A question for you 6 owners, 914-6 Tune up Options

[mr914]

How do you do a ignition tune up on a 6? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

I see the dizzy way down there in the front of the motor...

Do you have to drop the engine out to get to it, or do you need to find an accomplished 12 year old?

How many have modified the firewall for access?

[mskala]

This topic has been (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) over on another list.
I don't think firewall changes are necessary, but some
do. You will need to be able to feel for things like the
nut for the clamp to adjust it, and the nut that will
allow you to remove the whole thing.

You will need to adjust more often if you have the
original points system, which wears, but you will find
that if you have the original Marelli dist (very tall cap),
there are no 'points replacement' systems out there,
so people switch to a Bosch equivalent ($$). I myself
was lucky to find a marelli modified with a prototype
optical system and I use that.

Set the engine at TDC #1 and note where the rotor
is pointing, to within a few degrees. Remove the nut
that holds the whole distributor in and just pull it out
(oh yeah, remove the wire going to the points first).
The gear has very few teeth, so you won't have to
work hard to get it back in the same position. Set the
points gap on the bench. Once you get confident and
know where things are, you could probably regap the
points while it's in the car, since the exact gap is not
important (CD system). Adjust dist with the engine
off so the points to open right at TDC #1. Then time
to 35 degrees at 6000 RPM. There are markings on
the flywheel (Z1 for TDC, 35 for 35), since the pulley
is impossible to see in a 914.
Mark S.
'70 914-6

[Brad Roberts]

I was going to answer, but I can see I dont need too now. Nice write up Mark.

B

[J P Stein]

Izat' an original 6 or one you can cut holes in?
I'm a firm beliver in firewall holes but wouldn't do it to an original 6. My little rat bastard has no such restrictions. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[mr914]

Thank you Mark for the informative post. Being a 4 owner for 22 years, I've never fiddled with a 6....

[mlindner]

I like having the fire wall access panel. A must for replacing or tightening the fan belt. Again this is not a original six. Mark

[Robarabian]

Before you remove the dizzy, get your air compressor in there to blow out any dust / dirt that may fall in when you pull it.

Also, once the pulley is at TDC, look at the flywheel and make sure of the TDC marking there before you start trying to time things. Sometimes things are not aligned the way they should be.

Im considering a 123 ignition, but mine is not a factory 6 either...

[infraredcalvin]

Resurrected from 2003 guys…

[tpines]

I like having the fire wall access panel. A must for replacing or tightening the fan belt. Again this is not a original six. Mark

Hi Mark,
I think I might have already messaged you about this but if not please consider headrests for safety. Very cool car you have!

Clark

[porschetub]

Resurrected from 2003 guys…

whats wrong with that ,still current to today.

[Cairo94507]

I would not cut the firewall on an original 6; we did not cut mine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Steve]

When I had my 2.7, i installed a pertronix ignitor to replace the points. It never failed on me. My flywheel had the timing marks on it, so it was simple to rev the motor to 6k and turn the distributor to adjust. You do not need to cut the firewall to replace a fan belt or get to the distributor. I only recently cut mine, so I could replace the alternator without the dropping the engine. My current motor is a 3.2,

[Jett]

FYI if anyone is interested… my mechanic/friend has two Marelli dists NOS in boxes… he bought them many years ago.

[ClayPerrine]

Porsche Classic now sells a cap and rotor set for the Marelli Distributor in a factory six.

Pertronix now sells an electronic ignition module for the Marelli distributor for a 914-6.


Clay

[fixer34]

It has been many years since I set the timing on my -6, mainly because I drove it very little, but I do remember the process.

I switched to a Bosch 911T distributor 40 years ago because I was having trouble finding Marelli parts even back then.
Remove air cleaner.
set TDC mark on the flywheel for cylinder 1. you are using the case opening back by the transmission as you can't see the front pulley.
remove distributor, replace/gap points as needed, reinstall keeping rotor lined up with mark on distributor housing. snug the retaining bolt just enough to keep the distributor from rotating on its own, but you can move it in small increments with your hand.
Now the fun begins. Attach the timing light to plug wire 1, start the engine, let it warm up and have someone bring it up to 6000 rpm. this is best done by someone sitting in the driver seat.
Lean over the 3 open carb stacks with the engine screaming in your ear and check the timing mark with the light. If needed, reach down with your right hand and turn the distributor ever so slightly to adjust the timing. You probably have a 50-50 chance of picking the right direction. Be aware there is a fast moving alternator belt just inches from that hand.
Get the timing mark lined up with the pointer on the case and slowly tighten the retaining bolt. After each half turn, recheck the timing to make sure it hasn't moved.
Once it is set, take it back to idle, reinstall the air cleaner, and take it out for a drive.

[brant]

So much easier

I check it annually on the winter maintenance list

[porschetub]

So much easier

I check it annually on the winter maintenance list

Nice ,cut mine the same way but still tight and some danger when moving the dizzy,if you go to pointless ignition you have removed 2 adjustments and if you have a worn drive shaft bearings another problem solved .
First job after getting my car running was to cut the "hole" for tuning ,no regrets but sad to do it on a real "6" .

[gulf908]

every time I have significant work done,I get my mechanic to drop the motor
at the same time,I get the fan belt changed regardless of mileage and any random oil leaks fixed that were not there last time plus any other minor 'while you're there' jobs done
Unless you are the mythical Sloniger 'asbestos octopus' the motor is very inconvenient to work on while in the car
to me,everything else about the car is a big positive but the maintenance/working enviroment was certainly an afterthought
I am totally aghast that in this day and age that anyone would cut bodywork in an original -6 to do such minor routine work - shame !!

cheers
Dennis (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[wonkipop]

factory didn't mind doing it on their own GTs!

makes it sort of semi legit? or at least common sense.




personally i find it bad enough screwing around with belt adjustment on the alternator on my 4. thats when you realise the type 4 engine would be a breeze to work on in the car it was designed for....which was not a 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[jhynesrockmtn]

I dropped the motor on my GT 6 Tribute and while it was out installed a 123 distributor. Motor is original 914-6 built to 2.4. So far so good. If I keep it long term I'll consider cutting the firewall. I also dropped the motor last winter on my 1970 1.7 and installed a 123. That also went well. So far I'm a fan.