The official chappy 914-6-gt-turbo carrera thread, The car is real scary to drive, clutch is broke in, im not! Options

[Brando]

Where's it leaking? Was the engine slapped together without sealant, or what? I'd push for some dirko or yamabond/threebond. Never put an engine together without it.

[iamchappy]

I just got back from driving the car for about 45 minutes, the leaking appears to come from someplace higher than the cylinder base gaskets, before the base gaskets leaked all the time even when sitting. I dont think they are leaking from there like before, the engine wasn't terribly oily but was still wet but it didn't take much to clean up.

A/R's look good now, Boost wastegate was letting go as it should the BOV was letting go as it should. i did dial back the timing with the boost retard but the car was dragging so i put it back to 0 again. It is very hard to keep the RPM's down the below 5000 when the boost hits, i was able to keep things around 4000 most of the time going up and down the RPM scale pulled a few times over 5 and once it jumped to 6400, i couldn't stop it.
The car was running on the hot side most of the time, it sat around 240 and would come down to 210 but the boost was heating things up as i was accelerating and coasting on and off the whole time. I am waiting for my front oil-cooler fans and the temp today is around 90 so i dont think i am going to worry to much about it at this time.

I am having fun, but these first outings are always nerve wracking worrying about everything.

[Phoenix-MN]

I just got back from driving the car for about 45 minutes, the leaking appears to come from someplace higher than the cylinder base gaskets, before the base gaskets leaked all the time even when sitting. I dont think they are leaking from there like before, the engine wasn't terribly oily but was still wet but it didn't take much to clean up.

A/R's look good now, Boost wastegate was letting go as it should the BOV was letting go as it should. i did dial back the timing with the boost retard but the car was dragging so i put it back to 0 again. It is very hard to keep the RPM's down the below 5000 when the boost hits, i was able to keep things around 4000 most of the time going up and down the RPM scale pulled a few times over 5 and once it jumped to 6400, i couldn't stop it.
The car was running on the hot side most of the time, it sat around 240 and would come down to 210 but the boost was heating things up as i was accelerating and coasting on and off the whole time. I am waiting for my front oil-cooler fans and the temp today is around 90 so i dont think i am going to worry to much about it at this time.

I am having fun, but these first outings are always nerve wracking worrying about everything.

A fresh tight engine will run a little hotter until it loosens up a bit (as I'm sure ya know). When I broke in my 911 6 it got warm enough to buble the paint on the rear valance. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yikes.gif)

[iamchappy]

i didn't know, thanks for sharing....

[iamchappy]

Ollie was more than a little excited. As i Am.......

[ArtechnikA]

...I'd push for some dirko or yamabond/threebond. Never put an engine together without it.

I don't want to hijack Chappy's thread (again...) but since you seem to have some experience with the YamaBond stuff, I gotta ask - can you get the sealed/bonded parts back apart again ?

For instance - the 'standard' recommendation for the 911 case and cam tower assembly is one of the LocTite anaerobic sealants which I know I can get back apart the next time.

But I've also heard that while the good news on the xxxBond products is that the seal is permanent, the bad news is that the seal is permanent.

How do you get the stuff to release for the next rebuild ?

[rick 918-S]

...I'd push for some dirko or yamabond/threebond. Never put an engine together without it.

I don't want to hijack Chappy's thread (again...) but since you seem to have some experience with the YamaBond stuff, I gotta ask - can you get the sealed/bonded parts back apart again ?

For instance - the 'standard' recommendation for the 911 case and cam tower assembly is one of the LocTite anaerobic sealants which I know I can get back apart the next time.

But I've also heard that while the good news on the xxxBond products is that the seal is permanent, the bad news is that the seal is permanent.

How do you get the stuff to release for the next rebuild ?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Propane torch. It releases like lock-tite.

Any pictures or video?

[ArtechnikA]

Propane torch. It releases like lock-tite.

How hot do I have to get stuff? There's a limit to how much I want to be waving a torch around a magnesium engine case...

Any pictures or video?

of what?

[iamchappy]

Rich look here for all the answers.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=284737


Three bond 1104

[ArtechnikA]

Rich look here for all the answers.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=284737

Thanks! That thread has been bookmarked for sure !

[rick 918-S]

Propane torch. It releases like lock-tite.

How hot do I have to get stuff? There's a limit to how much I want to be waving a torch around a magnesium engine case...

Any pictures or video?

of what?

