OT What's it worth 69 911 L ?, Dark side comes calling.... Options

[GWN7]

So I stop on the way home to look at a trailer and the guy selling asks me what type of car I'd be hauling and I mention a Porsche. He asks if I want another? Last year I drove by there and there was a 911 in his lot. It looked nice.

details: 69 911 L

50,054 miles, interior is very nice (piping on drivers seat at edge is the only wear spot I could see.

Has fiber glass front fenders & bumper (he has original bumper for it)

Told me "L" means it has the "S" interior

Webers on the engine. (6 of them)

Has enough dust on it to almost obscure the fact it's red.


What's it worth?


What to look for?

Yes, I know......no pictures, yada yada...didn't have my camera with me.........

[TimT]

it wont have 6 Webers, it will have two..3bbl each

911L were made prior to 1969, so its an oldie

It all comes down to RUST!!!

btw original 911 come with steel fenders... except some extreme exotics which are accounted for

[GWN7]

It was in a shed...very dark....couldn't find the serial number. Where is it located?

[Aaron Cox]

L was a detuned S to meet emissions right????

[Dave_Darling]

In 1968, the Feds imposed emissions regulations on imported cars. (Domestic cars had gotten them a year or two earlier.) They weren't much, but Porsche's brand-new sooper dooper 1967 911S couldn't meet them with its high state of tune and it's triple-throat Webers. The rest of the world still got the S, but we didn't.

So Porsche decided to take a body built to S specs (gauges, brakes, etc.) and stick a "normal" 911 (no letter suffix) motor into it, along with more luxo-goodies. They called it the 911L. 130 HP, a pair of triple-throat Webers, most or all of the options. I don't know if any were sold outside the US or not. I believe they were only done for the 68 model year, while Porsche was busy getting the MFI to work on the "S" to meet the new emissions requirements (and still deliver the HP).

They're not bad cars. They've got more "oomph" than a T-spec 911 (which shares its engine with the original 914-6), and they've got more options than most T's got.

What's it worth?? No clue at all. The bumper and fenders, as was already mentioned, are not original so those probably detract somewhat from the value.

--DD

[rick 918-S]

Sounds like a donor to me. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sawzall-smiley.gif)

[DanT]

911L can be an awsome car in the right hands. Terry Zaconne has had one since new. It happens to be a soft rear window Targa. It now has over 385,000 miles on it. It has been to like 30 parades...driven to each one.
He just got back from Hershey and again won his AX class. He has won many many times and has 7 of the last 8 years I believe, plus lots of others.
He usually places in the top ten overall at any AX he enters period. Car has a completely stock engine and GGR spec GP (production) suspension mods.
cars are very nice but like all older Porsches are prone to rust. That may be why the fenders have been replaced.
Correct 130HP claimed by literature.

[GWN7]

It looked fairly rust free, but I did the PPI with a bic lighter.......if I had a better idea what it might be worth it might be worth going for a second look.

[Red-Beard]

I would bet it's a 68...

[ArtechnikA]

the year is significant...

68 == SWB
69 == LWB

an 'L' *should* be '68 only - they were SWB cars. so that'll be your first clue.
note that it's even easier to change a decklid than fenders, and therefore easy to convert a T to an L for the unwary... get VIN and engine numbers...

the vintage race guys like the SWB cars since they're typically the only 911's eligible. they're somewhere between 'nimble' and 'twitchy' especially depending on the state of the bumper weights / twin batteries.

if you need the Excellence numbers let me know, but with significasnt nonoriginal parts (which are often replaced due to rust or collision damage, although there are other plausible reasons...) the value will slip. it's getting very hard to find good SWB body panels.

[zymurgist]

Look at the buckets under the rear seats. That's a notorious place for rust on early 911's. If the fenders have been replaced, that's a Red Flag O' Rust as far as I'm concerned.

Sounds like it might be a nice car, or has the potential to be one without a lot of work.

[boxstr]

911L also had the hydropneumatic front suspension. Seems liek everyone swapped it for the Konis. Rust: check the battery boxes and the front suspension mounting points. Also the rear window area. Reach up in the engine compartment and check under the rear window shelf.
CCLIN911PORSCHE

[tat2dphreak]

pelican has a 911 buying guide too, like the one they did for the 914... good read.

