Kevin and I started the tuneup for RRC about three weeks ago. Yesterday we learned more about the hodgepodge that is my car. I ordered a clutch kit and Pertronix ignitor for a '76 911. The flywheel delivery was more than two weeks out, so I decided to wait on it else the car likely wouldn't make RRC 2013.

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It turns out that my old flywheel is not from a '76 911. I'm not sure of the vintage, but it is slightly smaller. I can't find anything about this part #, 901 102 205 0R. I'm guessing it's from a pre '72 911 or from a 914-6. Any ideas.

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Since I couldn't get a new flywheel in time, we will reuse the old flywheel and clutch and save the upgrade for sometime in the future.

The other issue is with the distributor. Turns out it is from a '72 or '73 911 (0231 169 010). Have to get a different Pertronix ignitor.

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Now I'm questioning whether my engine is a '76. Is this number from the left head the engine number (901 105 111 1R)?

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Thanks for your support.

Pieper

your distributor is a 1973 model

any suggestion on making a better feeler gauge for a 2.7 ?

Long reach, narrower, and at a 90 degree angle.

bend one.

they sell little ones with a handle and a 45degree bent tip

but you can take a standard feeler guage and just 45degree bent the last 3/4 of an inch on it.

Do you mean RRC 2012 in 2 weeks? If you mean 2013 you have plenty of time

all of the 914 trannys need the 64-69 flywheel (6 bolt)

I think renegade makes some conversion ones
and if you had a 916 tranny you might have a 70's flywheel

take one more picture of the one you have.
back up and get the whole thing

but odds are its the early 2.0/6 flywheel
and if so any 4 or 6 914 clutch should work.
you can probably get a disc at the local auto parts store
just buy a 914 clutch kit (the 6 cylinder ones are probably all that is sold now, they have more springs for less stutter as you start out in 1st gear)

This one works well...I bend it to a 90..

There is alot of meat on 901 flywheels ,, As long as the grind the friction surface and the clutch mounting surface.
dont forget a washesr undr the pivot stud if you have it resurfaced.

Like Brant said lets see a pic of it.y

I had a starter take out the flywheel on my 2.7. I'll try and find the paper work as to what it was replaced with. Problem is, it may take a while to find the paperwork because I moved from IL to TX and things are in boxes.

This.

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from the pics, that is the correct flywheel from an early 911/914-6. Did you get new bolts?

I have a huge binder of info (all printed from either this site or Pelican) from doing my conversion. Would you like to borrow it? I can pick it up on Thursday and drop it off on friday. Let me know.

Ooooh! I like this!

really like the curve part for the fingers.
that way the wrist does all the twisting while ya trying to slip the feeler gauge, under the swivel foot!

we've narrow down the motor to be a '73
what's the "proper" spec. feeler gauge depth to use?
or what ya recommend?
we also know the motor "built" for Auto-x'ng

I'm seeing from .003.75 to almost .006 mm



Thanks for the info all you folks has to share, deadline is looming too close!

a 1973 would be a 2.4

what is the engine type number on the upright near the fan?

Valve lash is 0.004" on all, cold

That is the correct 6 bolt flywheel to mate with the 914 transmission (the one with the 901 part number).

The stock six is a 215 mm clutch. The other disc is for a 915 setup which is a 225 mm clutch and the hub is larger diameter / coarser spline.

If you wanted a 225 mm clutch you either get a hold of a '70 - '71 911 transmission and have it converted for 914 use (911/901 tranny). The clutch kit for that setup retails at $800 as it is a "pull" type clutch rather than the "push" type used on the 914.

or

You have a custom clutch cover made to use with the '76 flywheel and you still have to use the friction disk from the '70 - '71 911.

great info Ron! I'm gonna let Henna give you lot's of kisses from me

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Huge headaches to track down with, 'What ya got!?"

FuchifIknow!

we've really haven't remove the shrouding to determine that.
Case #.
So much time taken up on what hell we got here! "You Know!?"

you can see the number without pulling the shroud
its kinda hard to find at first but then very obvious once you find it

you really want the type number
not the serial number, not the case part number.

The serial number will be stamped vertically on the fan housing support. Look for a number between two stars .... ie 6?? ????

Behind it, on a ledge of the case, there will be another series of numbers, sometimes not easily seen. They will read 901/?? or 911/??. Like a 911/85 is a 1977 2.7L S motor.

Nice Billy Boat SS Heat Exchangers and Carrera Tensioners too!

I can take an image later of where to look.

Thanks Ron!
Like Brant says, easy to read,
I feel stupid.

anyhow, # are,

911 82

with old flywheel from '69-7?

Dist. a '73

Cool, so it is a 2.7
they may have recammed if it has an earlier distributor
hard to tell exactly what pistons/cams

the flywheel should be 64-69
just buy a standard 914 clutch or 914/6 clutch
brant

Thanks Brant!

