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> Bought a part here that was blatently misreprsented, How would you feel ??
sixnotfour
post May 2 2014, 12:49 PM
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The spray foam (right above the latch) is the root of all evil...it needs to be eradicated before any preservation methods are applied.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)


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ripper911
post May 2 2014, 12:55 PM
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QUOTE(Qarl @ May 2 2014, 02:47 PM) *

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i921.photobucket.com-11654-1399056899.1.jpg)
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76-914
post May 2 2014, 01:07 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 1 2014, 11:30 PM) *

QUOTE(Larmo63 @ May 1 2014, 10:19 PM) *
Isn't this how the Civil War started?

Over rust? Admittedly, my US history knowledge is 3rd hand and lacking, but i don't remember that part ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Good one. Who said Germans have no sense of humor?
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Cevan
post May 2 2014, 01:07 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ May 2 2014, 03:08 AM) *

Sheesh. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

I REALLY wish you had been more clear when you picked up the lid. I would have given you a full refund on the spot because I know Rob and I know that's exactly what he would do. I heard you say, "Sheesh, this has some rust on the lower edge. Oh well, I paid for it, I'll take it home."

Next time ask for pictures. The rust-free you're looking for doesn't exist. All the lids were built 40 years ago and all of them have seen weather, or at least condensation.


A couple points:

1. My trunk lid did not have any observable rust on it, so they do exist.

2. If a member with as many posts as ConeDodger says "no rust", I would take those words for what they mean, especially if it was in response to my inquiry prefaced with my contention that presence of rust and straightness were of upmost importance to me.

3. Ask for more photos if you're buying online. If the seller won't give them, move on.
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rick 918-S
post May 2 2014, 01:30 PM
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QUOTE(jmalone @ May 2 2014, 11:19 AM) *

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ May 1 2014, 07:08 PM) *

ALL 914 parts now have surface rust. Even NOS stuff has rust now. If you know how to treat and stop it it will out last you. If I were closer I would gladly give you $ 200.00 for that lid. The 6 I purchased from California had rust through the rear lid above the latch. It happens. I purchased a lid from a car in Vegas. I'm picking it up when I get out west.

If you fixed rust holes in your lid with lead your asking for it to blow up in your face. There is a big stupid piece of foam in the cavity above the latch. The heat required to tin the metal and blend the solder is plenty enough to cause oxidation to start forming. Any thin metal you didn't find are now on an accelerated path to failure. Did you get a year or two out of that repair? you were lucky.

Here's how you treat the inner structure and inner lid assuming you have no holes. First use a scraper, piece of sheet metal, sand paper or anything you can get to scrape loose any scale you can get to between the inner structure and outer lid. Wash the area out with your favorite rust converter. Be sure to neutralize the converter and use heat to dry the lids inner structure. Media blast the part to remove the paint and surface rust.

Purchase Eastwoods rust encapsulator in a spray can. http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-...ce-aerosol.html This product has an awesome spray nozzle that fans the product as it sprays.

Mask the gap all the way around the inner structure to seal the space. Use the hinge, latch and bump stop holes to inject and flood the encapsulator into the sealed space. It's thin enough to seep through the pinch weld flanges.

I have used this method on lids with surface rust showing. The key is to take your time and get the scale off as good as you can.



Rick, Thanks so much for your clearly written and well thought out reply. It really is this sort of field proven well thought out information that helps so many of us here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)


Glad to help. I live in the 914 rust belt. I have to be extra careful when I invest time repairing stuff as this climate will cause rust that will kick yer arse and eat your parts faster than a champion in a hamburger eating contest can down his fill. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/burger.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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lonewolfe
post May 2 2014, 01:57 PM
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That just looks like surface rust to me. Get that lid bead blasted, put some rust inhibitor along the seems for peace of mind, paint it and it will be good for another 40 years. That lid is really pretty nice from what I see.
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Porschef
post May 2 2014, 06:57 PM
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Nien, nein, nein.

Enough fuchin drama. Nobody's happy, so here's how it works.

Rust is rust. Free or not. Pay the guy the cost of shipping it back, give him a refund upon receipt, and sell it to someone who's happy to pay the cost. Is this difficult?

Jeez...can't this be easy?
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SirAndy
post May 3 2014, 02:03 AM
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Alright, we're done here, closing this thread ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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