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> What's my 72 1.7L worth?, Helping the in-laws
bkrantz
post Jan 18 2022, 08:54 PM
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QUOTE(rjames @ Jan 18 2022, 04:17 PM) *

QUOTE(EricL @ Jan 18 2022, 02:33 PM) *

QUOTE(rjames @ Jan 18 2022, 02:22 PM) *

Will be worth more if you can get it running. Looks like a great car. Lots of us here in the PNW / Seattle area that would likely be willing to help. If I wasn't working and going to school full time I'd offer myself up. Happy to help any way I can from afar, though.

Thanks. It's been at least 5 years since it was driven. At that time it was running well but has sat untouched since then. This past weekend I dropped in a new battery and got it to start for a few seconds using starter fluid so it has spark but it's not getting fuel. Likely the fuel left in the the car has gummed up the injectors or fuel filter or something.

Any advice on where to start there?


Replace all of the fuel lines. Ideally you'd replace the plastic lines in the tunnel with new stainless lines, too. Clean the tank, and get the injectors sent out for cleaning/testing to make sure they are within spec.
Many folks have used 'Mr Injector' with good results There are others.
None of these jobs are difficult if you have basic tools, just time consuming. You'll find the necessary info here on how to do all of it, including pictures, plus the experience of a ton of people who have all done these things ourselves to guide you.

....or farm the work out to Rich @914werke (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


With 50 year old plastic and rubber lines (unless you know they were replaced) any start up attempt is a fire risk. Not a huge risk, but possible. I suppose you could have a bunch of friends standing by with fire extinguishers...
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SKL1
post Jan 18 2022, 09:55 PM
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Can't imagine this would be hard to sell, even locally. Gotta love an original car with steelies...
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KELTY360
post Jan 18 2022, 10:48 PM
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Lots of good advice here although much is conflicting in small ways. Those differing approaches illustrate the problem. Which voice to heed and how far down the path to go. Two fundamental points: a running car brings more money and rust documentation can make or break your sales price. Focus on rust first because if it’s rusty there’s no sense in spending a lot of time getting it running without a dollar benefit at the end.

Bite the bullet and call someone who can give you a legitimate assessment in less than an hour. I’ve known Rich @914Werke since I got my car in 2006. First as a friend and later as a mechanic who has gone above and beyond. PM him and he’ll help figure out a way forward. You won’t be sorry

GLWS. on the surface that’s a fine looking car, holding all the potential of a 50 year old vintage Porsche.
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Badinfluence1
post Jan 19 2022, 04:25 AM
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Somewhere around $10500- as it sits, if you let rich at 914werke.com get it running and sorted, maybe 18K on Bring a trailer .com, Rich is more than fair, Under 1K unless there is major rust...Rich is in Lynnwood close to I-5.
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Jett
post Jan 19 2022, 09:18 AM
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QUOTE(Badinfluence1 @ Jan 19 2022, 02:25 AM) *

Somewhere around $10500- as it sits, if you let rich at 914werke.com get it running and sorted, maybe 18K on Bring a trailer .com, Rich is more than fair, Under 1K unless there is major rust...Rich is in Lynnwood close to I-5.

+1 @914Werke is the right person to take a look. Rich is knowledgeable, fair, and can help.

I would not try to start this car until it was safe, with new fuel lines, gas tank inspection, and injectors cleaned. If not the car will never run well or be safe. I would also check the brakes and lines. Tires probably need changing.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) new garage has space for this beauty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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jd74914
post Jan 19 2022, 09:29 AM
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Guess I'm of a different mentality, but if it's only been sitting 5-10 years and ran when parked I'd drain the fuel, refill, and try again. If it doesn't start there is likely a grounding issue. I'd lay off the starter fluid too...

Plastic lines aren't so bad if you aren't driving. Just watch for leaks. Engines generally just don't catch on fire when cold even if there is some fuel on them which you're watching for anyways I would hope. The issue on a cold engine is atomized fuel and open spark so fuel sprays when you have a plug out, etc.
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Shivers
post Jan 19 2022, 03:32 PM
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Are you sure it is a 1972? The front bumper looks 73-74
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Jamie
post Jan 19 2022, 03:36 PM
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QUOTE(Shivers @ Jan 19 2022, 01:32 PM) *

Are you sure it is a 1972? The front bumper looks 73-74

Yes, it appears that someone has removed the bumper "tits."
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billh1963
post Jan 19 2022, 03:43 PM
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QUOTE(Shivers @ Jan 19 2022, 04:32 PM) *

Are you sure it is a 1972? The front bumper looks 73-74


We need that VIN (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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mepstein
post Jan 19 2022, 05:26 PM
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QUOTE(Shivers @ Jan 19 2022, 04:32 PM) *

Are you sure it is a 1972? The front bumper looks 73-74

Are moving passenger seat, dash side vents and inertia reel seat belts a 73 item or did they start in 72?
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Shivers
post Jan 19 2022, 05:57 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Jan 19 2022, 03:26 PM) *

QUOTE(Shivers @ Jan 19 2022, 04:32 PM) *

Are you sure it is a 1972? The front bumper looks 73-74

Are moving passenger seat, dash side vents and inertia reel seat belts a 73 item or did they start in 72?


My 72' has all of that
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EricL
post Feb 6 2022, 07:35 PM
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Finally got a chance to go over to my in-laws and take some more photos. Will post shortly.

Here's the battery tray:

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EricL
post Feb 6 2022, 07:37 PM
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Rear Trunk:

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EricL
post Feb 6 2022, 07:39 PM
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Front Trunk:

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EricL
post Feb 6 2022, 07:46 PM
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Passenger door sill.

I was going to remove the door sills to get better photos of potential rust areas but the sills have never have been removed and appear to be factory installed with rivets. Had limited time and didn't want to mess with that.

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EricL
post Feb 6 2022, 07:49 PM
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Driver side door sill.

I was going to remove the door sills to get better photos of potential rust areas but the sills have never have been removed and appear to be factory installed with rivets. Had limited time and didn't want to mess with that.

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windforfun
post Feb 6 2022, 07:53 PM
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You might want to contact George at Auto Atlanta. He'll at least give you a "calibration" point. He might even want to buy it. Good luck with the sale!!!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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EricL
post Feb 6 2022, 07:58 PM
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Original owner's manual and and a bunch of other paperwork. Haven't looked through it all but my father-in-law was the kind of guy who saved everything. Wouldn't surprise me if all the maintenance records are there.

Did forget to get the VIN though. Damn. Next time.


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Jett
post Feb 6 2022, 08:02 PM
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I expect that the rust in the drivers door opening is extensive. The rivets are inexpensive to replace, but you need to look under the rockers.
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EricL
post Feb 6 2022, 08:18 PM
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QUOTE(Jett @ Feb 6 2022, 06:02 PM) *

I expect that the rust in the drivers door opening is extensive. The rivets are inexpensive to replace, but you need to look under the rockers.


Understood. Could be. I have limited time to mess with this car so my plan to have 914Werke get her running and assess the rust and such sufficient for me to price her reasonably. Will keep folks appraised.
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