phenomenon. There is a website where a few guys who have raced these motors documented their issues and solutions. I'll work on finding that for you in my links when I get home. Essentially the cavitation issue is caused by low volume entering the thermostat housing during sustained high RPMs, which is partially solved by welding a larger diameter inlet on the thermostat housing neck and using a larger hose (1.5 would probably work, but some suggested even as large as 1.75). The other solution is to move the thermostat to the outlet side, prior to entering the radiator. That hose can remain 1.25. I'm planning to do both of these on my build.

The only issue I've thought of is how low the larger hose will fit when run underneath the car. And of course, the Celica radiator outlet would have to be cutoff and the appropriate sized one welded back on.

[Chris H.]

Thanks George. No rush but I'd like to see what you found. That will be especially applicable in your case. I expect you'll be running at high RPMs a LOT. Can't wait for you to get it in the car. The EG33 is quite an engine.

[76-914]

Next step is to pull the engine. Wish I didn't have to but I have a few things to do to it and it's much easier with it out. Will try to get that done this weekend. Really want to drive the car more this year.

I see what you're saying about the AC...you're worried about keeping the engine cool not the car's interior. I'm pretty set on going to wider hoses just to be sure it never gets hot on one of those long drives with the hammer down. What radiator did you pick up?

The Celica GTS one. For $167 shipped with fans. Just like a sore Peter; ya can't beat it! Let me know when you want to order that hose and I'll get you some $$$. I'll probably run the hoses just for comparison purposes. That and to get some "hard" numbers. IOW, what works for the EZ30 using the cooling configuration that "I" have. I've found that what works on someone else car may not be the ticket for yours or mine given slight variations between each vehicle. Should come up with some "hard" numbers for my setup. I'd really like to come up with a proven "package" for guy's that want to convert but not experiment like we do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
Pull the engine. I know it's grunt work but in a couple of hours it is out and your back in the "work groove". I'd bet you could be finished in a month with full on weekend attacks. Let's get this thing on the road and "out of your hair". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) Oh, I forgot to add; don't know what happened to Doug's project. Poor guy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Life jumped up and Bitch slapped the poor dude. He went thru a lot with the divorce and selling his business. I emailed him a few month's back and he did not respond so I left it at that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I'd like to see him get back in the pool. I even entertained the idea of finishing his project. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[76-914]

Kent/Chris,
I have done some research on this phenomenon. There is a website where a few guys who have raced these motors documented their issues and solutions. I'll work on finding that for you in my links when I get home. Essentially the cavitation issue is caused by low volume entering the thermostat housing during sustained high RPMs, which is partially solved by welding a larger diameter inlet on the thermostat housing neck and using a larger hose (1.5 would probably work, but some suggested even as large as 1.75). The other solution is to move the thermostat to the outlet side, prior to entering the radiator. That hose can remain 1.25. I'm planning to do both of these on my build.

The only issue I've thought of is how low the larger hose will fit when run underneath the car. And of course, the Celica radiator outlet would have to be cutoff and the appropriate sized one welded back on.

Sounds correct. Find that article and post it, Jorge. Nothing like new info! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)