[Hawk]

Good thread. Just looked over a restored previously rusty 1972 911T. The rust is back after 12 years now so I WALKED.
I'm really in the market for an early body style 911S, no rust, non-race car. Anybody want to sell one to become my garage queen?
-hawk

[Root_Werks]

I had a 68' 911L in high school. Nice engines. But I agree with what has been said here. In 68' there was basically the T L and S, the L was a carb'd early version of the E I was told. Hence in 69' there was the T E and S. So you are basically getting an early version of a 911E which is also a great driver.

Rust, yeah, you think 914's rust! Check everywhere including the front pan, gas tank support, lower corners of front and rear window and so on.

If it's a 69', then someone probably took the MFI off. Check the engine to see if the MFI pump sprocket is there. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/idea.gif)

[GWN7]

QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Jul 21 2005, 03:12 AM)

the year is significant... 68 == SWB 69 == LWB an 'L' *should* be '68 only - they were SWB cars. so that'll be your first clue. note that it's even easier to change a decklid than fenders, and therefore easy to convert a T to an L for the unwary... get VIN and engine numbers... if you need the Excellence numbers let me know, but with significasnt nonoriginal parts (which are often replaced due to rust or collision damage, although there are other plausible reasons...) the value will slip. it's getting very hard to find good SWB body panels.

"get VIN and engine numbers" where is the VIN located on a 911. It's not on the pillar post as on the 914?

"if you need the Excellence numbers let me know" Yep anyone with an idea of what it might be worth????

I need a base line to start with. I looked on Ebay to see if any had sold there, but no luck...

Owner mentioned a figure, but also said he was willing to talk....

Re: Rust -The carpet was up in the footwell area of the rear seat and it looked not bad.

[swood]

I'll check out the Bird buying guide too. I'm looking at a '71 T. Is it that much of a dog? What can you do to a stock t to bump it up?

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (GWN7 @ Jul 21 2005, 12:19 PM)

where is the VIN located on a 911. It's not on the pillar post as on the 914? "if you need the Excellence numbers let me know" Yep

i don't recall when the A-pillar VIN location became US law.
it'll be on the data plate in the front trunk just to the left of the latch receptacle, and it will be on the EPA sticker on the driver's B-pillar just below the door lock -- if cars had EPS stickers in 1968 - i don't recall when that started either...

i'll check Excellence tonight; it'd be silly for me to pull a number outta my a$$ when the proper documentation is available...

L's seem to be niche cars. i've known 3 people who really liked them. they're heavy, like an S, but without the additional power, and they do have the short wheel base.

*probably* the front suspension was changed from the Boge hydropneumatic to something with a more modern ball joint - the weird early 911 ball joints and 2-piece struts are getting very hard to find. the Boge struts were 3.5" brake struts and not infrequently the aluminum calipers were sold off to finance the conversion to torsion bar A-Arms and T (M-caliper...) struts.

[TimT]

Ive had a number of 911T's they are great cars!!

provided you find one that hasnt been found by the tin-worms you can have a reliable high performance classic.

I used one 911T as a daily driver for years, till a NYC cabby totaled the car.

Getting more oomph out of one of these cars will need you to bring bags of money though.

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (swood @ Jul 21 2005, 02:32 PM)

...I'm looking at a '71 T. Is it that much of a dog? What can you do to a stock t to bump it up?

i have a '71E.

T - 125 HP @5800, ~123 lbs-ft torque @ 4200 from 2,2 liters, Zenith or Weber carbs.
'70 was the first year for piston squirters, so that's good. Marelli dizzy less so unless it's been replaced (probable...)

expensive clutch parts - 2 years of the Type 911 Transmission only (early pattern, later flywheel, unique clutch disk & pressure plate.)

what can you do? what can't you do?
a 915 drops right in (you'll need a new mounting plate and shifter tower - or Rennshift) and you should be good up to 3,6. (G50 requires modification of the torsion tube and you'd probably be better off with a newer car...) the oil tank should be updated if you want to take the car and a bigger engine on the track.

i like the LWB/LH cars but they do have their quirks from time to time.