My car has cancer, Please help |
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My car has cancer, Please help |
zen motorcycle |
Oct 8 2007, 10:13 PM
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#1
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almost not a newbie ( way less than a newbie) Group: Members Posts: 259 Joined: 21-May 06 From: Dallas Member No.: 6,038 Region Association: None |
I removed the longs because I just knew there would be rust in there and I was right.
How bad is it and what are the repair techniques? Seems to be limited to just around the jack points and one other area on the right side about 3/4 of the way up where foam was touching. start from the begining for me I did a search, but didn't come up with much for the beginner metal worker. Thanks More pics available, just tell me if anything would be helpfull in the treatment Attached thumbnail(s) Attached image(s) |
Rand |
Oct 8 2007, 10:56 PM
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#2
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Cross Member Group: Members Posts: 7,409 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None |
Here are a couple of my favorite threads:
michelko's: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748 cdmcse's: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=25165 Oh, and Jeff Hail recently started a great one: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791 Some other key word searches that might work include: hell hole, rustoration, frame rail rust, suspension console rust |
rjames |
Oct 8 2007, 11:53 PM
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#3
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,928 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Doesn't look much worse than mine was. It looks like a fairly easy fix, especially if you weld. If not, it just means you should learn! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Start by grinding all that rust down to bare metal to see how much metal you have left in that area. I used a 1/4" drill with a stripping disk, and also a dremmel tool for those hard to reach areas. After you've done this, post some more pictures and I'm sure plenty of folks will chime in with advice. The threads that Rand posted are good ones, I studed them both long and hard before doing my repairs, even though mine weren't nearly that involved, they provided great info. |
Rand |
Oct 9 2007, 02:56 AM
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#4
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Cross Member Group: Members Posts: 7,409 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None |
Yes, for sure yours is no where near as bad as the other threads. I didn't mean to suggest that you would have to go through that kind of work. But great repair techniques and info therein.
I agree with Robert... Start by getting the rust off and see how extensive the damage is. Looks to me like the whole jack plate / post needs to come off. A cutting disc on a grinder, then a grinding wheel should take care of that. The metal on the frame rail under that may not be so bad. Once that rotted metal is gone, wire wheel all the rust off and see what you have. If you find the rust damage to the underlying metal is deep enough to threaten it's integrity severely, then you'll need to cut out the rotted metal and weld in some good sheet metal patches. There's a good chance it won't be that bad, but it's hard to tell yet. Then treat the metal that was rusty with Ospho (or rust converter of the like). Personally, I wouldn't bother putting another jack plate back on, but if you want to they should be readily available and you could weld a new one on. If you add new metal, it should probably be treated with Metal Ready or another etching primer. Then paint everything with Hammerite or POR15. |
tdgray |
Oct 9 2007, 07:49 AM
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#5
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Thank God Nemo is not here to see this Group: Members Posts: 9,705 Joined: 5-August 03 From: Akron, OH Member No.: 984 Region Association: None |
That's not rust... sheesh... you guys are spoiled.
Seriously... that looks like an easy fix. |
rhodyguy |
Oct 9 2007, 09:55 AM
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#6
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,076 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
show us the pass side rear portion of the long. that driver's side long is no biggie at this ooint. be prepared for more heartache the deeper you go.
k |
rmital |
Oct 9 2007, 09:59 AM
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#7
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Northeast optimist Group: Members Posts: 1,947 Joined: 12-December 05 From: Park Ridge, NJ Member No.: 5,268 |
That's not rust... sheesh... you guys are spoiled. Seriously... that looks like an easy fix. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) |
brer |
Oct 9 2007, 11:06 AM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,555 Joined: 10-March 05 From: san diego Member No.: 3,736 Region Association: None |
I did the same repair. My blog has pictures.
