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detoxcowboy
When replacing the outer longitudinal what can I expect for issues, keeping the car aligned? removal of old? refitting new ect.. I am asking prior to attempting for the first time so treat me as an ignorant. I do not want to miss align or have the car sag in half on me or something like that..
detoxcowboy
QUOTE(detoxcowboy @ Nov 2 2009, 11:35 AM) *

When replacing the outer longitudinal what can I expect for issues, keeping the car aligned? removal of old? refitting new ect.. I am asking prior to attempting for the first time so treat me as an ignorant. I do not want to miss align or have the car sag in half on me or something like that..


Bump.... confused24.gif icon_bump.gif drunk.gif No one has done this? Any input appreciated? I know there are rusted inside out longs sagging out there.. poke.gif
SirAndy
Leave the top on. Remove the door. Add bracing to the door opening. Ideally a triangle from the striker plate to the upper front mount to the upper seat-belt mount. Do all that while the car is still on the ground. If you make the bracing adjustable, you can re-measure while you're working on the long and adjust if needed.

Dimensions are here:

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

http://www.914world.com/specs/underdims.php


When welding large parts, try to move around to different spots to let your welds cool. Too much heat in one spot will shrink the metal.


Do a search here, there are a few very good step by step pictorials of a complete long replacement.
sawzall-smiley.gif smash.gif welder.gif Andy
detoxcowboy
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Nov 2 2009, 08:44 PM) *

Leave the top on. Remove the door. Add bracing to the door opening. Ideally a triangle from the striker plate to the upper front mount to the upper seat-belt mount. Do all that while the car is still on the ground. If you make the bracing adjustable, you can re-measure while you're working on the long and adjust if needed.

Dimensions are here:

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

http://www.914world.com/specs/underdims.php


When welding large parts, try to move around to different spots to let your welds cool. Too much heat in one spot will shrink the metal.

Do a search here, there are a few very good step by step pictorials of a complete long replacement.
sawzall-smiley.gif smash.gif welder.gif Andy



Andy thank you brother!!, that all I needed and then some.. Joe
SirAndy
One more. Remove the engine and transmission. Not only will it take weight off the car while it's up in the air, it'll also make access to everything much, much easier ...

Take as much weight off as you can.
popcorn[1].gif Andy
rick 918-S
There are many guys that have posted detailed photo documentation of the process here on this site. Use the search function when you get ready to start and take the lap top out to the shop with you. Don't get discouraged, you can do it. smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif welder.gif smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif welder.gif
jimkelly
see this

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748
detoxcowboy
Thank You every body!! Definately Something I want to do and as with most projects thus far I should uncover the "reality" of the depth of doing such work. I am detailed and a perfectionist syill never perfect(slurring). I am sure once I get going into rustoration, the project will grow considerabley. Good to know that others have treaded where I want to learn. I will ask again w/ pics when I am in it. But I am thinking now that it would be smart to finsh the engine shelfs, jack posts and stop until summer as I work in a driveway and am readying for paint in 3 weeks which means just about a complete disassemble of everything I have restored so far. God I which I had a shop, lift and a rotessirie, engine stand and of course more tools. I am just a perma dirt backed gravel head. Until Summer,... drunk.gif
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