New here and need some help 914/8 Chevy 350 refurbish, Cleaning up and refurbishing 1973 914 - 350 converted car |
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New here and need some help 914/8 Chevy 350 refurbish, Cleaning up and refurbishing 1973 914 - 350 converted car |
Daryl32 |
Jan 14 2020, 02:36 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 133 Joined: 14-January 20 From: Southern California Member No.: 23,827 Region Association: Southern California |
So just a hello and introduction.
I am Daryl - sorta old and have been working on cars since 1969. Mostly Chevy's and Dodge's - then a 30 years or so I got my first taste of German engineering with a BMW E21 320i we were given as our Dd died on us. So I am here because a friend of a friend needed help with a project. We thought it just needed some carb work and a couple of leaks sorted out. The project have taken on the project of working out some issues with a chevy 350 converted 1973 914, the conversion is most likely 10 plus years old. I believe the kit is a Renegade kit. Some of the issues were it bleeds fluid very where the tranny and engine can. Most of the leaks have been addressed and stopped "I hope". Heads were replaced because both were cracked. New Holley carb will go on with new intake with square bore pattern for more choices in carbs. New electric water pump Lots of bent and rusty parts blasted and powder coated or replaced. Now that all this is done I need to fix the wiring and try to put it all back together. I can find lots of pictures of Chevy v8's from the top seating in the cars, But I could use some good pictures of the bottom of the car. Shiftier issues I need to address. Fuel line placement to carb Thorttel cable placements with carb facing forward. Where did you run your wiring harness to the engine bay? I am sure I will have more questions by the day. May work bench - sorta. |
FL000 |
Apr 6 2020, 04:25 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 394 Joined: 31-January 12 From: Lancaster, CA Member No.: 14,076 Region Association: Southern California |
Sounds like it's running good!
The space is limited below the decklid as you mentioned. If you are willing to remove the support channel under the grate it may just fit. I had to do that and go with a thin spacer under the carb. |
Daryl32 |
Apr 16 2020, 10:11 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 133 Joined: 14-January 20 From: Southern California Member No.: 23,827 Region Association: Southern California |
Sounds like it's running good! The space is limited below the decklid as you mentioned. If you are willing to remove the support channel under the grate it may just fit. I had to do that and go with a thin spacer under the carb. Thank you for the idea. Have been looking at it and pretty sure it will be coming out tomorrow. I found my oil leak! stupid is as stupid does". I did not put the alternator on the right side on the engine And I did not put bolts in the holes as usual to make them look better. As you can not see the front of the engine when it is in the car. BUT: the top hole is a through hole into the bore for the stock mechanical fuel pump drive shaft. So with not shaft and no bolt in the hole - oil mist was coming out of the hole. And it was dripping also. So I put a nice new gold grade 8 bolt in it like I do for more muscle car engines. Problem solved. Today I finished up the headlight and front blinker wiring, so now just need to put on some weather stripping/molding and put fuses in and see what SMOKES!!!! LOL Getting the headlights out of the car was a long and tedious job. ALL the screws securing the lights to the frames had stripped heads. As well as all four adjusters between the two of them. Had to use vise grips on them at 1/16 to 1/8 turn at a time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Anyway got them out and ran the new wires in place of the old. And got it all back together. NEED THIS BOLT to stop oil from coming out of engine. Attached image(s) |
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