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type11969 |
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#66
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,231 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Collingswood, NJ Member No.: 1,410 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
Thanks Jeff!
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Jeff Hail |
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#67
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Didnt get anything done for two weeks. Fire's, house stuff and other distractions took over.
Had a nice solid 4 hours to play today. Cut and trimmed the remainder of the old panels, flanges and junk out. Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Jeff Hail |
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#68
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Prepped the flanges and seams for the inner and outer firewalls.
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Jeff Hail |
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#69
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Passenger side of the tunnel was just surface rust and came right off with a conditioning pad. Good solid clean metal.
Drivers side very rear of the tunnel has some corrosion that I will need to replace a small section of the last 2-3 inches at floor flange. It's only metal I tell you! Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() |
Rand |
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#70
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Cross Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,413 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None ![]() |
Just wanted to give you a virtual high five here Jeff. This is good stuff. Your thread is destined to be a classic that will help a lot of people. Thanks for digging in deep and sharing the progress with us.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) |
Jeff Hail |
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#71
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Mocked up the inner and outer firewalls to see how everything fits. No welds just loose.
The outer is a NOS piece and the two lower inners are AA. The AA parts fit pretty damn good. All the locating holes and boss's line right up with the original piece. (George I am impressed) Before I weld these in I will repair the tunnel. I also need to modify the outer firewall because my car is a 75 and the NOS part is for an early car. I will resize the shifter bushing reinforcement to match the later bushings. I will also need to repair the tunnel lines. I had to cut them to get the PO's previous horrors out of the way. McMaster-Carr has the correct size tubing available. I have a few improvements in store from the factory design anyway. The factory E brake handle, location, tubes and elbow's are going away. I have a 1995 993 E Brake assembly that will go between the seats. Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Jeff Hail |
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#72
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Kind of looks like a 914 again!
Still lots to do. Stay tuned for the next episode of "Fun with Clecos" Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() |
Jeff Hail |
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#73
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
One last thing for the day. It is possible to get the J-Tubes out without opening up the longs. My passenger side is open and the driver side is still closed for now. They have 2-4 spot welds holding the bracket. It can be wrangled out.
Get them back in with the longs closed up? Optimisticly I think it can be done. If the silencer pulls off at the front tube is another story. |
Jeff Hail |
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#74
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Just wanted to give you a virtual high five here Jeff. This is good stuff. Your thread is destined to be a classic that will help a lot of people. Thanks for digging in deep and sharing the progress with us. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) To quote my good friend Mac Tilton "knowledge should be shared...unless of course it is a competing race team then throw tarps over everything". |
Jeff Hail |
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#75
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Anyone with an early car know what these holes are for? The holes line up on the inner fire wall and inside the shift rod housing on the outer firewall.
I checked all my disassembly photo's and do not see it on the late body. Just wondering what they are for? Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() |
1970 Neun vierzehn |
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#76
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,199 Joined: 16-March 06 From: cincinnati, ohio Member No.: 5,727 ![]() |
Anyone with an early car know what these holes are for? The holes line up on the inner fire wall and inside the shift rod housing on the outer firewall. I checked all my disassembly photo's and do not see it on the late body. Just wondering what they are for? Jeff, First, let me heartily applaud your work. The scope, quality, care, attention to detail, and the sheer magnitude of the project are all evident in your (also quality) photos. I salute you. With regard to the extra hole, in what the Porsche parts book refers to as "back wall, lower part", there is a part (and number) assigned to the /6 (1970 only) that could possibly be what you are installing, which was originally intended for use in a /6. I can't speak for the differences between the /4 and /6 down in the rear bulkhead/backwall where you are working. Sounds like it could be transmission related. The part # is 914.501.007.10 Paul |
sixnotfour |
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#77
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,950 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes, that hole is for a pivot ball , But for 4 cylinder only. The six uses a simple two bolt type u-joint .
Here is the six wall peice , It has the motor mount welded to it. (note: the black piece is the part that bolts to engine.) Keep up the great work. Attached image(s) ![]() |
Wes V |
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#78
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 482 Joined: 11-October 07 From: Los angeles Member No.: 8,211 ![]() |
For those that may not know;
Clecos are clamps that are used as temporary pop rivets during the fabrication and fitting of parts. If you look at the photo Jeff posted showing the plastic box full of Clecos, you will see what looks like a set of plyers. That's the tool that is used to install and remove the cleco. Wes |
davep |
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#79
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914 Historian ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,314 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada ![]() ![]() |
Jeff, can you take some good photos of that panel before you install it, and post them in the parts vault please.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...amp;s=&f=46 |
Jeff Hail |
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#80
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Stuff that is easier to do now than later.
I am using an early firewall (PN# 914-501-119-10) which is for a 914/4 thru 1971 to be put on the 1975 body. The NOS firewall does not come with a speedo cable spigot tube. The early firewall has some differences. I will update and modify according to my build. The Speedo Cable Spigot Tube Lets build one.......... The old section versus the replacement. Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Jeff Hail |
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#81
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Wondering how I flaired the tube? After rummaging through the tool and junk box's for something shaped like a ball or cone I decided on a ballpeen hammer.
I knew that round end was good for something! Put the 1-1/4 inch long stub on the ground. Put the round head inside and smacked it a few times with an even bigger hammer until I reached the desired shape. That myth of hitting a hammer with another hammer is BS by the way. Attached image(s) ![]() |
Jeff Hail |
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#82
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Mig welded the spigot to the firewall and some primer. Done!
Don't forget to remove any burrs or sharp edges from the inside of the tube. Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() |
Jeff Hail |
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#83
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Moving along to the E-Brake Cable delete.
Cut out a rectangle of sheetmetal and punched some holes in it. Spot weld it to the firewall. I almost tacked it to the wrong side! Ooops. Caught in time. Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Jeff Hail |
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#84
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
A little finishing with a grinder and conditioning pad. Looks like factory "knockouts" on the engine compartment side. Porsche never had knockouts here except for the 6 cylinder oil tank holes on the driver side wheelhouse. Still looks clean.
If for some reason my E-Brake conversation to the 1995 993 center pull becomes a problem I can always resort back to the original design and add the elbows back in with minimal work. Always plan ahead for curves in the road. Attached image(s) ![]() |
Jeff Hail |
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#85
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,141 Joined: 3-May 07 From: LA/ CA Member No.: 7,712 ![]() |
Some more holes that need to go away.
The mystery hole to the left of the shiftrod exit on the outer firewall. Gone! Inner lower driver side firewall matching mystery hole. Gone! I kind of like the "knockout look". These don't show so I am not going to waste time metal finishing the recess. Also the two holes on the inner firewall for the E-Brake cable delete. Gone! Same procedure. Fab a plate and punch some holes. Spot weld it to the backside. Wait! those two holes have a raised boss. Better get rid of those also and make it smooth. Hammer and dolly. A great tool is the Punch/ Flanger. On one side it has a hole punch which really is an effortless time saver. After drilling out over 500 spot welds at this point in the project I look forward to it. On the other side of the head is a flanger. Great for lapping panels and floors. Makes a nice finished step in sheetmetal and looks professional. Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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