How to inspect the underside and longs without a lift, - Exhaust shield some assembly required Options

[Montreal914]

Nice gap line! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

That cut extension repair is not even visible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[seanpaulmc]

Taking advantage of the nice sunny weather and working to get weld mostly done.
Vertical weld on the quarter panel - check.
Splicing of the tail panel- check.
Welds along the rain channel - half check.







There is an obvious rust spot needing repair in the original tail panel but I don’t think it will be too bad.

Not so obvious to me anyway is that it appears my original quarters have been pulled out ever so slightly. I noticed this because the donor is very straight along the arch and the lip of the two pieces will some working to fit up. The lines look okay but it will need shaping. After that I’ll get a profile off the good side to check it against the donor.

Pleased to have gotten this far with the install this weekend.

Cheers

[seanpaulmc]

Going after these rosette welds in the rain channel of the quarter panel.
As you can see there is some porosity.
Is the right thing to do to back re-weld and re-grind?
Or, is some of this okay to leave as-is?





The bigger spots I’ll go after with the welder but I was wondering if primer and paint take care of the rest.
I’m asking because remember I have never done this before.

I do appreciate the feedback.

Thanks!

[didenpx]

Sean,

Congrats on the great progress!

I’d grind flush and then weld any pits still remaining. Just a quick blip on the trigger so not a lot of grinding.

Why are those showing up though? You may need to clean the area around the rosette a bit further back.

Paul

[friethmiller]

AI to the rescue... "Porosity in welding is a defect caused by trapped gases (nitrogen, oxygen, or hydrogen) forming voids or "holes" in the weld metal as it solidifies. Often caused by inadequate shielding gas, dirty base metal, or high moisture/humidity, it weakens the joint and can lead to structural failure. Prevention includes cleaning, checking gas flow, and protecting the weld pool."

Not bad at all! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

My guess is the shielding gas being too low but cleaning up dirt and grease, and grinding back paint is always advised. Visibility is crucial in making sure you don't leave a bunch of what I call "moon-crescents". Auto-dimming masks can help a lot for getting you aligned. I'd also recommend trying to weld in a slow spiral pattern from the middle to the outside of the hole. This will help you get a full round puddle that will cover the entire area.

[seanpaulmc]

Paul, Fred - thanks for the feedback. Yes, I see you are both right.

I did not clean the paint down to bright shiny metal like where I was doing for the butt welds on the panels.
Florida humidity - check
Dirty base metal - check
No shielding gas - check

On my second or third "spot" weld I ran out of wire. Glad that didn't happen when I was doing the weld on the quarter panel. I changed out the spool and had turned off the gas when spooling up since the tank is pretty low. I jumped right back into the rosette welds but forgot to turn the gas back on right away. It took me a few welds to figure it out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I'll go after these holes and get them cleaned up. Thanks for the advice.

-Sean

[friethmiller]

I jumped right back into the rosette welds but forgot to turn the gas back on right away. It took me a few welds to figure it out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

This is what I do! I come back from lunch and forget I turned off the gas. There typically is enough gas in the line for the first weld but the next one looks like pumice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Here's my example.

[930cabman]

I wouldn't, lose sleep over the porosity, maybe the base metal was not as clean as it should have been.

[seanpaulmc]

A little refurbishment work on the side. Good as used!



I do need to weld in the rear sway bar mounts after the trunk floor gets replaced after the quarter and tail panel work get completed. But it’s fun to have something finished even if it’s going on the shelf for a while.

[orangecrate]

Stand on the door sill. Jump up and down heavily. Assess damage. Proceed accordimgly. Buy a GOOD welding machine. You can always sell it later. Miller or Lincoln.

[seanpaulmc]

Stand on the door sill. Jump up and down heavily. Assess damage. Proceed accordimgly. Buy a GOOD welding machine. You can always sell it later. Miller or Lincoln.

I should probably update the name of this thread but thanks for the feedback.
Longs are good. Have added the Maddog stiffening kit during repairs.

[seanpaulmc]

Tail light and area and quarter panel work continue.

This took some time. Inner fender, cut off the bad and weld in a new section of good metal.





Still need to do the upper part of the inner panel where it attaches to the taillight area.

I’m gonna need to find the taillight for trail fit soon. I’m can’t remember if I bought a replacement or not.

[930cabman]

Isn't the splice outside of the tail light housing?

should fall right in

[friethmiller]

I’m gonna need to find the taillight for trail fit soon. I’m can’t remember if I bought a replacement or not.

Make sure the depth is correct for the light assembly. Meaning... that the taillight with the seal will seat properly in the recess in the fender. You're probably good but might as well check. It's way easier to fix this now.

[seanpaulmc]

Isn't the splice outside of the tail light housing?

should fall right in

I wish!

Much like my 914 in general, this donor section came with some assembly required. here are two splices on the tail panel section.

First, is right down the middle of the taillight's recess section. I had to piece the donor back together.
The second splice is where it is welded to the existing tail panel outside of the tail light area.

Also, I had to fabricate and rebuild the lower outside corner of the donor quarter due to needed rust repair.

I hope it drops right in but it may still need some persuasion.

[seanpaulmc]

I’m gonna need to find the taillight for trail fit soon. I’m can’t remember if I bought a replacement or not.

Make sure the depth is correct for the light assembly. Meaning... that the taillight with the seal will seat properly in the recess in the fender. You're probably good but might as well check. It's way easier to fix this now.

Will do.
I just have to find that taillight. The one I took off the car looked like it was in a fire. It was very malformed.

I appreciate the advice.

[930cabman]

Isn't the splice outside of the tail light housing?

should fall right in

I wish!

Much like my 914 in general, this donor section came with some assembly required. here are two splices on the tail panel section.

First, is right down the middle of the taillight's recess section. I had to piece the donor back together.
The second splice is where it is welded to the existing tail panel outside of the tail light area.

Also, I had to fabricate and rebuild the lower outside corner of the donor quarter due to needed rust repair.

I hope it drops right in but it may still need some persuasion.

We do seem to enjoy getting making these challenges more challenging (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[HFC3]

I read your thread today from beginning to end. You’ve made tremendous progress.
I love your T-shirt collection, your measuring system and your ability to stay on task!

[seanpaulmc]

I read your thread today from beginning to end. You’ve made tremendous progress.
I love your T-shirt collection, your measuring system and your ability to stay on task!

I appreciate the kind words. I’m doing what I can, when I can, and learning it all along the way. I think the dates in this thread reflect that.

For someone who’s truly on task check out Fred’s LE Backyard Restoration thread if you haven’t yet. It’s inspirational seeing what a good dose of skill can really do.

I do take some satisfaction in thinking I’m saving this one. It’s getting there.

[seanpaulmc]

Found it!



Here’s compared to the one that came out. Easy to see the heat damage.



I’m gonna need another one of those plastic cone nuts that hold the lens on. Anyone?

Also, I’ve got overspray everywhere. With these being plastic pieces, what is recommended to clean the overspray?