Project Time! 71 garage build, Broke a Valve Spring... Options

[dfelz]

Sweet thanks for the link boogie man, i think i read through that a while back but forgot about it. ill have to look through it later. My main thing is i believe they still used stock mounting holes and that CF piece came with mounting studs on it (i could be wrong on that, like i said i havent read that article in a long time). and what i want to avoid it using the stock mounting method, its a PAIN in the ass! i want it to be simple and clean, and dont mind doing an little cutting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) and welding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) to make that happen. Either way i need to got through that article since it talks about wiring the new gauges too!! need to know that for sure!!

Doug thanks for the tip, ill look into flex agent.... is like an additive to normal paint??

[boogie_man]

Sweet thanks for the link boogie man, i think i read through that a while back but forgot about it. ill have to look through it later. My main thing is i believe they still used stock mounting holes and that CF piece came with mounting studs on it (i could be wrong on that, like i said i havent read that article in a long time). and what i want to avoid it using the stock mounting method, its a PAIN in the ass! i want it to be simple and clean, and dont mind doing an little cutting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) and welding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) to make that happen. Either way i need to got through that article since it talks about wiring the new gauges too!! need to know that for sure!!

Doug thanks for the tip, ill look into flex agent.... is like an additive to normal paint??

I Liked this one

http://www.phoenixhobbies.com/html/911_dash.html

[dfelz]

Sweet thanks for the link boogie man, i think i read through that a while back but forgot about it. ill have to look through it later. My main thing is i believe they still used stock mounting holes and that CF piece came with mounting studs on it (i could be wrong on that, like i said i havent read that article in a long time). and what i want to avoid it using the stock mounting method, its a PAIN in the ass! i want it to be simple and clean, and dont mind doing an little cutting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) and welding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) to make that happen. Either way i need to got through that article since it talks about wiring the new gauges too!! need to know that for sure!!

Doug thanks for the tip, ill look into flex agent.... is like an additive to normal paint??

I Liked this one

http://www.phoenixhobbies.com/html/911_dash.html

i do like that too! but that would require me finding more parts!! haha, its cool that that can be done though. just read through the first one you posted and it looks like there are standoffs glassed into the Getty one, which are not on mine... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[mittelmotor]

Sweet thanks for the link boogie man, i think i read through that a while back but forgot about it. ill have to look through it later. My main thing is i believe they still used stock mounting holes and that CF piece came with mounting studs on it (i could be wrong on that, like i said i havent read that article in a long time). and what i want to avoid it using the stock mounting method, its a PAIN in the ass! i want it to be simple and clean, and dont mind doing an little cutting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) and welding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) to make that happen. Either way i need to got through that article since it talks about wiring the new gauges too!! need to know that for sure!!

Doug thanks for the tip, ill look into flex agent.... is like an additive to normal paint??

I'm not sure exactly whether it's an additive, or a paint formulated for flexible bumpers. Any auto paint shop would know.

[dfelz]

Sweet thanks for the link boogie man, i think i read through that a while back but forgot about it. ill have to look through it later. My main thing is i believe they still used stock mounting holes and that CF piece came with mounting studs on it (i could be wrong on that, like i said i havent read that article in a long time). and what i want to avoid it using the stock mounting method, its a PAIN in the ass! i want it to be simple and clean, and dont mind doing an little cutting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) and welding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) to make that happen. Either way i need to got through that article since it talks about wiring the new gauges too!! need to know that for sure!!

Doug thanks for the tip, ill look into flex agent.... is like an additive to normal paint??

I'm not sure exactly whether it's an additive, or a paint formulated for flexible bumpers. Any auto paint shop would know.

I did some google searching on flex agent for fiberglass painting, and like many car topics, some say use it some say its not necessary with modern paints, primers and top coats if done correctly from the beging. biggest thing is all the oils and wax need to be cleaned off and removed before any sanding or priming takes place....
and also like you said, if properly braced and extra thickness added to weaker areas, not much flexing should occur that would be large enough for cracking to take place.

