As many of you know, I have a tank problem, from fibe years (almost) gas sitting in the tank. I bought a good tank, with a bad finish. I'm documenting the rstor of it here.

Phase One - the easy part. I used the evap tank to rehone my finishing skills. It was presentable to most, but not to me. Stripped to bare metal, primed, wet sanded & 3 final coats of black satin. Three days later - wet sanded with 800 grit, Turtle Wax rubbing compound, and Meguiars Show car Glaze. Too shiney, but blame it on intense wet sanding!
Pics show it all.
Pat

Phase Two - Fuel collar. Not too bad after some high grit sanding. We'll see how tha finish coat sticks. Stay tuned, because the tank comes next!
For those who think I'm sitting on my ass, pontificating - think again!
Pat

Pat - what was the red primer you used (name/brand) & where do you get it?

Keep up the posts as the project progresses plz!

Pat looks real nice. I used the Mequires too. Definetly makes the paint very glossy, but looks real good.

Tom,

It's Krylon. Yeah, I know that many people thru the years have poo-poo'd it as "non-professional". Fact is this - I've used Krylon products successfully for years. It's all in the preparation, and the tasks between coats.

When I first started on this evaporator, I though about just simply taking it down to bare metal with finer & finer grits. I have a Craftsman triple head sander that I use because it moves around corners nicely. But first I used a product called Citrus Strip - you can get it at any FLAPS & comes in brush-on or spray version. I've used the spray version a bunch of times & prefer it because it doesn't leave a mess behind. Spray it on, wait 12-24 hours & the paint amost slides off usually. In this case it didn't get everything, so I brought the sander into play. As you can see, that was the end of the rest of the paint, though I did take the metal down to 800 grit.

Next, I wiped everything down with laquer thinner. Opened all doors & ran like hell,even though I wore protection. Didn't smoke my pipe that afternoon!

Next came the Rustoleum Rust Tough. It's formulated so that it checks rust, so long as you've scraped any chunks of rust off. I didn't want o take a chance with that, which is why I sanded. Two coats, let dry for 36-48 hrs. Wet sand & let dry. Smooth as a babies bottom & ready to topcoat. Recommend this product.
Pat

Yeah, quite frankly it's too glossy, but I'll accept it. Can't wait to apply the L43 that you sent on the tank ! That will be glossy too, because I love wet sanding & rubbing compound. But then, the tank should be glossy.

Keep watching - the fuel collar get started tomorrow afternnon. After that - the big boy (tank).
Pat

Thanx for the step-by-step Pat!

I'll have to see whether I need a full repaint or touch up whenever I get to that point, but I need to swap evap tanks since some past shock insert work dinged the edge/sea. fortunately I have another one in good shape in my donor shell.

So, the collar is now done. Came ou pretty nice - same method as evap tank.

Next will be the tank & it will be the most difficult since it is BIG.

Note that the gas filler/collar has a brass tube, which lead to the evaporator. Never noted that be fore & wonder why they used bras for this simple part? BTW, I left the backside of the collar as delivered from the Factory. Thankfully, the PO left it alone.

Still tryinf several jigs for the main tank - not happy with any of them.

Looks real good Pat!

Although I'm glad to see you advertising for a better gas cap than that paper wadding buddy!

Watching with great interest... redoing all the fueling will be my first step when I finally have time to play with the car. My tank is pretty bad off, but I should have another one on my doorstep in a few days.

A jig to paint the tank Pat? I layed mine on a large box upside down first. Put a coat on the bottom and sides and let it dry. Then you can lay it the sides to do the top and sides again. You can almost set it up right while it's on its side. You'll be alble to get a very nice coat on all the visable portions no problem like that. Once the bottom is painted, you could also set the stamp seam (lip on bottom) between 2 pieces of lumber to keep it upright. Turning out very nice btw.

Tod,
I know the method I'll use for painting. Just trying to make a jig for easier sanding. I know what you're saying about painting (I'll suspend mine from the ceiling for that). Just trying to make a multi-use jig for sanding.
Can't help being me - I want to be able to yank this sucker out & show it to a judge - "how's that for proper finish?'

We start tomorrow! Pic's forthcoming.
Pat

ps - thanks for the goo buddy. Test sprayed today - it's dead nuts right on. I owe you!

What! Works in hillbillyland!

