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> waterborn paints, here they come, like it or not, comeing to Canada, and California
TimT
post Feb 1 2009, 09:04 PM
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The one thing no one seems to be able to answer for me is how do you put a waterborne primer on top of bare metal and not have an immediate flash rust issue ?


Pretty easy.... you can mix water and vinegar?

same as waterborne etching primer..

I have no problem with the new generation of paints... The less solvent and chemical exposure I see the better...

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rick 918-S
post Feb 1 2009, 11:11 PM
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As with anything there is a learning curve. It is interesting about waterborne primer causing possible flash rust. I wouldn't worry about that too much. Were not going to be required to use that just yet. I think by the time were subjected to that they will come up with a primer that contains acid as a coalesing solvent.

I snatched the following from an government web site.

"Waterborne (or latex) paints are composed of synthetic resins and pigments that are kept dispersed in water by surfactants. They also contain small amounts of coalescing solvents. Waterborne paints dry by evaporation of the water. The coalescing solvents allow the resin particles to fuse together (coalesce) as the water evaporates to form a continuous coating."

I think a bigger problem with waterborne primer would be adhesion. Because of the alloy steel in new car sheetmetal there needs to be a 36 grit grinder mark in the panel for even sovent based primer to bond. That's why we were introduced to acid based primers. This promoted a chemical bond inplace of the mechanical bond of solvent based primers to old mild steel body panels of the early iron.

Now, waterborne paints are not mixed with tap water. You purchase a solvent type water. You mix the base coat with a water that contains coalesing solvents. So, the solvents hold the base coat in suspension and allow the water to evaporate. Not enough air moving and the works could skin over trapping water in the base coat. So I would think the coalessing solvent is very slow to coales or flash allowing the water to excape.

Oh, and I saw an episode of trucks or something where they used waterborne paint of one of their projects. I think they were using a figgin heat gun to aid in air movement and evaporation.
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TimT
post Feb 1 2009, 11:52 PM
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Rick, do yourself a favor and buy a introductory kit from Auto Air Colors..

I think you will change your tune regarding waterborne paints pretty quickly.

Really.... spray some paint... then clean the gun with tap water...
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charliew
post Feb 1 2009, 11:53 PM
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My friends new spraybooth is almost like riding a motorcycle it's so windy. It's heated and windy. I would think the waterborne paints could be shot thinner and with more coats if you are a hobbiest.

My first job as a painter was spraying porcelain on a moving convair line, porcelain was ground colored glass mixed with water. My job before painting was the paint mixer. It was called the mill room. The porcelain was mixed in huge 500, 1000, and 1500, and 2000 lb. tumblers/grinders. The painters each had 80 gallon pots and usually used three pots a shift. I actually developed my right side more than the left. Sometimes we worked two shifts. If a panel got runs or trash in it or someone mishandled it, someone just took it off the hangers and swept it down with a broom and put it back on the line and we repainted it. The oven was part of the line and the heat even in the winter was enough to dry the porcelain in about three to five minutes, We were spraying and the oven was on the other side of the room. We each were infront of a three sided enclosure with big exhaust fans to pull most of the mist away from each painter. There were two on the good side and one painter on the back side. If the convair ever stopped the parts in the oven would be ruined. The overhead convair was a big oval, The room was about 280 feet by 100 feet and the oven was about 150 feet long. The parts would be dark red in the center. Some of the panels were 16 feet long by about 18 inches wide with 5 inch sides and interlocking flanges. These were filling station roof panels. The stations had lifetime warranty's on the panels. The whole station was sheeted with these porcelain panels. We were painting mild steel and never had a problem with rust of any kind. 1964, 1.50 a hour.

I was thinking the chev. trucks that all peeled were the first attempt at painting with waterborne top coats over regular primer.

I have used autoair on motorcycle tanks. You can try something and if you don't like it just wipe it off with a damp cloth but you better also resand it with 4 or 600 to make sure nothing is left in the paint scratches or it will show up when you get out in the sun after it's been cleared. Not a happy situation to have ghost skulls were you don't expect them.

I'm not sure if the waterborne paints are as durable in the sun as the old stuff.
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rick 918-S
post Feb 2 2009, 12:04 AM
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QUOTE(TimT @ Feb 1 2009, 09:52 PM) *

Rick, do yourself a favor and buy a introductory kit from Auto Air Colors..

I think you will change your tune regarding waterborne paints pretty quickly.

Really.... spray some paint... then clean the gun with tap water...



I'm confused. What are you saying? I'm not upposed to the stuff. Infact I'm thinking there is alot of mis-information or lack of information about it's use. I think it will be pretty much user friendly once you use it a few times.

Are you saying you don't like it?
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TimT
post Feb 2 2009, 12:14 AM
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Sorry Rick, maybe got some posts mixed up
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