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> I started to Putting together my SIX
Racing916
post Apr 25 2005, 06:37 AM
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Looks Sweet!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)
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J P Stein
post Apr 25 2005, 07:39 AM
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QUOTE (iamchappy @ Apr 25 2005, 04:15 AM)
JP, I am considering rebuilding my 3.0. Most people I talk to are trying to scare me away from the idea. I would like to do it as the experience gained by a successful rebuild would end my fears if I every had to dig into it again. Should I try it?

Go for it.It ain't rocket science. I found it to be....interesting . The sweat didn't start rolling down the crack of my ass till I turned the key (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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Root_Werks
post Apr 25 2005, 08:22 AM
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Cool, another six! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)
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sixnotfour
post Apr 25 2005, 09:54 AM
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WorldPac - calls em rocker shaft orings P/N 911-099-103-52

I am sure some one on East coast has em, if not let me know.

Lookin good (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/burnout.gif)
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Kerrys914
post Apr 25 2005, 05:47 PM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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Thanks..

Here is what I did to keep track of the valve train.

ZIP bags for each valve (1I, 1E, 2I, 2E, 3I, 3E..etc)

Might be overkill but better safe the sorry.


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ArtechnikA
post Apr 25 2005, 08:12 PM
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QUOTE (TimT @ Apr 24 2005, 08:54 PM)
my way of saying I have a few sets of 935 seals... want some?

i think they actually started with the 911RSR; there are pictures in Anderson...

i can use a couple of sets if the price is right...
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Kerrys914
post Apr 28 2005, 07:19 PM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

Okay I am doing my Sproket Alignment and using Wayne's book.

The only things I have done to this engine is a basic top-end rebuild. I would have thought this would be correct since I haven't changed anything about this alignment. I kept the two side in seperate containers until they went back on (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

I am getting a intermediate shaft distance of 52.02'ish (face of case to shaft). My right sprocket comest to 51.06'ish (case to face of sprocket). I did this 4-5 times and they are all very close to each other.

To meet my delta of .25mm I need to get to 51.75'ish which is 3 shims less then I have right now.

Could the engine have ran well fo rthe PO if it was that far off? Mayeb I am missing something here? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

Cheers
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TimT
post Apr 28 2005, 07:27 PM
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QUOTE
Could the engine have ran well fo rthe PO if it was that far off? Mayeb I am missing something here?


Yes the engine would run just fine with the sprockets misaligned.

It would wear the sprockets/chains more quickly though.
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Kerrys914
post May 11 2005, 11:02 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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Okay I found out my dizzy is from a "E" (0231159 006) engine and I believe I have a "T" engine. The PO said it was a "T" so I took it at that.

I have the cam timing set but still have the dial indicator set up on the intake valve. Can I just measure the Intake valve travel and compare my measured value to the specs for the "T" and "E" cams? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif)

The only markings I can see now are the dot and an "03" stamped on the end of the cam.

Cheers (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif)
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ArtechnikA
post May 11 2005, 11:11 AM
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QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ May 11 2005, 01:02 PM)
Okay I found out my dizzy is from a "E" (0231159 006) engine and I believe I have a "T" engine. The PO said it was a "T" so I took it at that.

I have the cam timing set but still have the dial indicator set up on the intake valve. Can I just measure the Intake valve travel and compare my measured value to the specs for the "T" and "E" cams? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif)

The only markings I can see now are the dot and an "03" stamped on the end of the cam.

Cheers (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif)

'course that'll only tell you what your cam is, not your pistons.
but you had your heads off, yes - did they look like T pistons?

anyway - sure - go for it...

but you should know that the valve timimg specs are significantly different for T cams as opposed to E cams...