Just make certain that you prep the inside first. Some are really bad (my original included) and some are RTP (ready to paint). Mine was in-between. Used metal Ready & it is ......ready. Stuff works if the only have light corrosion. Listen to the guys who've done it before. DIOAF - do it once & forget it!
Pat

Careful now - I resemble that remark!
... my Maternal side comes a bit southeast of you in Hill Billy Land, around Berkeley Springs & Paw Paw WVa!

Pat your more meticulous than I thought! Now you really have my respect hehe. Glad the paint worked out for you.

Well, I started sanding the tank today. Initially, I was trying 400 grit and it did well at smoothing some areas. Other areas had been heavily sprayed by he PO, resulting in heavy orange-peel, and 400 wouldn't do the job (just kept loading up with paint). So I switched to my 3 head rotary & 150 grit. Worked well at removing the heavy stuff, but quickly cut through everything, to bare metal in some areas, before I abandoned it for the day.

I have two questions for any experts out there:

1. Is it really necessary for me to take the entire tank to bare metal? I'll do it, but just wonder....there is a very good basic finish under the black topcoat.

2. I'll be straying from my usual paint choices. Will be using L43 Gray-Black paint, provided by Tod914, so I'll need a good automotive primer. Suggestions?

This is what I'm starting with......

Pat, the problem you need to assess is whether the underlying paint to steel is well bonded or not, so that you won't have flaking later on. This is especially critical on the inside, since the flakes could clog up the sock, fuels lines, etc.

If it is a good base coat, then just sand, prep & repaint where needed & do the full top coat to the proper Tod914 color!

Pat - I second the L43. I recently repainted an original four-spoke steering wheel with the L43 I purchased from Wolfsurg West. I'm also going to be refinishing a fuel tank soon. Last night I compared the relatively untouched underside of the expansion tank to my newly re-painted steering wheel, and the L43 was pretty much dead-on.

Guys - I just want to clarify something here! My original tank, evaporator and fuel collar still sit under the front boot. They are ORIGINAL to this 914. Just wanted to get that straight.

Now, the original fuel collar and expansion tank (complete with decal) are satin black. The tank is original and gray-black. This is what I'm trying to reproduce - the tank! The other parts will be available for sale soon, and they are sweet!

914 gas tanks came in two verifiable shades (a third is unverified) - satin black, and gray/satin black. My 72 was a transition car. It came with gray/satin black tank. Pics available.

If I continue to take my time, and dodge the high humidtity, my replacement tank should equal my original (sans interior rust). Watch for updates.

No need to go to bare metal unless there is rust showing. As for how far to go ? Just take it to the original paint, you'll know if it is or not as soon as a spot breaks through. Jusat get a decent coat of sealer/primer before topcoating. This will prevent any reactions between the new and old, and will also help to fill the sanding scratches.

Click to view attachmentUpdate(and I know most of you think I'm freakish about this).
The back half is ready to prime. I've sanded with about every grade there is, sometimes having to go to bare metal. All PO runs are gone, as we;; as some minor spots of exterior corrosion. The dehumidifier has the level down to the low 50's.

Just to be different, I've rubbed everything down with 96% Isoprop, not Prepsolv. The latter lingers so long that I'm afraid of a spark. Finish is ready to spray.

Will try to do it in the AM, but am against time restraints. May have to wipe it down again & spray Friday.

This is what the backside looks like now.
Pat

Hey Pat,

I knew I should have put up info on my tank redo last month, but you are way out in front on this. Here is one really direct secret I wish I had thought of in advance when it comes to the threads on the neck and the sensor.

But first:

I used POR 15 products totally on the inside.

Marine Clean - followed directions

Metal Ready - Pretty amazing stuff

POR15 - REALLY AMAZING STUFF!

But, the one thing I regretted was NOT putting all 13 bolts back in before ANY WORK ON THE TANK!

Took me a week to get the parts to chase out the threads and get the tank back together in the car.

BUY NEW ZINC PLATED BOLTS AND WASHERS AND USE THE OLD ONES THREADED INTO THE TANK THREADS.

If you have a better method than this simple one, use it, but believe me, you won't like it when you can't get the bolts started due to RUST AND PAINT that fill up the threads while you are working so hard.

Maybe I am wrong, but it is what I experienced.

Best of luck!

John
avidfanjpl

John,
Good thoughts & great stuff for others who undertake this humbling task!

