First prototype of a critical component:

I hope it's not part of the latest, super-snug racing harness

6 cylinder header.

a couple of half spheres and some daps of propely applied JB weld and you would have a nice rack...

Looks like a merged header....

Did Tom call you?

Rich

Umbrella holder....

I hope not too.

huh?

He did not.

Stuart Little could use one this size.

Can you be more specific?

Chia?

It,s a BASE for an internally wired (3) three head ,flexable, halogen, floor mounted SHOP LIGHT!!!!! or a (3) way slop sink drain line connector,....or a special fitting for your moonshine still.....or a fitting for brake calaper ducting,in which the third fitting is for nitrogen to cool the rotor....or its a new component for the christmas special Ronco "slicer dicer" which we can not live without again this year...or it,s a collector for one bank of a "six" racing exhaust....or a not gonna be very successful intake manafold for a four banger with a big inspection hole. or a (overly optismitic )carb jet holder for your newest race engine...or a much needed heater system connector so both H/Es will work...or a top for the inevatable "chia pet" another plant my home cannot be without.....

I've got 4 of those holding my awning togetherat the corners.

Boxster?

A 3 to 2 to 1 header for a 911 6? angles look very broad for a 3-1 (single side)

3-person bong?

You put your pot in there.

shotgun shot glass?

Ch.. ch.. ch.. Chia. Aren't those made of clay?

Wrong angles...

The topic is guess this part, not guess what it is part of.

Thats the best answer, but it isn't for a race header - at least not for now.

Every year one of my vendors has a christmas party and they have a ski with 4 shot glasses glued onto it. It would be a bit tough for 3 people to drink at once from a design like mine, unless they used straws.

My approach is different from what everyone else has already done - thinking outside the box here. I don't want to make a near copy of what already exists.
Looking at all the available products I see only these approaches:
1) Keep the price down by using a simple pipe arrangement and get the exhaust to the (stock type) muffler as quickly as possible, while still being able to say the primaries are equal length.
2) Add a crappy ss heat exchanger box to a crappy ss header and charge a sh..load of money for it.
3) Meticulously fabricate a very expensive full on stainless race header for a high rpm engine.

No one seems to have fully applied exhaust tuning principles to a street header. I'm designing a mid priced, H/T coated mild steel, high performance street header for engines that have a red line between 6500 & 7000 rpm. Both the primaries and secondaries are going to be tuned length, made for peak power near 6000 rpm. 1 1/2" and 1 5/8" sizes will be available.
This collector is a key ingredient. It is the shortest, easiest to fabricate and install, highest quality, smoothest flowing welded merge 3 into 1 collector available.
Not only that, I expect my stainless steel (dual outlet) muffler to be more free flowing, yet quieter, than anything else I've seen on the market. I also expect it to work with a WEVO 915 tranny, and it will be adaptable to the other popular headers.
One more thing, If you NEED to have a banana muffler but want the benefits of a higher quality tuned length header, it will be easy to adapt my header to the stock design muffler. My muffler will be lighter though. It will have better ground clearance by 2", and be made in .

Chris,

I have always wondered why we have had to settle for the cheap shit engineered crap that is out there in the market place.

Doesn't seem to be much out there other than yours that I would buy, (MHO)

Keep up the good work!

KP

cheap heat for my six conversion

So this is for an exhaust scavenging header like you do for the 4-clys?

Does that mean you are going 6 yourself, or just looking for a new market now that Jake does work on the watercooled 6's?

Yes.

It has nothing to do with Boxsters, and I'm not installing a six in any of my cars.
People have been asking me for years to do a six header. I knew I would get around to it someday, and even had a motor set up in the shop upside down waiting for me to start.
I had three inquiries in October and I have a customer conversion car nearing completion. When I looked around I wasn't satisfied with what is available so development is underway. The first one will go on a 3.2L that is being installed in the semi-916 project we have here.
The time has come.

Thank you!

Cool stuff, can't wait to see the results, in pictures and dyno figures!
3.2 with those headers will be mighty trick indeed.

Are you planning to do any pre-post dyno work?

Not quite sure I understand the question. I've already posted about the new product.
If you mean, am I going to get dyno results before offering the product for sale - the answer is no. I plan on dynoing the car that I am putting the protoype on but I am not doing any comparative testing. Quite frankly, I expect the price would go up if I relied on the dyno data to set my sales price. S-Car-Go has a 914-6 stainless header set that is $3300. That's just for the header. The primaries are too long and the secondaries will be way too short if you go straight from the collector to the banana muffler inlets.
I expect to offer my complete exhaust system at around $2300-2400 and I will accept pre-paid advance orders through Christmas (2009) for just $2000.
I'll be posting more pictures as progress continues over the next few days. The muffler is being assembled right now.

