Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. Options

[Cracker]

Cali: The coolant temp depends on the air temp and whether I'm stuck in traffic or on a race track. On a hot Summer day rolling it will get to 185-190; Hot day stopped traffic - 205; Hot full blown sustained racing - 215-225 (depending upon conditions).

LS engines make their best power HOT; 230 is where you need to really take notice that you have reached the tipping point. All the best.

PS: My chassis was a multi-owner water pumper before I ever acquired it...Bob (BigKat) and I have a good friend Larry C. (Spaceshuttle) who I purchased the roller from - Larry did the hood on my car well before I ever bought it. The inner fenders were cut before he purchased it too. I tape off about 90% of the fender venting to force the heat out the hood. JFYI for all...

T

[914forme]

Only thing with hood venting is you can feel the heat roll around the A-pliars and then dump into the cabin if you have the windows open. Not a big deal you can just tell it is there.

[Cracker]

That hasn't been my experience at all...my footwells do heat up - to the touch (I do not have carpet or insulation on them) but I have never felt noticeable heated-air enter through the windows. I don't have windows either, as I have a full cage...it could be your system is simply different and draws it in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


T

Only thing with hood venting is you can feel the heat roll around the A-pliars and then dump into the cabin if you have the windows open. Not a big deal you can just tell it is there.

[Andyrew]

Its been my experience that you can feel the heat. Only if you put your hand up there by the windshield or by the a pillar. Its particularly noticeable at the windshield.

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

Dang, I can't believe all of the responses... thank you very much! I will read them all and of course, I'll have more questions! ;-). Right now, I'm trying to get my daily driver back on the road. Look up BMW 545 oil leaks and you will see what I'm up against! Just replaced the oil pan gasket and now it's time for the shake down test! Ciao for now!

[jd74914]

LS engines make their best power HOT; 230 is where you need to really take notice that you have reached the tipping point. All the best.

Tangentially-related to cooling, but hot is actually better for cylinder wall wear per some studies done by Caterpillar so assuming you don't have piston/cylinder head overheating issues (tight clearances, etc.) its better to have a higher pressure radiator cap and run hotter rather than cooler.

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

Hey all,

I had a chance to draw up what I think will work on my car with a minimum of adding and removing hoses/connections etc... I did not include the addition of an electric water pump (yet)... I want to see what adding a header tank does to alleviate the run hot issue. Does it look like a viable plan?

[Chris914n6]

Header tank goes inline = same hose. I'd say off the t-stat since it's already the high point. Also if you have a blown head gasket it would be easy to tell with the nonstop burping.

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

I believe that is what I show with what I have marked as (1)... unless I do not understand by what you say "header tank goes inline = same hose". I do not think I have a head gasket issue. No white smoke, no oil in coolant or coolant in oil. The car has never overheated... it just runs on the hot side. Can you clarify what you mean?

[BIGKAT_83]

Hey all,

I had a chance to draw up what I think will work on my car with a minimum of adding and removing hoses/connections etc... I did not include the addition of an electric water pump (yet)... I want to see what adding a header tank does to alleviate the run hot issue. Does it look like a viable plan?

You got it right. #1 hose needs to be a small 1/4 to 3/8 inside diameter#2 hose needs to be larger 3/4 and as close to the intake of the water pump as you can get it.
This will self bleed the air out of the system. Fill it up and run it thru a couple of heat cycles.

[Chris914n6]

I'll admit I don't have a sbc, so I don't get why anyone would do it that way. Inline, as in all the water flows thru it.

Can't upload a pic as the new Google Photos doesn't link. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)

[veekry9]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

In and Out holes.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

A handy and necessary device from 100 yrs ago.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

The header tanks are there only to be a place for the steam to go,the highest points.
Large flows through the header tank is not needed,merely a path for steam.
A one line header tank is also functional,as is desirable at the front.
A sight glass,or plastic tube,may be temporarily installed to determine the rate of steam accumulation.
Taking a long drive in heavy and hot conditions will stress the system,building steam in the top of the rad.
Make certain the pump and pipes system can flow the minimum LS cooling flow,~55-65+ gpm.
A decent copy of a truck's cooling system is a good start,other than the remote radiator,pump and restrictive pipes.
Build your shroud to pull air through all of the radiator,make certain the airflow at 20 mph is sufficient.
Use a manometer to check pressures fore and aft of the rad,then calculate airflow.
A checklist of changes from stock configuration will point to errors,as the design has been well flogged.
A 55 gal drum should be filled in less than 60 secs,at maximum,by the pipes and pumps used.
Running @ 2K rpm,a flow of not less than 20 gpm is necessary to cool the LS.
Reducing the diameters of the pipes will yield a smaller,and hotter flow.
Stick to the LS thermostat,setting the operating temperature,and flows.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=ls+water+pum...water+pump+flow
https://www.google.ca/search?q=manometer+cu...anometer+custom
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...=thermodynamics
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...al%20conduction
https://books.google.ca/books?id=y1XuAgAAQB...ics&f=false
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/...sure-21680.html
/
The Python look,to cool an LS.Anything else is just skinny,not cool. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...0844&st=723
Don't agree tho,with hanging them below the floor pan,inviting torn hoses by road trash.
/

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

Thanks veekry9! Your expansion tank connection points look slightly different than what Bob (BIGKAT_83) recommends.

Anyway; I'm looking at expansion/header tanks but there are so many out there! Any one know of good model/part number that will work for my application? I believe I need a model that has a 0.75 inch port on the bottom, a 0.25 to 0.375 inch port on the side about half way up; a pressure cap of around 16 psi and a port just below the cap for overflow. Any suggestions?

[914forme]

VW Death Star, works great.

[Chris914n6]

MR2 system. MORE PICS

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/k43.pbase.com-431-1471130563.1.jpg)

Other notes... heater will work sooner and hotter if it comes straight off the engine like factory.

[veekry9]

Great pix,and a way to scale the requirements for the hp of the LS.So,double++ everything,pipes,too.
A set of insulated hard pipes through the cabin,by the console stamping,or the longs,inside or out.
/
Simply have a look at the average LS powered truck,use those numbers and sizes as minimums.
The Celica and MR2 systems are for low hp applications.
The truck rad's inlet pipe ID defines the minimum inside diameter of the pipes forward.
With a rad of suitable 'capacity'and the minimum flows,you can keep your cool.
Wouldn't want to be a hot head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
Good luck with the cooling system.
/

[Chris914n6]

Great pix,and a way to scale the requirements for the hp of the LS.So,double++ everything,pipes,too.
A set of insulated hard pipes through the cabin,by the console stamping,or the longs,inside or out.
/

Double the research effort there Veek... it's nearly the same size as the Celica radiator and used 1 3/8" hose.

But the point was the design, and it's a cool pic.

[Rand]

Double the research effort there Veek...

You do not know of which you ask! (or you do?)

The floodgates are already open, be careful what you ask for.

[veekry9]

Cooling?
BraveHelios was inquiring advice.None to give?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[BRAVE_HELIOS]

Almost ready to take things apart one more time. So how crucial is it to use wye connectors versus Tee connectors? I spotted these on amazon (see picture):

https://www.amazon.com/Water-Temp-Joint-Pip...+Sensor+Adapter

And it would be much easier (and cheaper) for me to install the correct sized NPT barbed nipple to this adapter versus getting a custom wye connector.