Major Cooling System issues, Flap system removed by PO Options

[Gatornapper]

Cool! Great design...

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The stock pressure relief valve in a Type 4 engine also incorporates a cooler bypass circuit.
When pressure is high most of the oil goes around the cooler, not through it.
Its essentially a thermostat to help with warm up, but also allows very high oil temperatures during hard driving. I make a pressure valve insert which defeats the bypass, forcing the oil thru the cooler at all times.

My thermostat is internally identical to the remote thermostats that are commonly used in external cooler plumbing. There is no fail-safe. These thermostats use oil temperature, not pressure, to open the valve. When the oil is hot it all goes thru the cooler.
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[Superhawk996]

I’ll defer to Chris on this for racing application. Racing is very different than street use.

Keep in mind, hot oil is usually not high pressure oil. Oil thins, bearing clearances open up, etc.

Forcing all oil though cooler especially cold, high pressure oil risks blowing out the simple rubber grommets that seal the cooler to the case.

Forgive me for saying this but you seem determined to re-engineer the system. A properly built, and tuned stock (or 2056) motor running a thermostat and cooling flaps should not be overheating, end of story.

Delaying warm up of an engine can be nearly as bad as the overheating with respect to engine longevity.

[ChrisFoley]

Keep in mind, hot oil is usually not high pressure oil. Oil thins, bearing clearances open up, etc.

I think the stock pressure relief is bypassing the cooler at less than 40psi.

Forcing all oil though cooler especially cold, high pressure oil risks blowing out the simple rubber grommets that seal the cooler to the case.

That's false. The cooler sees full oil pressure at all times. It just gets little to no flow under some conditions.

A properly built, and tuned stock (or 2056) motor running a thermostat and cooling flaps should not be overheating, end of story.

That depends on what you mean by "overheating". I believe the designers had no problem with a stock 2L engine reaching 250F or higher oil temp. A 2056 is going to get even hotter. I know I don't want my oil that hot.
Remember, the engine was designed for single weight dino oil and we're typically using mult-viscosity semi-synthetic oils. The temp/viscosity characteristics are quite different.

Delaying warm up of an engine can be nearly as bad as the overheating with respect to engine longevity.

You know what they say about aircooled engines - when they're running they're overheating. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
I've never had a problem with one not getting up to operating temperature quickly enough.

[Superhawk996]

Just want to be clear my intent isn’t to start a pissing contest but rather to reiterate that these engines were designed to work in a certain operational envelope and they do that well as designed.

If you do or have any of the following:
Lug engines on hills or on flat ground
Race under high loads and high RPMs with high rate valve springs to support those RPMs
Have blocked Cooling fins or oil cooler fins
Drive in 100F+ weather with Dealer added A/C
Improper fuel ratios
Improper engine timing
Disabled cooling flaps

You will encounter some sort of temperature issues. Feel free to re-engineer as you see fit to suit the need. I’m a live and let live guy! Have fun with it!

Otherwise a street driven vehicle in normal temperatures ought not be overheating in the first place. Although an engine temp of 180F - 200F is not abnormal for water pumpers, it is on the low end for air cooled engines. Don’t freak out at 225 oil temp. Change often but don’t freak out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)