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> decreasing 914 weight
Chris Pincetich
post Feb 28 2006, 12:54 PM
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I'm doing a lot of this weight reduction too - maximize fun out of my 1.7 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Brett - 10 lb wheels!?! Most posts I've seen about 4 lug Fuchs have them at 11-12 lbs each. What wheels available are lighter than Fuchs? Some car photos I've seen have shiny aluminum kinda like Centerlines but with holes in them...are those what you are referring to.

My goal is to go 4-lug aluminum hubs, loose the brake dust shields, vented rotors (maybe), and super light rims.

You can shave 4 lbs off by going to the high-torque mini-starter! Why hasn't anybody mentioned leaving the spare tire at home and calling AAA instead? There's 20lbs off!
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lapuwali
post Feb 28 2006, 12:57 PM
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On track days, it depends on the organization you do the track days with. Check their rules. Most likely, a non-competitve track event isn't going to care about the FG panels, but many will care about the cage.

By "fairly easy", I meant no fabrication involved. It's also far from free, given that decent quality lids are about $400 each now. Figure about $1K for lids and bumpers. Also with an FG front hood, you have to use a prop rod to hold up the lid while you're filling up, as the trunk springs MUST be removed.

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johannes
post Feb 28 2006, 01:20 PM
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I have also seen lightweight targa roofs ... ( when needed ) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

I removed the stock steering wheel and found it very heavy ... I think aftermarket steering weels are also much lighter.

Aluminium Rockers is also easy to do.
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ModPR3
post Feb 28 2006, 01:37 PM
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whats lexan like: does it fog up easy, how does it respond to rain or moisture, does it scratch easy and can it be fitted in the window roller mechanism.
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Mueller
post Feb 28 2006, 01:47 PM
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QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 12:37 PM)
whats lexan like: does it fog up easy, how does it respond to rain or moisture, does it scratch easy and can it be fitted in the window roller mechanism.

lexan in a street car is a bad idea in my opinion...scratches and worse yet, if you get in an accident, it's harder to break than the side glass...if you need to be pulled out the window for whatever reason the time to break the lexan can be worth valuble time....


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lapuwali
post Feb 28 2006, 01:53 PM
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QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 11:37 AM)
whats lexan like: does it fog up easy, how does it respond to rain or moisture, does it scratch easy and can it be fitted in the window roller mechanism.

You don't want to use Lexan for side windows if you still want rollup windows. Use it for fixed windows, like the rear window, or the vent window.

There's a big tradeoff between streetable and lightweight, and you're going to have to decide for yourself how far from streetable you want to go to lose weight. Losing all of the sound-deadening can net you 45-50lbs, but it will be much louder inside the car, for example.

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brant
post Feb 28 2006, 02:33 PM
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James,

your right I'm over reacting again.
buying light weight parts isn't rocket science.


I agree with the fixed window comments and lexan.
it scratches EASILY... I wouldn't put wipers on it. In fact your not supposed to wash it without a special plastic cleaner and special rags.. so it would be better used in fixed windows, like the rear window. but then that brings up a new problem in that it probably won't fit the seal and then you might have a water leak.. etc... etc..

I'd concentrate any weight savings on comfort items.
insulation tar
lighter components to replace heavier (steering wheel, aluminum crossmember, wheels, seats)

and to answer your question about being on track
most drivers ed clubs will let you on track without full safety gear. Most wheel to wheel race organizations will not.

SCCA autox will no doubt allow all of your fiberglass modifications, but will probably bump you into a modified class.

everyone says to read the rules first for exactly this reason. when I build my first 914 at age 15years, we had a neighbor who was a nationally known formula vee engine builder. He built my motor for cost. I thought I was so cool. only problem is that he put a cam into the motor for me.

a year couple of years later I started doing drivers education through PCA. found out that my "cam" bumped me into a high class. we had classes 1 through 16 and my cam bumped me into class 14 even though it really only gave me about 5-10hp max. My local club would have put my non cammed car into class 2 instead of 14.

So I started doing events and was absolutely blown away.

here I was in a full street car with full heat, defrost and all... going against cars with at least 100 more HP than me, and tires at least twice as wide, with chassis that weighed at least 500lbs less.

needless to say I was blown away.

it was ok for about 2 years because of the learning curve and just learning basic skills, but after about 2 years you want to start putting up a good showing and being competetive.

so I had to start over with a new motor and building to a particular set of rules.

my new car is the same thing.
I had to carefully pick my rules and build an entire car only to those rules...

I'm going over board.
you can always unbolt fiberglass.
I just recommend reading the rules to everyone, because once you have 4K into your body and paint, it won't be too fun to have to put on your old hoods in order to jump down a class.

I think Joe just learned this lesson in the last 12 months too.

the best financial advice I can give regarding cars and learning about track driving, is to keep the car in a "stock" class for at least 2 years. Focus all of your time and money on the safety equiptment and driving skill. Don't do anything that will bump you out of the class that car will fall into as it is. Your skills will grow AMAZINGLY as a beginner because your on the steep end of the bell curve. you'd be surprised how much difference the driver can make.

then after a couple of years experience you will know what you want to do with the car and what all of the rules do or don't allow.

at that point you can invest your money once (instead of twice) or even sell the car for NO loss and buy one that is already in a class you want.

focus on things that are legal. suspension things, and modifications that don't make the car unuseable.

brant
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grantsfo
post Feb 28 2006, 02:37 PM
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QUOTE (Joe Ricard @ Feb 28 2006, 09:27 AM)
So Grant, what do you figure you got your car down to now?

