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> seam welding and rear suspension strengthening, What to do, What I did...
SirAndy
post Mar 23 2006, 11:27 AM
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QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Mar 23 2006, 09:11 AM)
stop pussyfooting and do a real doorbar (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mueba.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) if you come to the breakfast on sat. i'll let you test-sit my car. the door-brace actually makes it EASIER to get in/out of the car ...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool_shades.gif) Andy


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Andyrew
post Mar 23 2006, 11:41 AM
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Im sorry, but I will not make a full bar. I want the bar to be somewhat hidden, and I want the old man who drives and rides this car to be able to get in and out of it with ease. I know about sliding on the bar, thats how I get in and out of the turbo race car. I slide on the seat.

Sat im prom tux shopping.

Andrew
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Andyrew
post Mar 23 2006, 11:54 AM
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measured the sway bars with a dial caliper.

Stock is 6/10 of an inch, Nascar is 7.5/10 of an inch. I would have to say that I think the nascar bar is made of a stronger material than the stock one and which it should be stiffer.
At any rate, stiffness also depends on how far the droplinks are from the actual shaft. Which is why im going to drill a hole every 1.5 inches towards the bar on the arm. Should give me quite a bit of adjustability with adjustable droplinks.



PS my door brace will be simular to Andy's... just about 2in lower
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neo914-6
post Mar 23 2006, 12:04 PM
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Andrew,

Scott told me "Peal" had unique and hidden bracing. Maybe BJ can attest to this. This car is now owned by someone near me who also has a 215 914 V8.
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SirAndy
post Mar 23 2006, 12:20 PM
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QUOTE (Andyrew @ Mar 23 2006, 09:41 AM)
I know about sliding on the bar, thats how I get in and out of the turbo race car. I slide on the seat.

sliding? how does "sliding" help you getting out of the car ????


*i* was talking about leverage ...
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Andyrew
post Mar 23 2006, 12:23 PM
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Helps getting in andy.

Getting out is just a matter of practice and tecnique (sp?)



Felix, I would be interested if the owner could send me some pics, or if you could send me some pics. Thanks

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John
post Mar 23 2006, 12:30 PM
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QUOTE
I seam welded everything from the after firewall back.
Nuthin' has broke in 4 years of Axing on a rough venue.....(insert fingercrosssing smilie here). I saw no noticable warpage.

I've seen uni-body prep articles & vids for racin'. The first thing these race shops did was seam weld everything in sight. I dunno if it has done any gud on my car, but it didn't hurt. biggrin.gif


Pics please.
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SirAndy
post Mar 23 2006, 12:36 PM
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QUOTE (Andyrew @ Mar 23 2006, 10:23 AM)
Getting out is just a matter of practice and tecnique (sp?)

alright, then let me say this one more time ...

with a bar like mine, it is actually "easier to get in and out of the car" ...

no sliding required ...
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John
post Mar 23 2006, 12:36 PM
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When you guys refer to seam welding, I become rather confused.

When one "seam" welds sheet metal that was spot welded together, does one run a heavy weld at the break (bend) or does one simply weld a bead past the spot welds at the end of the bent "flange".

Also when 2 "flanges" meet (along the bottom or top) of the longs, how are these "seam" welded?

I am assuming that MIG welders are being used.

Typically, when I think of seam welding sheet metal boxes, I think of how the gas tanks were welded (continuous spot welding between two rollers).

I need some pics of the "seam" welding.

Thanks for some pictorial explanations.
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Andyrew
post Mar 23 2006, 12:39 PM
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OK then andy...

When I get home from work, I'll draw you up what I want to do in your angle, and we'll see the difference. There is not much.
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Porcharu
post Mar 23 2006, 01:26 PM
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QUOTE (Racer Chris @ Mar 23 2006, 04:12 AM)
[QUOTE=Porcharu,Mar 23 2006, 03:15 AM] [QUOTE=Here's an example of the tubular brace I like. [/QUOTE]

What happens in a wreck - say a bad one where the rear of the car gets all wadded up. Looks like that bar might end up in your back.
I like the idea of the tube for stiffening, but I have been thinking about this potential proplem for a while. [/QUOTE]
I whacked the left rear corner of my race car at 100mph against an armco barrier. I never lifted.
The pickup ear folded around the end of the tube reinforcement. The firewall is quite strong along the bottom edge where it is welded to the floorpan and there is a second layer a couple inches forther forward. There's no danger of injury from that tube.