Pieper sure going to like that info,save $$$$

here's the old set-up,

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do you still have the old parts
did you guys put hydraulic tensioners in?

any desire to sell the solid tensioners?

brant

What is making the flywheel BAD ?

teeth ? wear on clutch surface ?

Since it is CIS, the cams permissible are very limited. I believe the upgrade is the 964 cam profile which will net about 10 hp gain. Other gains can be had by raising the compression ratio. CIS limits the gains, but retains the fuel mileage.

The mechanical tensioners would have been ideal to leave in. I don't care what others say, I have them in mine. The stock or "upgrade" Carrera tensioners can fail with catastrophic results. Adjusting mechanicals every 10K is not a big deal.

Oh, the distributor you have was used on the 09/1971 - 08/1973 2.3L 911S engine (911/53 & 911/63)

I have a rebuilt 0 231 169 008 (09/73 - 06/77) 911/911S 2.7L but it is missing the cap clips (yours would work) in case you get crazy and want to change it.

Oh well, that's my opinion anyway!

The flywheel is really old. Witness the difficulty reading the part number. Also there was a onetime event that scored the starter ring. I was thinking of replacing it with an aluminum one.

The clutch plate has less than 20K. For now, all of the parts will go back on the car.

Pieper

Thanks everyone for helping identify what I have and need.

You too Kevin!

Pieper

The ring gear can be machined off and a replacement welded on. I've had it done by a machine shop myself.

Just because the part number is obscure doesn't mean it bads

Dont buy an aluminum one ,About 2-3 lbs can be removed easily and makes a difference.
as long as all the teeth are solid, a bit of the corner knock off them is common.
If you really want to spend the money ??

Are these the correct flywheel bolts?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...%37%32%29%20%20

Pieper

hmmm...
that says 914/6

I've bought the early 911 ones before with a different part number

I don't understand why the real 914/6 ones would interchange with late 2.7 cars...

is it a typo?
now I'm not sure.....

brant

Bolts needed

If they haven't shipped, change the order

ok! The Flywheel
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The worst part of the gears
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And the New Flywheel bolts

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was there a 6 hole washer under the flywheel bolt heads and the flywheel ?

yup

I tried to find it, and send you a pic.
but it seems AWOL at the moment.

anybody(in town) has the correct flywheel bolts?

Or know where I can get them, today?

Try these:

Storz Garage: 3-333-1911
Eisenbuds: 3-825-0322
3R: 3-781-0774
Stevinson:3-794-3550

or (even though they SUCK)
Prestige: 3-238-8101

Yup

If you had looked on ClubNARP, I gave you the link to the correct bolts on Pelican. I am sure they would have swapped for the correct ones. Call Glenn @ extension 240 and I am sure he will get it corrected for you. You'll just need to ship the Clay Perrine bolts back.

The shorter bolts are for the '70 & up 225 mm FLAT flywheel with bolt on starter ring.

The longer are for the '65 - '69 215 mm flywheel that also uses the spacer between the bolts and the flywheel.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE SPACER

Thanks. Your Narp post is what made me concerned and start asking. We received the wrong bolts three weeks ago.

If, if, if...

Priority Mail, small flat rate box will take about 2 days to get to you. If you need a LOAN of the spacer, let me know.

And for the purpose of RRC, you can reuse the used flywheel bolts. I've been doing that for about 10K miles on my engine. They can be changed later if you are nervous and don't get stupid trying to be a drag racer.

Newbie here!

Did you know the flywheel bolt spacer can fit in front of the pressure plate?
when the other "newbie" (Pieper) was checking out the flywheel and dumped the bolts and washer, I didn't pay attention but he put the spacer in the front recess part of the pressure plate, fits perfectly and looks like it belong there.

I barley notice the sheen of the spacer was a little different than the rest of the flywheel.

well I'm having problem sending pictures again.

gotta take my meds

Hi Kev -
Your post is confusing to me. The flywheel bolts go through the spacer, then through the flywheel and into the hub. See pic....

the "Front" of the flywheel has a recess spot that fits over the crank shaft,
just enough recess, machined out, that the spacer fits in perfectly.
wish I could send pics.

give me a min..

pic.

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If somebody else puts it there, I've no clue where is it? LOL

A hard lesson (I cleaned the Fuchin' garage!!) learned.

Figured to share my "Time" spent looking for the thing with everyone

It's all good

usually on the -6 the pilot bearing goes in from the back of the flywheel.

at least mine were that way and I assumed it was the correct way

it looks like your pilot may be on the other side.

There is a recess for the lip on the bearing....

(see the diagram I posted above)

Brant, you are correct.

I'm simply showing, the recess section in front of the flywheel,
can accepted the dang spacer from the back
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