2270 Build Thread Options

[McMark]

I'm building this 2270 and I thought this would be a good one to document. I'm going to try and cover every little aspect of the build, although I'm not necessarily going to break down every process into a step by step.

I'm starting with a 1.7 'W' case. I did a quick line bore check and it's a nice STD case. But more on that later when I actually measure the line bore accurately.

Case Preparation - In this section I'm covering all the modifications and inspections to be done on the bare case.

Threaded Gallery Plugs, Resurface Oil Filter Mount
I used my slide hammer setup to pull the original gallery plugs. I'm just doing the 'normal five'. In this picture also shows the oil filter mount face - I pull the studs and true the surface up to ensure a good, leak-free seal.


HV Oil Pump
I have a Schadek oil pump that I've cut in half to mark the case for 'port matching' the oil pump. The ports on the case are smaller than the oil pump, so this simply eases the transition. I use a carbide cutter for aluminum in a pneumatic die grinder to carefully open up the holes.



Cleaning Stud Threads
I chased all the M8x1.25 studs on the case. This eases installation, but also ensures more accurate torque. Any fastener that has a specific torque value should have clean threads. The rust/dirt/sealant/etc on the surface will make the fastener harder to turn, which means you're getting a slightly false torque reading.

You'll see the head studs have all been removed. I don't use a tap or die to clean the head stud or the case threads because I've seen this result in loose head studs. I don't touch this parts of the case, and I use a wire wheel on the bench top grinder to clean the threads without risk of removing material.

[tweet]

Hi Mark,
How do you true up the surface for the oil filter mount, without distorting the surface? What are you using? I'm going to follow this thread, intently, as I have my engine apart and would like to do the same build.

[skeates]

Super excited about this thread! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

BTW - for those of us out of the loop, which are the "normal five" plugs?

[r_towle]

is there a decent way to shore up the sump bracket....the one that breaks if you torque it too much??

Rich

[Matt Romanowski]

You should use a rethreading die not a cutting die to chase the threads. Using a cutting die will make the threads loose.

[McMark]

Hi Mark,
How do you true up the surface for the oil filter mount, without distorting the surface? What are you using? I'm going to follow this thread, intently, as I have my engine apart and would like to do the same build.

Flat steel bar with sticky back 320g sandpaper (available at a paint shop). They're usually not far out, so you don't have to work hard. Just give it a few light passes until the pattern is equal.

Super excited about this thread! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

BTW - for those of us out of the loop, which are the "normal five" plugs?

Three behind the flywheel. Two next to the oil filter console (see pic above).

is there a decent way to shore up the sump bracket....the one that breaks if you torque it too much??

Don't torque it too much. Seems like a smart ass answer, but really it's not an issue unless you're doing it wrong.

You should use a rethreading die not a cutting die to chase the threads. Using a cutting die will make the threads loose.

True. I need to get a set of those. Since I don't have them is why I don't touch the important fasteners (i.e. my comment about head studs).

[euro911]

is there a decent way to shore up the sump bracket....the one that breaks if you torque it too much??

Rich

Just commit to memory - it's only 7 ft lbs. Since most torque wrenches don't go that low, it's good to also have an inch lb wrench (84 inch lbs).

[r_towle]

is there a decent way to shore up the sump bracket....the one that breaks if you torque it too much??

Rich

Just commit to memory - it's only 7 ft lbs. Since most torque wrenches don't go that low, it's good to also have an inch lb wrench (84 inch lbs).

Just Curious if there is some additional welding that might help add some support to that part or area....

[ww914]

This will be fun to follow. I always wondered how you did the magic on my still running strong 2270.

[jimkelly]

what does a 2270 long block (minus core charge) run these days?

http://www.originalcustoms.com/engines.php

what's the ruling on a 2270, can it run well on D jet or L jet - OR - must it be dual carbs or aftermarket electronic fuel injection?

looks like jake switched from SDS to TEC some years ago.
http://www.sdsefi.com/specific.html

http://www.electromotive-inc.com/product/t...engine-control/

http://www.racetep.com/tec3.htm

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/index.php/fuel-injection

jim

[JStroud]

Is this motor for one of your cars, or a customer? And any reason to start with a 1.7 case?