Of chappy's car in motion with sound. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[iamchappy]

I really like driving the car again! This is FUN!!!!!

I plan on dropping the engine to do the valve adjustment when i get a few more miles on it then i will try to seal everything up better myself if i can do it without tearing it apart.

I will work on a video for you guys but i still haven't pulled the engine to red line yet...

[byndbad914]

...The car was running on the hot side most of the time, it sat around 240 ...

if you are running a quality oil like Brad Penn or similar, 240deg is nothing. I have worked with circle track cars and even my car has sustained 300deg+ temps. I watched a team run a Late Model car at 350deg temps for 100 laps.

If I run at sustained 300deg temps on and off during a track day, just change the oil afterward. My friend with a dirt car took the oil temp gauge out of his car cuz he just didn't even want to know how bad it was anymore (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) and he runs it all season long at what I would guess is at least 350deg.

You are smart to not want to run oil hot - it isn't the best idea, I just want to let you know that under power it should heat up a bit and as long as you aren't clearing 300deg and sustaining you should be fine. If you drove that car every day and averaged 280deg I wouldn't even baulk at that personally. 240deg is a great number for general driving.

And as mentioned, 'til she breaks in a bit expect the thing to cook a little. Every engine I have ever broke in just cooks on the dyno under load. Cherry red headers are not uncommon on a dyno break in, even with correct A/F ratios and so forth.

Congrats on the car BTW. Nice looker for sure! I am guessing based on liter displacement and an atmosphere of boost (15psi) you are making in the neighborhood of 375HP give or take 25HP - is that what you are expecting? If so, 400 HP will feel like a rocket engine in that car. At ~420HP here at altitude my car (which is heavier than yours) is still fast.

At sea level and 525HP the car would literally jump up and bitch slap me when I hit the throttle (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) It would literally feel like all Hell broke loose, then I would have to yank 2nd at 60mph almost as instantly. I scared the crap outta myself the first time I drove it - now I am so used to it that it seems completely drive-able and I would be bummed with less than 400HP.

edit - oh yeah, just go to redline. I personally never put an engine in a car and break it in - I put it on the dyno and break it in. 15 minutes of general running at around 2K rpm, then let her cool, fire up and at least three pulls to max rpm AFTER a few initial pulls to slowly higher rpm levels to check A/Fs, VEs etc and make sure I am not too lean or seeing detonation, so forth and to get timing right. So I put at least 6-8 WOT pulls on a new engine day one. I break in on the dyno cuz it is easy to tune and especially for stated oil leaks - it is inevitable that if I dyno, no leaks but put in the car it will leak every time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[iamchappy]

Thanks for the info, the engine has not been running over 210 the last few times i have had it out, I have a 7th injector enriching the fuel on boost so my A/Rs are rich enough now to redline it. I will go out and start driving it like it is meant to be driven. I just wanted to be a little cautious.

[byndbad914]

Thanks for the info, the engine has not been running over 210 the last few times i have had it out, I have a 7th injector enriching the fuel on boost so my A/Rs are rich enough now to redline it. I will go out and start driving it like it is meant to be driven. I just wanted to be a little cautious.

agree - be cautious until the AFs are right (like the test runs I do on the dyno), get it evened out and start running it. In fact, I would honestly recommend getting it on a chassis dyno ASAP and tune it there in a controlled environment where you can run at WOT all the way through 4th gear and get good AF ratio measurements. Again, do it is steps... WOT to 4K, check the values and tune as necessary. WOT to 5K... so forth 'til max rpm. Then after you see it running good up to redline, start tuning the timing 2 deg adv at a time and verify detonation and AFs, tune as necessary. Get it tuned on the dyno and you will know for certain what you have (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[iamchappy]

I have to address getting clear stone guard film for the car. The few times i have had it out i have picked up some chips on the rear flares. The wide sticky RA1's on the front i am sure are the culprit.

I am getting an estimate from a shop near by to do the front edges of the flares the valance, headlight covers and hood.

[PeeGreen 914]

I hope you are looking into Venture Shield. it is the best clear protector out there.

[iamchappy]

The shop i called in the neighborhood does the 3m product. i will check to see if there is anyone in the area that installs that also. thanks!

[iamchappy]

I just found an installer of the VENTURE SHIELD so close that i could push my car there.

[PeeGreen 914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) My paint isn't nice enough to care but once it is I will be doing that too.