That's good to hear. Not good that you crashed tho.
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lapuwali
post Mar 23 2006, 02:04 PM
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Seam welding is "welding the seams" (between the spot welds). This may help a tad in some highly stressed areas, but only if the original engineering was really bad. It's really popular in the Civic crowd, but I think it's mostly way too much work for way too little gain.
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andys
post Mar 23 2006, 03:46 PM
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QUOTE (SirAndy @ Mar 23 2006, 09:27 AM)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) if you come to the breakfast on sat. i'll let you test-sit my car. the door-brace actually makes it EASIER to get in/out of the car ...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool_shades.gif) Andy

Sir Andy,

When you install a cage like the one in your photo, does it not obstruct both the engine lid release knob and the front truck release knob? Pic's? How do you get around this issue?

Thanks,

Andys
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SirAndy
post Mar 23 2006, 05:29 PM
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QUOTE (andys @ Mar 23 2006, 01:46 PM)
When you install a cage like the one in your photo, does it not obstruct both the engine lid release knob and the front truck release knob? Pic's? How do you get around this issue?

engine lid knob is fine, it clears the cage ...
front hood knob has to be turned 90 deg. and shaved on top. no big deal really ...

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J P Stein
post Mar 23 2006, 06:47 PM
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I don't have any good pictures of the welding done on my car.....this one is prolly best. The factory welding(to use the term loosly) in this area is gawd awful. I had to spend hours grinding out the cold lap & porosity....amongst other flaws.

I also welded around the perimiter of the ear & ground it shooth. The same with the arch at the wheel well.....after grinding the ends of the lap even....then ground that smooth. On both of these areas, there were spot welds that blew out the edge of the material. IIRC, most of the rest was more seal welding than anything that would add much strengh.....tho I could be wrong.

Unibodies are designed to be assembled using the quickest method that *will suffice*. As to wheather this is the strongest method is for you to decide. This thing sure as hell wasn't designed to cope with what I'm doing to it.


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TimT
post Mar 23 2006, 07:50 PM
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QUOTE
I think it's mostly way too much work for way too little gain.


Not sure I can agree with that. Porsche factory racecars have come seam welded for years. From the 72RS lightweight to the 2003 GT3RS that we own have welded seams. I havent seen a 997 GT3 yet so I cant comment on them, but i tend to think that Porsche will continue this practice.
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andys
post Mar 23 2006, 10:22 PM
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QUOTE (SirAndy @ Mar 23 2006, 03:29 PM)
QUOTE (andys @ Mar 23 2006, 01:46 PM)
When you install a cage like the one in your photo, does it not obstruct both the engine lid release knob and the front truck release knob? Pic's? How do you get around this issue?

engine lid knob is fine, it clears the cage ...
front hood knob has to be turned 90 deg. and shaved on top. no big deal really ...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) Andy

Doesn't the roll bar sit directly in front of the engine lid release? Can you explain? I'm probably going to mock up a cage with PVC pipe, but don't see how I'll be able to pull the knob.

Andys
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Andyrew
post Mar 23 2006, 10:24 PM
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Just drill another hole and weld another bong 1 inch over...

No biggie.
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ChrisFoley
post Mar 24 2006, 05:51 AM
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QUOTE (andys @ Mar 23 2006, 11:22 PM)
Doesn't the roll bar sit directly in front of the engine lid release? Can you explain? I'm probably going to mock up a cage with PVC pipe, but don't see how I'll be able to pull the knob.

Andys

Andy,
If you are careful positioning the tube where it welds to the rocker there is room for the handle to be pulled. The roll cage tube should be outboard of the lid release centerline. It may be necessary to shorten the handle 1/4" or so and tap the hole a little deeper. It's close.
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Pistachio
post Mar 24 2006, 09:15 AM
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Re: the dog-ear tube braces
What's the "desired" OD of the tubing? Wall thickness? (.120 or .095)

Guess it sort of depends on how much stress you think is going on there, but I've run across pics of guys doing semi-tube frames that looks like they're using 1.75" OD, & the pic on this thread looks ...1"(?)

Curious to the consensus of what's "needed" & what's overkill.
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