making some progress on my sbc 307 V8 car, -- rear sway bar back in Options

[jimkelly]

thanks for that!!!

jim

[jimkelly]

don't be an idiot like me.

anyway, one flipped and one left to do, waiting on bushing from bdstone : )

[76-914]

Is that a "red" ground wire? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[jimkelly]

from the relay board to the body? yes. I will change it.

side note: as for the water lines. the exactly correct grommets are a bitcvh to find, so I bought a few of these 2" ID grommets (ebay item # - 261171010853) on ebay cheap, and they will allow me to add some rubber around my hoses to give them even better protection. because my original, properly sized grommets wore thru, and I want to avoid any chance of my hoses getting damaged from contact with sheet metal.

pic shows my orig grommets used and how much sheet metal I need to grind away in order to install the 2" ID ones I just got. need to get a rasp bit.

hoses are 1.4" OD and 1.7" OD.

[jimkelly]

also - before, I had the pos from alt running to pos on starter.

I guess it can be routed this way or directly to pos on battery?

[Mike Bellis]

also - before, I had the pos from alt running to pos on starter.

I guess it can be routed this way or directly to pos on battery?

It can be routed that way but... Crimp a ring on the red wire. Get rid of that mechanical lug; bad things will happen... Replace the "scotch lock" (bad things will happen) fitting on the yellow wire with a butt splice or solder & shrink tube. Finally replace the white wire with a wire the same gauge as the yellow one.

[jimkelly]

mike - I will get those wires buttoned up - thanks.

and thanks to bdstone914 for some needed parts.

[jimkelly]

guess i'll run the coolant lines today. the 2" ID gommets will be fine. I was able to wrap the 1.5" OD hose fully with old hose, but the 1.75" OD does not leave a big gap but I will stuff some rubber in there.

while I take a break from bleeding my brakes. THREAD LINK
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=220851

[jimkelly]

well, not sure I like the relatively short 90 degree bend of the large hose from under car to water pump, a curved tube of aluminum would be real nice here.

also, what could I put on the smaller hose that will reside only 4-5 inches from exhaust header?

BTW: sheet metal sheers cut thru coolant hose very nicely.

I found this 90 degree 1-1/4 OD bend on ebay and bought it.

[bulitt]

I may have to get one of those 90's.

[jimkelly]

since the only electrical connector I have, that has strain relief, is a female connector, I have been removing the insulators from my crappy connectors, crimping them and then heat shrinking them, to give these single crimp connections some weather protection and some amount of strain relief. like mcmark does, I always try to use narrow heat shrink and on top of that, next size up on all connections.

and today I organized my metric sockets - seems I have a 10mm shortage : (
I still need to organize my wrenches.

[jimkelly]

rcvd the 90 degree tube today - looks good.

[andys]

Much nicer with that aluminum 90!

Andys

[speed metal army]

Hey Jim, weather pack electrical connectors are a cool solution that stays nice and clean. There is a few on my car. The spades are history! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jimkelly]

well, my car had a big gap, at top, between the drivers side door and the rear fender. I've been thinking of using a cut off wheel and cutting around the long, top and both sides, letting car settle into the gap, and welding the seam back up. but today I decided to add few washers to the door hinge as a less invasive approach. prior to today, door had to be slammed BRUTALLY HARD to close, but after washer treatment, 2 at top and 1 at bottom, and door closes nicely now. good enough for me.

next step is add coolant to cooling system, get a battery, and see if she starts.

I decided to lose the sheet metal screws and replace with bolts tacked to the floor (so hose install/removal is a one man job), a washer and a nylock nut. the sheet metal screws' pointy top protruding into thru the cabin floor was an issue.

socket on drill bit when you only want to go thru but not full bit depth.

[JRust]

Yeah the aluminum 90% was a good move. I didn't like that bend with the gates hose either. I found a formed hose at the parts store to run from the firewall up. It was perfect from my buick setup. Looking good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[jimkelly]

well two issues.

I need to either come up with a washer solution for the top bracket for engine mount, or I can just replace with rectangular steel and use longer main bolt. looking at the pic, I think I will get to perfect thick washers and grind the sides down so they will fit into the recess, might need 2 or three on each side.

second, do I need to move lower rear tranny mount washer to just above trans? right now it is just above the conversion/set back plate, above trans ear.

while making this video I realized I had some eng/trans movement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEZGsCXrBCw


found this pics..
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1096639080.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-287-1153122207.jpg)

[JRust]

The big washer with the groove goes on the bottom of the tranny ear. The groove to the inner side of the ear. The way you have it the tranny can slide right back off the bolt.

[jimkelly]

I have been searching and have yet to find a pic or drawing that has this washer at bottom of trans. but I see it belongs at top of trans under normal circumstances. though I can see where putting it at bottom in this circumstance makes sense.

[jimkelly]

instead of this jumble of parts, I am thinking of installing a piece of 2" x 2" x 1/4" square steel tube which will require 3 holes and allow me to put a nylock nut on top of the bolt going thru the trans ear. reusing all hardware, just need the nylock nut.