Here's a view of the partially built protptype muffler being test fitted to my car. So far everything is perfect. The muffler will weigh 27 lbs vs. more than 28 for the Dansk 2 in - 2 out we have here.
I think everyone elses mufflers have only one inlet size. Ours will be sized to match the header it goes to.

Muffler's done. It will fit behind a WEVO 915.

Any thoughts to making that same looking muffler but for a 4?

I believe I can make a nearly identical muffler that connects to modified SSI heater boxes. The result will be a 100% stainless exhaust with the stock heating system completely intact and power gain comparable to installing a European Racing Header.

Looks like an MK exhaust muffler.

Is there a reason that most N/A systems are done (2 X) 3 into 1 and then into a muffler?

I was expecting more of a a 6-3-1 header system like a 4-2-1 on a /4

The only thing in common is the 6" diameter shell.
Beyond that there is very little resemblance.

The firing order of a six essentially means the two banks of cylinders form independent 3 cylinder engines tied to a common crankshaft and out of phese from each other. A 6-2-1 exhaust would provide minimal added torque benefit for the difficulty of fabricating an effective header. It would be a little easier using the pipe lengths of a race exhaust for engines revving up to 9K rpm.
Two independent 2-1 headers is not beneficial to a Type 4 based on the cylinder firing order.

Sorry, I should have been clearer. A simmilar looking muffler that connects to a header. I have what I think is a stock muffler that someone converting into a GT style. I think it looks super cool and is loud which I also like, but I have a set of headers that I'm going to install, but ideally would like to retain the GT look. Sorry if this is highjacking the thread.

not likely gonna happen for a 4 cylinder header.

Looks top notch, as always.

Man a 3.2 with a 915 trans, those headers and muffler...that's one cool 914/6.

FWIW: I think your 4-2-1 header for the 4 is cool, totally sleeper, looks bone stock from outside

Cool! just wanted to know

Here's what the new muffler will look like with SSI heat exchangers on a four cylinder. The rear flanges of the SSIs will be removed and the pipes altered to connect with the muffler, which will be moved a little closer. The one shown is set way back to clear a WEVO on a -6.
By separating the primaries from each other it should be easier to seal them against the heads.
All 4 primary pipes will enter the muffler separately to eliminate negative sound reflections from going up the wrong pipe, and maintain the shortest possible lengths. Even though the pipe lengths will be unequal, I predict that this will produce more power than anything short of a full header system.

We should have the test system completed in a couple of days.

Looking forward to that stocker.

watching the progress...thanks Chris...

*SIGH* I was hoping this was the base and collector for that custom hookah I wanted.

Cool!

What's the plan for having the buyer modify stainless steel HE's for flanges to match the muffler? Wouldn't it be easier to have the flange on the muffler match the HE instead of the other way around? The HE already keeps the outlets separate for each cylinder. I've no doubt that you have a reason for doing it this way. Just curious what that is. Looking at it and reading your last post again it probably has something to do with bringing the muffler back in closer to the HE's?

There are a three options. Send your HEs to me for modification, trade them for one's I will have in stock already altered, or get it done locally.
The ones pictured are 1.7-1.8L and are too long for where I think the muffler should be positioned. 2.0L HE's are shorter but don't have the bend that brings the flange up to the appropriate height for my muffler. Both are identical to just behind the HE jacket.
Welding two inlets to my muffler so close together and with a big flange so close to the muffler body would be a real challenge, and they really wouldn't be separated enough to fully isolate the acoustic signal IMO.
By moving the outer pipe further out I shorten the longer pipes just a little more and make assembly much easier. At least that's the plan so far. We've started assembly of a new muffler but everything isn't set in stone yet.

On the six cylinder front:
Yesterday I realized that I don't have enough secondary pre-bent material in stock so I have to place an order for more J-bends.
I tack-welded the first primary pipe this morning.

Here are some pics of that custom hookah you wanted Mike :

So why up and over the half shafts? Not being critical Chris, just curious. Not knowing any better I'd have thought to mimick the stock914-6 h/e's as they flow so well.

All I know about exhaust is that bigger isn't better, the right size for your engine is better.

I'm guessing it has to do with the desired length of the un-merged pipes....is that correct Chris? I know exhaust tuning on the 2-strokes was a 'black art' maybe there's some of that to 4-strokes too...

Nathan is pretty much on target.
I could achieve the primary lengths I want if I stayed below the axles but not the secondary lengths. Tuning both will produce more midrange power. Its still going to be difficult getting the secondaries to the length I desire.

None of the other street headers take full advantage of scavenge wave tuning to maximize volumetric efficiency of the engine intake stroke.

Here is the racetrack version of the new header.

Chris,
I can't do what you do, but I do have an observation....

In this pict.....



It looks like you didn't leave enough room for the oil cooler, and the header is going to really radiate heat back into it. And you also have the scavange line to contend with.

It may be the angle of the shot though.....

Its just the angle of the shot.
There is plenty of clearance to the cooler and the hard line.