Can a novice rebuild a TypeIV? I figure, why not. This is my engine build thread. I actually started last December tearing down my tired 2.0 engine. My plan was to rebuild it using 96mm P/Cs and a set of Webers I already had. My plan was to source parts from the Type IV store and have Len Hoffman rebuild my heads. I had Jake balance the rotating parts as well.

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While I waited for parts and machine work, I had my 901 tranny rebuilt. I sent my gearstack to the good Dr. along with a couple of synchos and a set of dogteeth from another box. It was pretty straight forward putting it all back together. All new seals and a fillup with Swepco and it's good to go.

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New stack is in!
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New input shaft seal. Good time to clean and inspect the fork and throwout bearing.
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Another job I did in the interim was to rebuild the carbs and fabricate a linkage. There sure are a lot of little parts to a pair of carbs.

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The design I used connects the stock throttle cable to two cables, each going to a carb.
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Parts are here!!
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Clamping my flywheel to a workbench made a good solid stand for the crank.
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Rods are on.
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Here I made a stand to support one side of the case, high enough to be able to insert the case thru bolts from underneath.
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Anyone for some pan-seared cam drive gear with a side of dizzy drive gear? This worked really well for heating up the gears.
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Gears are on.
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Crank is done.
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Test fit crank. Nice and smooth.
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Case halves together and case thru bolts torqued. Spins nice.
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Cam installed.
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Good clearance around the oil pump.
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Other case half prepped.
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A short block is born!!
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Measuring deck height. This took me a long time, mostly due to refining my technique to get repeatable results. I also used a straight edge and feeler gauges as a back up.
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That is some great looking work you have done there! I am jealous.

Have you ever thought about producing and selling that carb linkage setup?

It looks much better than a cross bar setup.

That looks great, are you putting rebuilt heads on there or did you spring for the new ones? this may be your first T4 but i cant believe you havent done this before... where are all the empty beer bottles, and spilled oil ??

Heads were just rebuilt by Len Hoffman. All new hardware. I did about six months of research before I turned a wrench. I've usually rewarded myself with a beverage or two after a session of working on the motor.

Wow, impressive and inspiring to say the least. Fess up. You've built other engines, just not a Type IV before, right?!

Looks like you are doing the build the right way, lots of research and info before turning wrenches, good job. Hope all turns out well.
Tom

Beautiful work. What incresae in HP do you think it'll run?

Also run a new thread on your accel cable setup. Where did you get it/parts, etc. And close up pics. Thanks.

I like that throttle cable setup. Nice work. Let us know how that works when it's up and running eh?

Lookin' great!!

is this one of Jake's Kits?

good looking work!

I received a package this week from Len Hoffman. These are 2.0 heads he rebuilt for me with all new hardware. Beautiful work, IMHO.

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I also got the rings installed and the pistons installed into the cylinders.

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To answers a couple of questions above. This is not a Raby kit. I did a cam consult with Jake back in January and bought one of his valvetrain kits, as well as most of the other parts. Jake also did the balancing work on the rotating parts. As the title states, this is my first engine build (of any kind).

So next comes installing the piston and cylinder into the rod. I thought the triple wound spiral retainers would be a pain to install here, but I've come to learn that every process has a technique. The first time I tried to install one, I couldn't. I didn't think there was any way to get them in without damaging the piston, so I put everything down and came back to it the next day. And the next day, it was easy.

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Then the head. I used a little Curil T under the washers for the 4 lower headstuds. One side is done!

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Good going. Tape up those lifter holes too. I did not, and dropped a washer down the sump when putting my tins back under the cylinders. Had to yank it all apart...

Fired mine for the first time about a month ago. Grinned like an idiot all through celebratory pints down at the pub!

Just a few questions:

- Did you use assembly lube on the internal parts before the cases were put together?

- Did you put sealant at the base of the cylinders?

- Did you make sure to position the piston rings at 33* intervals with the oil ring spaces not at the bottom?

- Did you check the registers on the case to make sure they were not collapsed?


Just a couple of gotchas that came to mind. You seem on the ball, though

I'm using Brad Penn 30wt break-in oil on the internal parts and cam lube for the lobes and lifter faces. I used Curil T at the base of the cylinders. Rings positioned per the instructions from Hastings. Registers are not collapsed.

I'm adjusting the width of the solid rocker spacer on the valvetrain now.

Excellent. Why Curil T? It is the non-hardening (curing) type of sealant, correct? You are using this outside? I would recommend going with a high temp silly cone on the outside of the cylinder bases.

Here's a quick update on my engine build.

Here's a link to my valvetrain geometry fun.


I cut my pushrods with a hacksaw. I know this sounds like swatting a fly with an Uzi, but I cut them all about .100 over and then used a benchtop sander to get them to the final length.

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Here is the valvetrain installed. Each of the aluminum rockershaft spacers had to be taken down a little in order to achieve the right amount of side play. I tried to shoot for about .004 here. Just another thing that adds to the amount of hours it's taking to build this engine.