I DID replace all old fasteners before using Metal Ready. Chose not to use POR15, for personal reasons.

Couldn't start priming today because of heavy rain & dead de-humidifier.

Plan on using all new fasteners, sock & seals from AA after all paintwork is finished.

Wish me luck! These things are serious to me.
Pat

John, I like some of the POR products too. After I strip the part to metal, I'll use their Marine clean then Metal ready prior to paint. A little zinc coating for some added insurance. Bust'n a move on that tank Pat. Can't wait to see it finished.

Hey Pat and Tod,

You guys are WAY ahead on things than me. I am just one of those that brainfart more wrong than right on this car. Then I get rescued by someone smart that takes folding money.

And to see Lincoln Park as a home reminds me of days messing with 914's in Lake Mohawk with Steve Gaglione.

Yes, he routinely ruined my day by showing up with the cleanest car in the world.

And yes, my old friend and I are reunited again over 914's!

And he calls his passion for teeners a disease.

Last night he had me wetting my old drawers hearing him talk.

Those cars you work on are like him.

I have only half the disease. I still like oily stuff.

Tom T calls it Halfheimers. I remember only half the stuff I once knew.

J

Cool deal John. When did you move out of NJ?

Tod, like the Metal Ready. Too hot & humid to even prime this weekend. Not going to mess the finish up by being too hurried. Maybe Monday. Damn!
Pat

PS: I just realized this afternoon that everything I shot was NOT a Rustoleum product. Was, in fact, Krylon. Shame on me!
Pat

Whoops! Forgot that I changed medium. Not Rustoleun - Krylon!
Pat

Scotty,

On th the front half, I went anal. There were a couple of really minor zits tha I almost grounf through. I started with 60 grit, moved up to 120, the 600, then 1400 - before I put on fresh primer. Figure I wasted at least 6 hours labor. Primed it & moved on.

Rear side I got more realistic. Wet sanded the old finish with 120 grit. Will do a followup with 600, but don't really think it's neceassy before priming.

Once primed, I'll wet sand with 2000 & start putting on the topcoat. Plan on three, each 2000'd when stable. The, will use light rbbing compound, followed by wax.
Pat

You do realize that the gas tanks were never finished well right ? Almost all I have pulled looked like they had been spray bombed by a retarded sea lion and were covered in runs. What you are doing is in no way original at all

Scotty, I think Pat was going to add the factory runs in by hand.

Scotty,
All tanks were not created equally. Yep, some were a bit "knarly". My original tank, as pics will show when it's removed, had a perfect finich - right down to the nipples! I've had this tank out twice. Once, when the car was resprayed (1979), and the when I out the swaybar in (1980). Both times I did nothing but polish. There were NO runs, no drips - just a clean finish. I've seen the bad ones. I've seen the not-so bad ones. And, I've seen terrible origonal finishes.

Mine was good from the start. I'm re-creating that finish.

When I am finished, I'll show side-by-side pics of my original & the refurbished tank. Maybe then you'll be a believer!

Btw - almost zero progress this week. Somesanding & priming, but I threw my back out at work (hurts like a sumbitch). Getting older sucks.

More progress (hopefully) in the coming week. Gotta get this done!
Pat

I should have known your nipples were perfect Pat

You leave my nipples alone!
P

OK, now I need some help!

I primed the tank with a zinc-based primer. Seemed like the right thing to do. Prior to priming, everything was wet sanded with 320 grit. Nice "baby's butt" finish. Yhen I primed (after wiping down with 96% Isoprop).

But.....now I have this "nubby" finish that needs to be way cut before final coats. Tried wet sanding with 600 - little effect. Don't want to cut through the primer. Any thoughts on steel wool? Just want to take the nubs off, without cutting through 2 coats of primer.
I know that most of think I'm whacko, but I want my 914 preservedexactly as I got it in 1972.
Pat

That's too funny Scotty. Do you think Pat waxes his nipples too?

Pat, steel wool may leave scratches in the primer. I would keep at the wetsanding, wetsanding with 600 seems to be the right grit for a final primer sanding before paint.

Pat, if it was smooth before paint, then you either got some grit on the surface (dust, lint, steel wool "hairs", etc.), or else the spray droplets dried before hitting the surface & creating the rough surface. Either way you'll need to re-smooth it with stepped grits (320, 400, 600), then shoot it again.