[mrbubblehead]

hey david i read a great tutorial about changing from a 914 dash to a 911 and that guy didnt have to drill any holes. or make any real mods. i dont know where that tutorial is. but its out there.

http://rockaria.net/914/gettydash/index.html

thats the one (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)



here's one of them, looks awesome. Looking good feltzy !!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[boogie_man]

Sweet thanks for the link boogie man, i think i read through that a while back but forgot about it. ill have to look through it later. My main thing is i believe they still used stock mounting holes and that CF piece came with mounting studs on it (i could be wrong on that, like i said i havent read that article in a long time). and what i want to avoid it using the stock mounting method, its a PAIN in the ass! i want it to be simple and clean, and dont mind doing an little cutting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) and welding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) to make that happen. Either way i need to got through that article since it talks about wiring the new gauges too!! need to know that for sure!!

Doug thanks for the tip, ill look into flex agent.... is like an additive to normal paint??

I'm not sure exactly whether it's an additive, or a paint formulated for flexible bumpers. Any auto paint shop would know.

I did some google searching on flex agent for fiberglass painting, and like many car topics, some say use it some say its not necessary with modern paints, primers and top coats if done correctly from the beging. biggest thing is all the oils and wax need to be cleaned off and removed before any sanding or priming takes place....
and also like you said, if properly braced and extra thickness added to weaker areas, not much flexing should occur that would be large enough for cracking to take place.

To paint over fiberglass will not need a flexible additive. I would sand it down
with 150 grit, put a 2 part primer on it, prep again with either 320 dry or 400
wet sand paper with a final scuff of 500-800 if needed. If you're close, bring it
by my shop to see what can be done.

Thanks

Scott

[dfelz]

To paint over fiberglass will not need a flexible additive. I would sand it down
with 150 grit, put a 2 part primer on it, prep again with either 320 dry or 400
wet sand paper with a final scuff of 500-800 if needed. If you're close, bring it
by my shop to see what can be done.

Thanks

Scott

Thanks Scott, I appreciate the offer! If your shop is in san juan Capistrano your on my way to san diego! and i will probably be going down that way next friday... i may PM you later next week....

[boogie_man]

To paint over fiberglass will not need a flexible additive. I would sand it down
with 150 grit, put a 2 part primer on it, prep again with either 320 dry or 400
wet sand paper with a final scuff of 500-800 if needed. If you're close, bring it
by my shop to see what can be done.

Thanks

Scott

Thanks Scott, I appreciate the offer! If your shop is in san juan Capistrano your on my way to san diego! and i will probably be going down that way next friday... i may PM you later next week....

Anytime/anything to help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[dfelz]

Finals are finished!! So I will have a week to crank out work on the Porsche! I started Thursday night taking apart the carbs and cleaning them in carb dip, checking all the individual parts for damage. Of all the parts only one idle jet needs replacing, the hole is slightly twisted. I am trying to do a bunch of research on what sizing to go with, Doug and Ethan are helping me out a lot with that too! Currently have 30 venturies, 115 main jet, 50 idle, and an f11 emulsion tube (dual 40 webers) don't remember what the air vents are at... Any suggestions will be accepted!!

Right now and until Tuesday I am in San Diego! Wooooow I get to go surfing and hang out and eat good food!

Clean parts from one
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1364081825.1.jpg)

Idle jet that needs replacing
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1364081825.2.jpg)

[dfelz]

Hey guys, It's been a long time since I last gave an update, and I have been getting work done on the car, but its been slow and little by little, so nothing every seemed worthy of giving an update for...

But heres where I am at with the engine: I have removed all of the pistons and cylinders for cleaning/inspection. Once the piston heads were cleaned of the layers of carbon build up they turned out looking pretty nice. The cylinders all look pretty clean in my opinion, all still have honing lines very visible. Only thing i noticed was that one cylinder at the base (side that goes into case, has a piece chipped off the edge. I feel that it shouldn't be much of a hindrance, but if someone thinks otherwise please interrupt. I have a set of new piston rings to go along with the rebuild, and when i do put it back together do i just need to oil the wrist pins and oil the cylinder walls? or is there anything else that needs lubed up?

