Replacement Relay Socket Panel, Updated: Version 3 - Solid State Relays and Fuse Panel Replacement |
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Replacement Relay Socket Panel, Updated: Version 3 - Solid State Relays and Fuse Panel Replacement |
Evan0 |
Apr 30 2017, 10:12 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 13-February 17 From: Southern California Member No.: 20,837 Region Association: Southern California |
Update 3 Post
I've been rewiring my car for the last few weeks and part of that was replacing the factory fuse panel with one that uses modern fuse from JWest Engineering. I was unhappy with the existing relay sockets that I found. As a result of that, I designed and printed a monolithic fuse socket for all the relays, buzzer, and flasher unit. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-20837-1493568735.1.jpg) After mounting it to the fuse panel. The buzzer is a Hella H35394001. The horn, blower, and fog relays are Hella 933332051. The flasher unit is a Hella 009492101. The head light relay is a modern reproduction of the VW one. Still waiting on the flasher unit to ship. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-20837-1493568735.2.jpg) I'll be posting the STL files, Bill of Materials, and instructions after I've worked out a few kinks. I would love any feedback or suggestions on improvements. |
JeffBowlsby |
May 20 2017, 07:55 AM
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#2
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914 Wiring Harnesses Group: Members Posts: 8,490 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None |
The main issues I see are that:
1. The new fuse block mount on another version (not yours) had a metal strap that would short against the power terminal block on the 1970-72 cars. 2. The new stress put on the wiring to wire terminal juncture because of the side terminal locations rather than the original rear mount locations at the fusepanel. The ties organizing the wiring at the fuseblock needs to be loosened up or removed to give enough slack to connect the wires to their new side mount location. Stress on the wires over time will cause the wiring to fail at that stress point. 3. The new fuseblocks do not have the bussed together lugs that the factory fuseblocks do, so makeshift additional terminal busses are needed or the circuitry is altered to accommodate, making the factory wiring schematic useless for troubleshooting. 4. How well made are the new fuse blocks? The ones I have seen are of poor quality relative to the bakelite shell and solid brass fuse terminals of the factory original fuse blocks. People have been replacing the original fuse blocks to use the new style fuses and because some say that they repeatedly kick out the fuses when getting in/out of the car. In 40 years of driving 914s, I have never had any issues with the original fuse blocks. I don't see any benefit to change the fuse block, personally. Attached image(s) |
Evan0 |
May 20 2017, 11:41 AM
Post
#3
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 13-February 17 From: Southern California Member No.: 20,837 Region Association: Southern California |
The main issues I see are that: 1. The new fuse block mount on another version (not yours) had a metal strap that would short against the power terminal block on the 1970-72 cars. 2. The new stress put on the wiring to wire terminal juncture because of the side terminal locations rather than the original rear mount locations at the fusepanel. The ties organizing the wiring at the fuseblock needs to be loosened up or removed to give enough slack to connect the wires to their new side mount location. Stress on the wires over time will cause the wiring to fail at that stress point. 3. The new fuseblocks do not have the bussed together lugs that the factory fuseblocks do, so makeshift additional terminal busses are needed or the circuitry is altered to accommodate, making the factory wiring schematic useless for troubleshooting. 4. How well made are the new fuse blocks? The ones I have seen are of poor quality relative to the bakelite shell and solid brass fuse terminals of the factory original fuse blocks. People have been replacing the original fuse blocks to use the new style fuses and because some say that they repeatedly kick out the fuses when getting in/out of the car. In 40 years of driving 914s, I have never had any issues with the original fuse blocks. I don't see any benefit to change the fuse block, personally. Thanks for the info. I was wondering if that terminal block for battery power was factory or not. I will try to properly strain relief the wires as they are managed, but your right that it will eventually be an issue due to the tight spacing. The JWest blocks seems to be of good quality and it looks like the terminal blocks are properly bused together for 1-2, 3-4, and 10-12. For the flag connectors, I'm going with the Molex Vibrakrimp series of connectors. They have a insulation grip, which will help offload some stress from the conductor itself. Again, thanks for the insight, you and your site are invaluable resources. |
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