easy to do, though accessing the top of the jack point for welding will be near impossible without cutting the quarter panel. A jack point delete might make the job easier, but I chose to keep them. You can expect to lay in a couple layers of metal at the jack point, not a big deal. One thing I would worry about is rust inside the long. Maybe someone else has experience as to when its adviseable to open it and treat the inside? SirAndy sprayed the inside of his with metal ready as I recall. |
rmital |
Oct 9 2007, 11:36 AM
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#9
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Northeast optimist Group: Members Posts: 1,947 Joined: 12-December 05 From: Park Ridge, NJ Member No.: 5,268 |
A jack point delete might make the job easier.... first pic was of cut from a piece of outer shell...second was just layering metal I was going for easier Attached image(s) |
Rand |
Oct 9 2007, 12:39 PM
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#10
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Cross Member Group: Members Posts: 7,409 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None |
That's not rust... sheesh... you guys are spoiled. Seriously... that looks like an easy fix. I agree. An easy fix. Compared to mine. Here's how spoiled I was: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Attached image(s) |
rhcb914 |
Oct 9 2007, 12:54 PM
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#11
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member Group: Members Posts: 358 Joined: 3-February 04 From: Boston, MA Member No.: 1,626 |
I had the same issues a couple years back. It really wasn't that difficult to repair. If you end up opening up the longs I would treat them with Por 15 or some rust preventing paint. I used an engine detail gun to reach into the longs. They are cheap from harbor freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=3953 The hardest part was welding the top of the jack support. I ended up cutting the door jam to get access rather than cutting the fender. I didn't want to have to repaint the quarter pannels. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=27066&hl= Good luck!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) |
dflesburg |
Oct 9 2007, 01:10 PM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,720 Joined: 6-April 04 From: Warm and Cheerful Centerville Ohio Member No.: 1,896 Region Association: None |
Zen,
Your car is terminal, if you ship it to me along with $250 I will dispose of it properly for you. |
zen motorcycle |
Oct 9 2007, 04:22 PM
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#13
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almost not a newbie ( way less than a newbie) Group: Members Posts: 259 Joined: 21-May 06 From: Dallas Member No.: 6,038 Region Association: None |
Zen, Your car is terminal, if you ship it to me along with $250 I will dispose of it properly for you. Funny, I bought the car from a guy in Ohio! I knew it wasn't bad, just looking for a step by step for fixing it, Gage sheet metal to use, or if there were replacement pieces available that I could just weld in. Thanks again guys more to come |
zen motorcycle |
Oct 10 2007, 10:09 AM
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#14
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almost not a newbie ( way less than a newbie) Group: Members Posts: 259 Joined: 21-May 06 From: Dallas Member No.: 6,038 Region Association: None |
What are some good resources to buy NOS or repro parts like the jack post supports or outer longs? Or do I just find a donor?
Thanks |
Allan |
Oct 10 2007, 10:41 AM
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#15
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Teenerless Weenie Group: Members Posts: 8,373 Joined: 5-July 04 From: Western Mesopotamia Member No.: 2,304 Region Association: Southern California |
Do a google search for Restoration Design.
They make repro sheetmetal parts. |
type11969 |
Oct 10 2007, 11:56 AM
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#16
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,231 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Collingswood, NJ Member No.: 1,410 Region Association: North East States |
Or you could just fab it all yourself using what you have left as a template and make paper templates where you need them:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...f=2&t=66637 Its not tough, just time consumping I suppose. What you have looks easy to repair by fabbing yourself. -Chris |
G e o r g e |
Oct 10 2007, 12:06 PM
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#17
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Dr Group: Members Posts: 1,905 Joined: 20-September 05 From: Southern Cal Member No.: 4,832 Region Association: None |
repro parts
and put up a want to buy in the classifieds, you will be surprised at how many people have parts laying around (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
zen motorcycle |
Oct 13 2007, 08:38 PM
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#18
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almost not a newbie ( way less than a newbie) Group: Members Posts: 259 Joined: 21-May 06 From: Dallas Member No.: 6,038 Region Association: None |
Here comes the heart ache
Passenger side ling is not nearly as nice. I have some floor board/firewall rust as well. The POS had covered these up with pieces of tin and screws then put undercoating over it to hide it. Didn't see it till I started stripping everything (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Pics of passenger side Firewall |
zen motorcycle |
Oct 13 2007, 08:39 PM
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#19
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almost not a newbie ( way less than a newbie) Group: Members Posts: 259 Joined: 21-May 06 From: Dallas Member No.: 6,038 Region Association: None |
Right Long underside
support plate. Notice the silver goo along the firewall.. not sure what that is yet, but it can't be good |
zen motorcycle |
Oct 13 2007, 08:41 PM
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#20
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almost not a newbie ( way less than a newbie) Group: Members Posts: 259 Joined: 21-May 06 From: Dallas Member No.: 6,038 Region Association: None |
Front of long
Right side long outside |
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