Jeff

[McMark]

Just Curious if there is some additional welding that might help add some support to that part or area....

Not that I know of. I've only seen one case where this happened. I don't use a torque wrench, but I do use sealant on the gaskets since that sump plate doesn't get opened up very often.

what does a 2270 long block (minus core charge) run these days?

In the $7k neighborhood.

what's the ruling on a 2270, can it run well on D jet or L jet - OR - must it be dual carbs or aftermarket electronic fuel injection?

There is a thread running right now about L-Jet on a 2270. I think any stock FI would be a kludge. Carbs or aftermarket FI will always be my recommendation. And I'm not a huge fan of carbs, unless you spend a lot of time (i.e. $) on them to make them really nice.

Is this motor for one of your cars, or a customer? And any reason to start with a 1.7 case?

This is for me. I have four cars ya know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
The cases are all pretty much the same, so whatever measures good. I tend to feel that the 1.7 engines had an easier life, but this case was literally just pulled from the pile and happened to be a W case.

[McMark]

Better clarity about the 'normal five' plugs.



Here is the section that cracks if you torque the sump plate too much. As I mentioned previously, I don't really consider this a problem since it only ever breaks because of people cranking down on the bolt to try and stop a leak (or just plain overdoing it). Use a sealant on the gaskets and the center nut and tighten lightly. If it leaks, pull it all off, clean up the old sealant and gasket and start over, or look for nicks or a variance between where the two case halves come together.

[Bulldog9]

Better clarity about the 'normal five' plugs.

Looks like a great build! will be following closely. I'm almost to the point of final cleaning and assembly of my motor (2056).

So, my P mechanic, 30 year owner of a highly reputible Porsche only Shop who owns and still races a 914 (along with 4-5 other 930's etc) says that the galley plugs is a waste of time and introduces more problems than it solves...... He insists it is not a case of better safe than sorry it is a case of waste of time and will be sorry. oy veh... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I'm not wanting to argue or debate, I have NO frame of reference other than the forums and his word, which are obviously in conflict. So, though I know it is fashionable to do this, I'd love to see what peoples experiences are. Who is running their Type 4 (be it in a 914, 912, Bus/Transporter/Bug with and without galley plugs. Has anyone actually blowen one? How deep are the plugs? My apologies if this is thread jacking, so please PM me and not take away from this thread.

Bottomline if I do these (I did buy them) I am going to have to find a new mechanic/shop. Took me 6 months to find this guy.....

[McMark]

They absolutely have blown on people. You see a thread pop up about it every 6 months or so. But only those five because the rest are smaller. The oiling system all sees the same psi, but if you actually do the math on psi as pounds per square inch it's lower force. This is an incorrect, oversimplification, but essentially a 1" plug at 50 psi, sees 50 pounds of force where a 1/2" plug at 50 psi would see 25 pounds of force. Right idea there, just bad math (the are area of a 1/2" plug isn't half of a 1" plug).

[mrbubblehead]

i do every single plug. if for any reason to get in there to clean. and to keep from blowing. plugs are cheap.

[Dave_Darling]

They absolutely have blown on people.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

My old 1.8 did. I started the car, the oil light came back on again, I reved it a little, the light went out and came on again. I shut it off right there, and got out to look. I saw the plug and the nice puddle of oil--it was quite sizeable!

My mechanic replaced the plug (I think with another expansion plug, but I'm not sure) and re-filled the oil and I was good to go.

--DD

[rwilner]

Hey Mark, what's the plan for induction? (Sorry if you mentioned it and I missed it)

[edwin]

Dad had a plug let go on a 2ltr and it made a huge mess. Right behind the flywheel and covered the clutch in oil.

[Dr Evil]

Cool (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)