QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Dec 14 2009, 06:41 PM)
QUOTE(tod914 @ Dec 7 2009, 10:16 PM)
Pat to clairify, it was the black coating put on either by the dealer or the factory as an option, after the paint. Have to get a COA to determine who did it. It's certinaly not the Ziebart that's on there. I'll try to get some shots so you see what I mean. I guess it's possible it's tar, but seems to be more of a rubbery compound.
Tod,
A COA will probably NOT list any rustproofing, factory or dealer.
So, let's get the the facts together on early '70's Ziebart. That way, we can segregate the Ziebart from the factory coatings.
Ziebart was tar-based. May have had some wax tossed into it also, but I don't know. What I do know is that a Ziebart treated car had numerous holes drilled into body cavities and structiral parts, to allow spraying the compound into them.
On a 914, these areas included:
Rear door jambs
Front and rear structural hood elements
Sail panels
Holes were drilled, sprayed into & then capped with plugs. The entire rest of the underbody was sprayed with the same substance. Most cars that have had the treatment still have it on suspension pieces, because the folks at Ziebart thought they were doing a good thing (which they were).
Ziebart was not a fools folly - it worked, and still does today. Thiers was a well thought out process that actually helped protect cars, particularly in the rust belt of this country.
Now, with that said, the factory wheel well coating was a Schutz compound, which is rubber based and paintable.
Both compounds, after these many years, are renewable and paintable. See my earlier text on renewing.
Now,the easy way to determine a Ziebart-treated car.......look for the yellow/black/red plastic plugs covering the drilled holes.
Hope this helps.
Pat
Thanx for clarifying that Pat. I recall the Ziebart treatment system now, but would've never allowed anyone to punch holes in my 914, esp. with it being overkill out here in Calif., where only sand & cinders were ever used on the mountain roads & high passes with snow.
And yes, I did take mine up there with ski racks to ski, and was "caught" in snow on the Grapevine & Cajon Pass a few times as well!
So back in the 70's & early 80's it saw some snow, but has/had an aftermarket/dealer undercoating which looks similar to Tod's Red 73 in the pix above.
I'll need to remove all of my undercoating to go to bare metal & repair & re-prime/repaint everything, and would like to retreat it afterwards with the best available rubberized undercoating, which I'd probably not paint over & leave black cuz I like that look in the wheel wells on a white/light color car).
Is the Porsche body schutz the same product as the Wurth one which someone mentioned above, or a different product?
...if different, where can one get the original Porsche body schutz & by what name??
...& is it better, the same or not as good as either the Wurth & 3M etc. "modern" products for their intended purpose of rock/gouge & rust prevention??
Body Schutz IS a 3M product, and was the original used by the Factory, prior to painting.
"Schutz" is readily available in bulk (small quantities), or as an aerosol spray. I don't recommend the aerosol beacuse it does not "lay on" with the original texture.
A pressure gun (35 psi) is available for the bulk product. I have one around here somewhere, though haven't seen it in 20+ years. If I can find it, you're welcomed to use it.
What I said earlier about the aerosol product is not meant to mean tht it doesn't work well - just doesn't give the proper texture.
If you want to see the "proper" texture, search for my find on a "snow plow" rear valence. It has the perfect, original texture on the rear (unpainted), and the perfect texture (painted over) on the front side. The aerosol has a the wrong spray head to duplicate this finish.
