The official chappy 914-6-gt-turbo carrera thread, The car is real scary to drive, clutch is broke in, im not! Options

[byndbad914]

I have to address getting clear stone guard film for the car. The few times i have had it out i have picked up some chips on the rear flares. The wide sticky RA1's on the front i am sure are the culprit.

I am getting an estimate from a shop near by to do the front edges of the flares the valance, headlight covers and hood.

look at the rear fender... that is after only 4 or 5 track days (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) The sticky tires really chuck the rocks for sure (slicks are really bad when hot of course)

[aircooledboy]

I'm a little late, but: Big time congrats on lighting the candle Chappy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Now, fix your little problems and drive the hell out of it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[iamchappy]

Well after getting to drive he car a bit now i think i have the oil leak locations pinned down to the thru case bolts and head stud fastener area, So i used a little spray seal on the through case bolts to see if will slow things down some, until i get it fixed properly.

My stage 2 pressure plate wont completely hold on blast off it slips a little but that may not be a bad thing because i am running a 901 box still, the slipping may help with the torque overload.

I am also putting the headers back on to see if it will help in the mid top range. i think
the stock HE's may be restricting it some. When it gets cold up here i will put the HE's back on at the sacrifice of a little performance for heat.

The car is a blast and everywhere i go it draws a crowd, even the Porsche snobs at the coffee shop and the dealership had to succumb to the coolness factor and were wowed.

[byndbad914]

Man, you really did do a nice finishing job on that car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) I bet it does draw attention and is that nice pat-on-the-back after so much work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Be careful about the slipping clutch as a fail-safe... it is easy to "blue" a disk and then it won't grip for crap after that. Essentially you cook the outer surface of the organic disk nice and hard, so instead of having a soft, grippy interface it will not grab.

It is similar to the problems with kevlar disks - they are so hard they wear really well but slip much easier than an organic disk due to the harder surface (at least that is my understanding why they don't grip as well).

[TJB/914]

Hi Chappy,

Your car is beautiful (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) You did the 914-world good, I can't wait to see in in the flesh.

I want to grow up to be just like you Chappy or Steve in FL. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

Tom

[iamchappy]

Blizzy from what Qarl has told me about your car, yours is close to perfection...

[iamchappy]

The spray seal worked on the through case bolts on the bottom that i can get to.
Now just a little leaking from above, which i can assume are also the through case bolts under the shroud i cant get to now. When i drop the engine to do the valves i will see if i can get those sealed as well. So i consider this a small victory.
I removed the stock HE's and installed the headers and i was right, the HE's were restricting the engine from around 4200 up. The headers made a huge difference it pulls strong now no lag just hold on.

I received my oil temp fan switch for the front mounted oil cooler so i am about to install and wire that in, and i picked up some front slotted and drilled rotors for the bling effect. The solid rotors on the front are basically new and i know the slotted drilled are more for the bling than anything but i got such a great deal on them i couldn't pass them up.
More pictures will come soon.

[ArtechnikA]

If you ever dare drive that screamer in the rain, you will like the slotted rotors...

[J P Stein]

Your thru bolts should have an O ring (one use) under each nut & bolt head. I've never seen one leak. Easy enuff to check.......

[iamchappy]

I am sure the engine builder put the o-rings in there, but everything i have read says a little rtv should also be used on the washer that cups the o-ring. i was able to stop the leaking from the bottom ones with the Permatex spray stuff...

[J P Stein]

No sealer except silicone *grease* to lube the O ring.....it has to move.

[sixnotfour]

Curious , Is it leaking on the Bolt Head side or the Nut side or both ?

[iamchappy]

Both...

[jim912928]

Chappy, you might want to check out GHL headers with heat. I bought them direct (they are in arizona)...great guys to work with and a really excellent finished product. They have 1 3/4 and 1 5/8 diameter systems. Mine isn't installed yet (trying to get motivated to start the 3.2l install)....here is a pic:

[iamchappy]

I will sacrifice some performance and use my stock HE's when things start chilling up here but getting a new large diameter tube set has crossed my mine.

[Brando]

To answer your question about the Yamabond/threebond... best way is either with a razor blade in the solvent tank (careful not to gouge those critical surfaces!) or by taking it to the machinist when they align-bore it and true the mating surfaces.

Of course, the idea of rebuilding and blueprinting an engine, then using the sealants mentioned, is that it should not have to come back apart any time soon.

At the shop i worked at, we had a real problem... We'd do an engine rebuild -- they ran so good and never leaked, we'd never see the owner nor car except for oil changes and regular maintenance.

[ArtechnikA]

To answer your question about the Yamabond/threebond... best way is either with a razor blade in the solvent tank (careful not to gouge those critical surfaces!) or by taking it to the machinist when they align-bore it and true the mating surfaces.

Thanks for the response.

But I still don't understand how those techniques will help me get my glued-together case back apart when it's time

Of course, the idea of rebuilding and blueprinting an engine, then using the sealants mentioned, is that it should not have to come back apart any time soon.

Sure - I get that. I hope it's true, especially for a 911 bottom end. OTOH - I'm building a 2,8RSR clone, possibly in stages (first with some overbored cylinders, later with Nickies) which should still not involve disturbing the bottom end, but the reality is that's real close to the limit for a mag case and I'm expecting to freshen mains more frequently than a just-street engine.

[iamchappy]

Sunday, Paul aka (Lotus-65) was over and we attempted to shoot a video of my car running through the gears, I made up a camera hat so the camera was mounted on the bill of my cap, this was so i could look at the gauges to analyze the A/R's and boost on replay and Paul had a hand held video cam to catch the ride.

All i can say is we are both idiots, in my attempts to start my hat cam, i kept turning it off instead of on and Paul shot the entire time in the infrared mode. so we have nothing to show you....

I will try again......

[iamchappy]

I did it again, i am a complete idiot (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) . i just went and made two full out heart stopping gear shifting runs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) and had the camera off while doing it and had it on the whole time the things sitting on the center cushion..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[tronporsche]

....and , TAKE..........3.........