Then when you reshoot it, take it in several light coats (I tend to be "the king of runs" & have to watch myself - you may be the opposite erring too far & getting dry paint "dust" by the time it reaches the surface) & be careful with your spray distance to surface, technique, etc. - as the way it lays down can vary with temp., humidity, distance (too far creates a paint dust), how much the rattle can nozzle is putting out & how fine/dense the mist is, how well mixed the paint it, if it's old (sitting in a warehouse or your garage), and other factors.

It might help to have a test surface handy each time to try out what works best at particular times of day/night that you shoot coats. The dehumidifier can have localized effects too, if you're close to it, causing the paint mist to dry too much before it reaches the surface.

To late. You've already overdone it. And yes you're a whacko.....

I represent that comment!
If you weren't a friend, I'd take offense. Hell, I take offense anyway!
E-mail me - want to lnow how you are.
Pat

Tom,
Figure it out. It was the zinc-based primer. Mini particles of zinc mixed into the primer. Wasn't "nubbs", but the mini particles of zinc standing on end. Tried ti take them down with 600 grit, but they were just bending.. Went back to 400 & it worked fine, though cut through in a couple of spots. Re-primed & will take them down with 1200, as well as the rest of the tank.

Then comes the L43. The gift can from Tod won't be nearly enough - I want 2 coats, 1500 grit wet sand & a final coat, so I'll need more L43.

Hint to others - if you use Krylon zinc based primer expect extra work. Is it worth it - dunno. We'll see.

Am I making this a lifetime event? You tell me when it's complete. Yes, I am anal!
Pat

Pat, the Wurth zinc rich primer seems to be smoother & work better.

Here's where I told Tod about the L43 -
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new...stuff/paint.cfm

Ok, here's where I am today.

The zinc-rich primer problem was settled with 1200 grit wet sanding. Unfortunately, I didn't learn this lesson until 600 grit had sanded through the primer in several areas. Re-sprayed those spots & we're good to topcoat.

You'll notice that I've found my "jig", that being a styrofoam container from Omaha Steaks.

Now, my final concern! Tod914 "donated" a can of L43, for which I'm very thankful. But I realized quickly that one can of this stuff will not provide an adequate topcoat for final finishing. So.....I need more.

That being said, I know that there is a vintage bug company within 20 miles of me. I should be able to get some there. Found them about 4 years ago, but can't remember the name. Had a great website & are located somewhere in SE PA. Anyone know of them & the site?
P

Think your looking for BusDepot.com. WolfsburgWest is where I picked it up L43. If you already layed down a coat, I'd probally stick with the same paint. It was a custom mix by them. I don't think the shipping was too bad. Maybe $13 for 3 cans of paint.

Pat - if it was Bus Depot in PA close to you, here's their website -
http://www.busdepot.com/

... but I don't recall seeing any paints on their website & it doesn't come up in a search on the above link.

Thanks Tom - that's the site!
Pat

Well, I now have 3 coats of L43 on the front half of the tank. Laid down nicely.

Problem is - it isn't gray enough! Don't know what the code would be, but I suspect L43 with twice as much gray to match my original tank.

Very disappointed!

Priority will be to finish this nice tank for a future owner. Also, since I have no choice, I'll take my original tank to a local shop for interior cleaning & pay extra for them to preserve the exterior finish.

Disappointed!
Pat

Pat, too bad!

Can you plz post pix of your original & this one with L43 side-by-side (2 pix) so we can all see what you're talking about?

I have my 73 tank & another out of a 71 which both look to be the same satin black color, so I'm confused on what's "not grey enough" on your L43 repaint job?

Also, if the black is laid in too glossy &/or sanded too smooth, then the black will look blacker because the minute roughness of the flat & satin finishes refract more light making them appear grayer to the eye.

Wow not grey enough? I'm very surprized to hear that. I was going to use it for my brake handle but it was too grey for that. Maybe it will be closer once you polish and wax it. I had the same problem with my Wurth satin trim paint. Once it was polished and waxed, it matched. They have another color called anthracite which is an off grey-brown-black. No idea if that would be any better or not. I suspect not.

Hi!

Why are you not using powdercoating ?
In that colour it should not cost more than 10 Euro.( 12 dollar )
I painted mine in semigloss black looks great.
Just sandblasted it before and when it was painted
I used tanksealer looks great.

Niklas