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> what is the best way to remove a ball joint without the tool?
tazz9924
post Jul 28 2017, 04:10 PM
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as the title states what is the best way to remove the ball joint from the control arm with out the proper tool?
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fixer34
post Jul 28 2017, 04:30 PM
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QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Jul 28 2017, 05:10 PM) *

as the title states what is the best way to remove the ball joint from the control arm with out the proper tool?


Are you replacing it, or just need it disconnected for other work?
The 'fork' usually destroys the rubber boot and therefore the ball joint.
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theer
post Jul 28 2017, 04:34 PM
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Try heating the housing (with a torch) then hold one hammer on one side and hit the opposite side with a second hammer. If there isn't too much rust, the combination of expansion from heat and vibration MIGHT cause the shaft to pop out.

Then go to AZ and rent the removal tool.

Good luck!

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Optimusglen
post Jul 28 2017, 04:34 PM
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He's wondering about the ball joint from the control arm not the ball joint from the strut housing.

Without the tool, I did both of mine by using a pliers like these, or a pipe wrench. Either style with a breaker bar.

The design of this tool means that the harder you squeeze to loosen the bolt, the tighter the jaws get on the bolt.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.hyperclaw.com-19709-1501281273.1.jpg)
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toolguy
post Jul 28 2017, 05:14 PM
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do you mean the steering tie rod to strut? Pickle fork or a BFH

OR

The ball joint in the control arm is the big 4 slot collar. . You can drive it around with a hammer and punch but it usually destroys the nut
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Mark Henry
post Jul 28 2017, 06:21 PM
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The round 4 slot nut on the bottom?

There's a jeep or is it ford 4WD front hub socket that's cheap at most auto parts stores. Not a perfect fit but good enough to do the job.
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Mark Henry
post Jul 28 2017, 06:28 PM
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I think it's this one https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648477-Sp...r/dp/B0015V1QF6
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rgalla9146
post Jul 28 2017, 06:49 PM
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The one that does the steering is a tie rod end.
The one at the bottom of the strut is the ball joint.
The tie rod end can be removed after loosening the nut by holding a BFH on one side
of the pitman arm while striking the opposite side with another large BFH
Be accurate. It will jump out from fright.
Thr balljoint can be removed with a BFH and a punch but the round 'nut' will be damaged. The locating tab on the control arm can be damaged too.
Don't be too aggressive.
Heat is your friend. Or the right tool which can be had for ~ $25 from
Baum Tools in Fla.
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mepstein
post Jul 28 2017, 06:59 PM
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Buy the proper tools. The pickle fork is cheap. The socket is $25-50 but you can use it to tighten as well. Use it on an impact wrench and removal is a piece of cake.
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Mitox
post Jul 28 2017, 06:59 PM
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Just buy the tool. As stated earlier they're less than $25, and it works quickly.
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porschetub
post Jul 28 2017, 07:08 PM
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Buy the tool,really not expensive,if you own a 914 and don't want to buy tools times will be hard..no question.
Don't use a "picklefork" they do a great job of ripping the balljoint boot unless you don't care or are replacing them.
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rgalla9146
post Jul 28 2017, 07:09 PM
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OOPS, I just checked at Baum tools.
It is now about $80.
Pelican offers two $108. OR $57.
It was $25. When I bought it.
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Valy
post Jul 28 2017, 07:48 PM
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The tool won't get that crown nut out. Use a big pipe wrench or chisel and hummer.
The tool only works to put them on.
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mepstein
post Jul 28 2017, 08:12 PM
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QUOTE(Valy @ Jul 28 2017, 09:48 PM) *

The tool won't get that crown nut out. Use a big pipe wrench or chisel and hummer.
The tool only works to put them on.

The one I have does a great job of removing the nut. It was the cheaper one at pelican. We have a better one at the shop that the guys use to remove the nuts day in and day out.
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914Sixer
post Jul 28 2017, 08:21 PM
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Make sure you soak the nut in PB Blaster overnight. Make sure your impact is rated for more than 250lbs. Make sure the socket is on correctly, it will be at an angle, not straight up and down. Nut should spin off with a quick burst of the trigger.

Use the correct tool!
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mepstein
post Jul 28 2017, 08:41 PM
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We use a lot of liquid heat at the shop to remove corroded nuts and bolts. Touch some wax to it once it's hot. Doesn't have the fumes like the solvent based penetrating oils.
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tazz9924
post Jul 29 2017, 02:01 AM
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i got in on and off real good with a pipe wrench and a jack handle. i may have made the pipe wrench look like a banana tho lol. thanks for all the replies, i would buy the tool but it would be more stuff for my to carry/store in my move! next time!
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cary
post Jul 29 2017, 08:17 AM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 28 2017, 07:12 PM) *

QUOTE(Valy @ Jul 28 2017, 09:48 PM) *

The tool won't get that crown nut out. Use a big pipe wrench or chisel and hummer.
The tool only works to put them on.

The one I have does a great job of removing the nut. It was the cheaper one at pelican. We have a better one at the shop that the guys use to remove the nuts day in and day out.


Like Mark, I have the cheaper one at MiddleMotors. Use a Baum/SIR at Rothsport.
2 chuga, chuga and its over.
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frostyf
post Sep 15 2020, 09:37 PM
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I wanted to ask for some tips or advice on this to avoid any damage!

I am trying to change my ball joints (73) which have rotted (rubber is cracked) Decided to buy the tool for the ball joint nut (Sir tool 4 pronged).

1. First off I've removed the cinch bolt from the base of the shock absorber but the ball joint pin seems firmly attached inside the base of the shock absorber/strut.

Can I heat that area to try and loosen it or does that risk damage to the shock/strut?

2. Is a pickle fork safe to use here, I'm concerned about damaging the control arm (not concerned about the ball jt as its going in the bin)

3. Is an impact driver best to remove the old balljoint nut (using the 4 pronged socket) or can you use a breaker bar? Same question for torquing up the new one. Wondered if people have used a thick walled ext bar on their breaker bar for more leverage?

4. Finally I've started this with the top hat and brake caliper still attached. Should I have removed these first?

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VaccaRabite
post Sep 16 2020, 06:26 AM
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QUOTE(frostyf @ Sep 15 2020, 11:37 PM) *

I wanted to ask for some tips or advice on this to avoid any damage!

I am trying to change my ball joints (73) which have rotted (rubber is cracked) Decided to buy the tool for the ball joint nut (Sir tool 4 pronged).

1. First off I've removed the cinch bolt from the base of the shock absorber but the ball joint pin seems firmly attached inside the base of the shock absorber/strut.

Can I heat that area to try and loosen it or does that risk damage to the shock/strut?

2. Is a pickle fork safe to use here, I'm concerned about damaging the control arm (not concerned about the ball jt as its going in the bin)

3. Is an impact driver best to remove the old balljoint nut (using the 4 pronged socket) or can you use a breaker bar? Same question for torquing up the new one. Wondered if people have used a thick walled ext bar on their breaker bar for more leverage?

4. Finally I've started this with the top hat and brake caliper still attached. Should I have removed these first?



The 4 prong tool is for install ONLY not removal.
For removal you need penetrating oil and the largest pipe wrench HD sells.

Trying to use the 4 prong tool for removal will only result in a broken tool. Don't even THINK of trying to put an air impact wrench on it.

Again. Take your #3 idea and throw it away. Use a big ass pipe wrench.

Zach
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