Its a lost cause now since I'm putting a boat anchor 2.4 six and a cage in the car. Will let you know once I'm finnished with the car. I was hoping to keep the car under 1850 lbs.
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grantsfo
post Feb 28 2006, 02:42 PM
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QUOTE (ChrisNPDrider @ Feb 28 2006, 10:54 AM)
I'm doing a lot of this weight reduction too - maximize fun out of my 1.7 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Brett - 10 lb wheels!?! Most posts I've seen about 4 lug Fuchs have them at 11-12 lbs each. What wheels available are lighter than Fuchs? Some car photos I've seen have shiny aluminum kinda like Centerlines but with holes in them...are those what you are referring to.

My goal is to go 4-lug aluminum hubs, loose the brake dust shields, vented rotors (maybe), and super light rims.

You can shave 4 lbs off by going to the high-torque mini-starter! Why hasn't anybody mentioned leaving the spare tire at home and calling AAA instead? There's 20lbs off!
 ;)
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My custom made 15x8" Keizer wheels are 9.85 lbs and cost $250 each. ...but they are for track/ax only.

Possible solution to the spare tire weight: Leave the spare home get a tire plug kit and a lightweight inflator.
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ModPR3
post Feb 28 2006, 02:55 PM
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what are some good, light, and steetable 4 and 5 bolt wheels. one member mentioned pansport.
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brant
post Feb 28 2006, 02:57 PM
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Grant,

whats your current weight?

I REALLY want to know your weight once you get done with the conversion...

Its REALLY... REALLY.. REALLY... hard to get a street legal -6 below 2000lbs.

the -6 weight comes up on the club frequently and there are about 15 street legal cars that can't get under 2050lbs.

six's commonly weigh 200lbs more than -4's
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Andyrew
post Feb 28 2006, 03:07 PM
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and 8's weight commonly 450 more than 4's.

I would assume a 10 would weigh 650-700 more? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)


sorry... couldnt help myself..
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Mueller
post Feb 28 2006, 03:15 PM
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QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 01:55 PM)
what are some good, light, and steetable 4 and 5 bolt wheels. one member mentioned pansport.

Panasports come in 2 flavors, street and race...normally the "race" versions weigh a few pounds less and are not recommended for street use........

for cost effective 5 lug rims, you cannot beat the Fuchs....sure you can get custom rims, but double or triple your rim budget....











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Andyrew
post Feb 28 2006, 03:23 PM
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QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 28 2006, 02:15 PM)


for cost effective 5 lug rims, you cannot beat the Fuchs....sure you can get custom rims, but double or triple your rim budget....

I thought the cookie cutters were the cost effective light wheels?

at almost free... there just a pound or so more than the fuch's...

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ModPR3
post Feb 28 2006, 03:23 PM
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anyone know what these wheels weigh and why pelican parts say they are not suppose to be used for auto x.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ypes/polriv.jpg
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Andyrew
post Feb 28 2006, 03:28 PM
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Riviera's. pretty heavy, there mag wheels..

They can be used for autox, Its the vw offset wheels you shouldnt use (actually, the one's pictured are vw offset) because it limits your tire size to 165 on stock fenders.. The 914 offset rivs are perfectly fine, never seen em break... You can find em for low prices.. People give em away.. lol

Andrew
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ModPR3
post Feb 28 2006, 03:31 PM
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QUOTE (Andyrew @ Feb 28 2006, 01:28 PM)
Riviera's. pretty heavy, there mag wheels..

They can be used for autox, Its the vw offset wheels you shouldnt use (actually, the one's pictured are vw offset) because it limits your tire size to 165 on stock fenders.. The 914 offset rivs are perfectly fine, never seen em break... You can find em for low prices.. People give em away.. lol

Andrew

how much more do the rivieras weigh then the cookie cutters.
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Mueller
post Feb 28 2006, 03:31 PM
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QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 02:23 PM)
anyone know what these wheels weigh and why pelican parts say they are not suppose to be used for auto x.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ypes/polriv.jpg

cheap cast heavy VW bug wheels.....

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ModPR3
post Feb 28 2006, 03:39 PM
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guesstimate time:

starting point: 1975 914 1.8 all stock

weight reductions:

complete fiberglass 916 kit (flares, front and rear bumpers)
fiberglass hood and trunk
heating system and controls taken out
stock exhust replaced with headers
spare tire taken out and replaced with tire flat seal and disposable air canister

what do you think i will weigh in at:
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nine14cats
post Feb 28 2006, 03:45 PM
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Here's some links to my weight loss project on my 914-6. The car is track only, so you can't do all of it if you are running a street legal car, but it may give you some ideas. In some of the threads I mention the weight difference of each piece I replaced.

People are giving you great advice on watching out for rules and how you go about building your car. The car in the links was built to PCA regional Time Trial specs. After 2 years of competing, the rules changed somewhat, so sometimes it doesn't matter what you do.

If you decide to track the car with private "fun" clubs, they will normally not care what your car weighs.

As far as wheels, I had 4 sets of 944 Fuchs that I purchased from the local wrecker and swap meets for $50 each. They were 15x7's and I ran cantilever slicks on them.

Here's the links. Hopefully there are a few ideas that may be of interest.

Project Jenny Craig 1

Project Jenny Craig 2

Project Jenny Craig 3

Project Jenny Craig 4

Bill P.
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