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> Turbo Tie Rod Washers, Are they critical?
FourBlades
post Feb 2 2010, 12:17 PM
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McMark
post Feb 2 2010, 02:00 PM
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A thin washer will work just fine. Also note that in this case, the TTR didn't even seat correctly without a washer. (photo credit Wes V)


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FourBlades
post Feb 2 2010, 09:38 PM
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Mark,

Thanks for all your insights on this!

If you use a smaller diameter, thinner washer, is it then possible to crank the
steering too far one way and run out of teeth on the rack, or is the end of the
tie rod too big to go into the end of the rack?

John
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McMark
post Feb 2 2010, 10:48 PM
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The thin washers pictured above have the same OD as the supplied thick washers. You'll want something with the same OD to act as a stop.

The factory washers are:
45mm OD
16.5mm ID
7.5mm thick
(quoted from another thread, I didn't measure one)
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914Sixer
post Feb 3 2010, 11:40 AM
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I will try and get a picture later today. The stock 914 strut arm is straight out and the 911 strut arm is curved inward. This could play a BIG difference in how far the tie rod travels and whether the space is needed.
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 3 2010, 03:56 PM
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QUOTE
I will try and get a picture later today. The stock 914 strut arm is straight out and the 911 strut arm is curved inward. This could play a BIG difference in how far the tie rod travels and whether the space is needed.


That's one of the obvious visual differences but... 914 arms work and so do 911 Koni strut arms. It seems the overall geometry there is the same. It would be great to see all 4 or 5 (914, Koni, 911T Boge, Bilstein, Later Boge).

The problem is showing itself on a 911T strut at this time. Mark, do you have a T strut laying around? I have an extra pair of Koni and Bilsteins here but no T struts.
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McMark
post Feb 3 2010, 04:13 PM
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'69 T Struts.


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kconway
post Feb 4 2010, 12:20 AM
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I believe this to be a 911T strut I'm putting on soon along with TTR's.
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And my old 914 Bilstein strut
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BTW, is there a special type of grease to use on the rack? I noticed a red colored grease in Wes' photo the McMark posted.

Kev
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 4 2010, 08:35 AM
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It would be nice to lay them on their backs, each with the spindle arm touching the ground and see if the spindle angles are all the same.
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Gint
post Feb 4 2010, 09:20 AM
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QUOTE(kconway @ Feb 3 2010, 11:20 PM) *
BTW, is there a special type of grease to use on the rack? I noticed a red colored grease in Wes' photo the McMark posted.
Good question. I need that info also. Anybody? Sheaster?
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 4 2010, 11:39 AM
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I don't really think it matters.

The factory manual states to fill the steering housing with "multipurpose grease" upon re-assembly. When you see red grease, it's usually Mobil 1 Synthetic. You'd probably want to look for a multipurpose with decent flow properties at lower temps. I'm sure the Mobil 1 is more than fine.
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914Sixer
post Feb 4 2010, 01:18 PM
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Here is a picture of a 75 911 Boge and 73 914 Bilstein. Boge is bent back and the Bilstein is straight. I looked a the 914 Boge and it is also straight and measures the same as the Bilstein. Here is were it gets VERY INTERESTING, the 911 and 914 both measure approximately 7 1/2" from the center of the spindle to the center of the tie rod hole. So, it proves me WRONG.


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FourBlades
post Mar 20 2010, 08:23 PM
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Well maybe it is only the early 911 struts that are different. I have 69 T struts
and they could not be aligned with the thick washer. I used a thin washer with
the same OD and they aligned fine with a little room to spare. The washer does
act as a stop, without it the end of the tie rod goes into the rack.

Getting the fat end of the rubber boots onto the steering rack is a pain. It is
easiest to grip them with sharp nosed vise grips and use a flat screw driver
to pry them onto the rack. Then twist the part you got on up into the car
and repeat with the other side.

Now that I actually know how to do it, this is probably a 2 hour job at most.

John

PS. I had a hell of a time getting the TTRs off to take off the fat washer. In
the end I used a big pipe wrench on the fat part next to the rack. There is
limited space in the steering well and a normal wrench was not oriented so
I could turn it. It also helps to turn the wheels all the way one way or
the other to get access to the inside of the TTRs next to the rack. You need
to be sure you are turning the TTRs the right way. I looked at the threads
on the old non-turbo ends to make sure I was pipe wrenching the right
direction.
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