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Completed long block!!

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Now I just had to recruit my wife and 17 year old son to help me get it off the engine stand, out of my cellar and into the garage. Installed the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. I had these parts balanced by Jake Raby. Even the individual bolts were balanced so they were indexed to the pressure plate. Might as well install the 901 while I've got the teenager around.

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More pictures:

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Here's a view of my homemade linkage.

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Wiring in place. Almost forgot to add oil. Yikes!

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Fancy gauge setup.

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I think all I have left to do is to run the fuel lines. Maybe tomorrow I'll turn it over and try to build some oil pressure.

Outstanding. this thread just went into my favorites!

IT RUNS!!!

OK, I did make a pretty novice mistake by putting the spacers in between the oil cooler and the case. When I tried to get the oil pressure up, nothing. After about 30 seconds I looked under the engine and saw a pool of green oil. Not good. So off comes the fan shroud. Not so much fun with all the engine tin on. Add some more oil to make up for what puked out.

So back at it. Turns over but nothing on the gauge. Hmmm, maybe my lead is on the wrong terminal at the oil pressure sender. Yup. I get the oil pressure up to 30 psi. Ok, plugs go back in.

Now I haven't had a car with carbs since the 80's so I'm not exactly sure how best to get it to run. Turn it over and nothing. Check for spark. Good. Try again. Nothing. Again. Almost sounds like it wants to start, but nothing.

So I try some starting fluid, like the can says. I disconnected power to the fuel pump and gave a little shot down each throat. Give it a try. Almost. A little more. It catches. Ok, fuel pump back on. Now give it a shot. Yes! It's running. Quickly I get it to run at about 2200 rpms and set my stop watch. Sometimes 20 minutes is a long time.

Tomorrow, I will adjust the carbs. I will definitely have it back in my car this weekend. Thanks for everyone's help so far.

Yes, the 20 minute cam break in seems like it goes on forever.
And ever.

Did you take video?
Oil leaks?

Zach

No oil leaks, so far. I did take video, but of course I can't find my DV cable. I will upload it at some point.

cool

When you built this motor, did you do the galley plug mod (replace the press fit plugs with threaded plugs)?

Zach

Great thread. It looks like the rebuild was lots of fun!

Yes, I did the 5 big ones.

I looked at the engine this morning and noticed a small amount of oil had leaked around where the extension hose for the oil pressure sender mounts on the case. I'm kinda scared to tighten this too much for fear of cracking the case. This ever happen to anyone? I assume I just need to tighten it a little more. I didn't use anything on the threads.

Great accomplishment! Use some loctite 565 on the threads of the OP sender hose and the leak should go away.

Ohhh. this tip will help me with my engine too, as mine leaks there just a little.

Zach

Nice job. Great thread. Novice? I don't think so. With the tools and procedures you used, you look pretty experienced to me.

Hey, you have a test stand similar to mine! Did the break in, rough timing and carb tuning, double checked the valves, then got it back in the car a few weeks ago. Not driving yet, cause tank is out so i could drop the fresh air box to get paper behind the cowl vents. Did not want a crappy over sprayed airbox. Soon....soon.

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Bumped to 2056, 464 webcam, had Jay's precision balance everything and go through the heads. Too bad the WCR is not a month later, i think i will be painted and on the road then.

Here's a video of the first startup. I tried to embed it but it didn't work.

Sweet!

amazing thread!
have fun!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DB6jloe4ko


There you go.

You'll likely have it in before mine... come visit when your car's running!

Thanks Van. I've got the motor in. I just figured out my stupid mistake regarding the carbs here.

Btw, how did you embed the video? I cut and pasted the embed code from Youtube but the code shows up in the post, not the video.

This forum has a special bb code for youtube:
[ youtube ] video code after the equals sign [ /youtube ] (no spaces)

I didn't know that's what hemostats were for!

This worked. No leaks so far. Thanks Jake.

That is awesome!

Bet it feel good after all the work.

John

Nice work!

looks to be used for clamping the accelerator cable

Quick update: I've got about 150 miles on the new engine. I did an oil change and valve adjustment at about 12o miles. Two of the valves were loose by about .001-.002, the rest were fine. Because I used steel pushrods, I'm setting the valves to zero lash, which means no checking the lash with a feeler gauge. I set the valves so that I can spin the swivel foot with no rocking of the rocker arm.

I also installed the heater components, checked the CV bolts and the HE nuts. Then I went for a good cruise. I noticed that with the heater components installed, my CHTs were lower by about 50 degrees. I wonder if the air passing though the heat exchangers draws heat out of the heads.

Carbs seem good except for a small stumble below 3000 rpms. On the advice of other forum members, I'm going to try larger idle jets.

oh, btw, the engine rocks!

nice job! loved following the thread.

Jim

Sweet!

What were your head temps before you put back on the heater stuff?

My guess is that the heater attachments adds a little back pressure to your cooling air, instead of it just venting out when nothing is hooked up.

Zach