T cams time to 2,5mm +/- 0,2 TDC overlap with 0,1mm clearance
E cams time to 3,15mm +/- 0,15 TDC overlap with 0,1mm clearance

T total lift, intake, is 36,25mm
E total lift, intake, is 36,58mm

so ya better measure real accurately.
(the BIG difference is on the exhaust, and the duration...)
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J P Stein
post May 11 2005, 11:28 AM
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QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ May 11 2005, 09:02 AM)


I have the cam timing set but still have the dial indicator set up on the intake valve. Can I just measure the Intake valve travel and compare my measured value to the specs for the "T" and "E" cams? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif)

Yes. There is enuff diference between the 2 to tell which it is.
Ya prolly shoulda done that before you set the timing, but no harm, no foul.

I measured a set of suspected T cams with a pair of calipers.....figuring I'd get within .010-.020.... top of lobe to backside minus base circle X 1.5 (I'm told that 1.5 ratio is actully varible by .01 either way due to the actual point of contact rides is about a .08 wide band)...came out with in .003 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)
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Kerrys914
post May 11 2005, 11:35 AM
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Well since the engine case numbers were "T" and the PO said they were "T" I assumed ( I know) it was a "T".

I know my cams are timed to the 2.5mm spec right now. So the total lift from closed to full open is 36.25mm.

I'll check that now. Looks like that wors out to be 1.427" for "T" and 1.440 for the "E". Wish me luck (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)
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J P Stein
post May 11 2005, 11:43 AM
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Ah.....just in case you're calibrated in English units, total lift at the valve for the T is .387", .408 for the E per Mr. Anderson's book.

(edit) -.004 lash.
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Kerrys914
post May 11 2005, 11:54 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) I am getting .379 on the #4 intake and .379 (a bit under .3785) on #1 intake.

Looks like I do not have an "E" cam in there.
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ArtechnikA
post May 11 2005, 12:12 PM
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the spec book lists those numbers (~36mm) in a big table column labelled "Cam Lift" but i'm having a hard time understanding what that means, exactly - unless it's the total linear distance between the bottom of th sbase circle and the top of the lobe.

the E Exhaust lift (per Anderson) is 0.393" (which could be 0.397" if you didn't account for the 0.004" valve lash). so the "gotta ask" hard questions: are you sure you're on the intake valve, and are you sure you have the Right cam on the right side, and the Left cam on the Left side ?

(not questioning your abilities - but - gotta ask - and if you *did* confuse them - first - you wouldn't be the first, and second - wouldn't you rather know now rather than when the engine wanted to turn backward ?
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Kerrys914
post May 11 2005, 12:29 PM
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No problem on the questions.

- I am measuring from the intake valves (the ones on the top)
- I put the "Big V" cam on the left and the " tight V" cam on the right. The Left is 1,2,3 cylinders (Left looking at the fan).

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J P Stein
post May 11 2005, 12:33 PM
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A few vairables.
Lash counts as My edit says above.
The dial indicator must be rock solid.
If it is the long travel type with a straight plunger & about a .150 point, it must be as perpendicular as you can get it to the spring cap or you'll get a bit of cosine error. ......wear on a used cam is gonna effect it also.

I'd say your well with in the probability field (.004), me thinks.
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Kerrys914
post May 11 2005, 12:38 PM
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I am using the "Z" tool to hold the dial. Not sure when the dial was last calibrated but it seemed okay and YES I do have a long travel dial. It measures .001 up to 2" of travel.

I'll breakdown the setup and retake the measurements with no valve lash.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif)
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Kerrys914
post May 11 2005, 12:46 PM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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Okay I now have .384" with no valve lash, the cam is used so that seems okay for the "T" spec cam.

Looks like my valve lash was .005 before. I guess I need to plan on more drag on the feeler gauge next time.

So since I have a "T" spec cam and a "E" spec dizzy what performance issues will I expect?
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Kerrys914
post May 12 2005, 09:14 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif)
Does anyone have a timing mark template for a non-914/6 flywheel? Seems like most people just say to put the two flywheels next to each other and just xfer the marks BUT... I don't have a real 914/6 flywheel to do that with (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

Cheers


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