The chip
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1365999111.1.jpg)

cylinder walls
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1365999111.2.jpg)

Pistons before
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1365999112.3.jpg)

Pistons being cleaned
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1365999112.4.jpg)

Cleaned Pistons
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1365999112.5.jpg)

Carbs are also back together and ready to go, with brand new velocity stacks to go along with them. They are currently set up right now with F-11 emulsion tubes, 115 mains, 50 idles, 200 air, and 30 venturis. All parts were soaked in carb dip and scrubbed down clean!
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1365999112.6.jpg)

Theres a few other things i want to discuss, but ill wait for now.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[dfelz]

Is there a way to tell if your flywheel is worn by just inspecting it while its still mounted? I ask because I discovered that my throwout fork on the tranny that came with the engine was heated and bent to a curve. I posted a question regarding this and some one had suggested that the flywheel was probably machined. I also anticipate that the clutch cable was significantly stretched, I say this because when i was disconnecting the cable, at the end there were two sockets used as spacers, one regular and one deep socket(!), before the final nut was threaded on the tip! thats a lot of stretch!
This cable was on the old car and will therefore not be used on the new one but i am still wondering if i should be looking deeper into this and be inspecting the flywheel and other close by components for wear? What are your opinions on the matter??

Here are the two forks i have, as you can see one was altered!
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1366084442.1.jpg)

I have no idea if this picture will help at all, but if you see anything odd, or have a direction for me to start looking in for possible wear spots, it will be very helpful
(IMG:http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b583/dfelz914/photo_zps8cc06b64.jpg)

Thanks!

[Black22]

Well for starters we can't see the flywheel. The picture you posted is of the pressure plate that is attached to the flywheel. The clutch disc will be between the above mentioned parts.

You can get an idea of wear from looking at the flywheel surface, but if you're not sure, let a pro inspect it.

Also, if those "fingers" around the center of the pressure plate have a groove worn in them, as they appear to have in the picture, I would replace it.

['73-914kid]

If you pull the flywheel, bring it to school on wednesday and we can have a look. If someone took the time to heat and bend the clutch fork though, it means that something in that pack is definetely not correct...

[dfelz]

Thanks Mike for the rundown of the components, I appreciate it!

Ethan, I'll text you for your availability! Also, if your not in class tomorrow at 6, there is a presentation in the BSC by a NASA engineer that was on the challenger team that would not sign the consent for launch over the safety risks at stake that were ignored by the others, should be pretty good. Ill be there since my engineering ethics professor is requiring us to be there.

[dfelz]

FINALLY STARTED ENGINE REASSEMBLY! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Ethan came over and gave me a big hand in getting me on my way with the engine, YAAAAAY. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

New piston rings all around
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1367574312.1.jpg)

Clean cylinders
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1367574312.2.jpg)

All four pistons and cylinders back on tonight
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1367574312.3.jpg)

[boogie_man]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[dfelz]

Tonight i got both heads put on and torqued down, I reused the head gaskets because the ones that came in the engine gasket set were too small. The old ones were in great condition, i cleaned them up a little and they looked fine to use. Cleaned up and rattle caned the deflectors and put those back on too. Then cleaned up the oil cooler a little bit so it was shinny again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1367831763.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1367831763.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1293.photobucket.com-14538-1367831763.3.jpg)

Going to try and work on the valve train next.

[monkeyboy]

Arent the head gaskets Copper? I thought they needed to be annealed before being reused.

[dfelz]

Arent the head gaskets Copper? I thought they needed to be annealed before being reused.

I think your thinking of the gaskets on the exhaust ports, which i have new ones of and will be annealing those before using. i believe the head gaskets on the cylinder side i was speaking of are aluminum.