Too late. I'm already here. Well, Laughlin so far. See you all tomorrow.

?????

I finally took the fenders and hoods back the body shop that was helping me out. After I block sanded everything, they shot it with about the same results. I don't know what the problem is. Something about what I might have cleaned the surface with. They weren't too busy when I brought it to them last week. Now they are very busy so my project gets sent to the back burner. They drilled out all the Dzus fasteners, they were getting bunged up with paint. They block sanded everything again and primered it and will shoot it next week. I hope. At least now it's in the hands of the proffesionals.

What did you clean it with?

Seriously...

You save a lot of time and money if you practice on a scrap fender first. Also, did you add reducer?

Why not? You seem pretty eager to jump on the asshole bandwagon.

Youre new here, aren't you.....

Instead of just throwing out ratios for paint to catalyst to reducer, what you should really be thinking about is running that paint through a viscosity cup. You time how long it takes for the paint to flow through the cup. If it takes to long the paint is too thick. If it takes too short a time to get through the cup the paint is too thin. Here in the US a popular cup is the Zahn 2. Spraying with a conventional gun, a time of 18-22 seconds should be about the right viscosity, but that depends on your gun settings too. Most conventional guns can be adjusted to give a good smooth finish with that viscosity.

But if the supplier sells you the paint, the catalyst and reducer for the temperature range you will be shooting in, and hands you the computer printout of % of each to mix- then why do you have to check for viscosity? Mix and spray? Spray on a big carboard box and adjust your settings. Am I missing something here?

Nope you're not missing anything. But who knows what equipment or viscosity they based those ratios on. There are really only about four factors that affect how the paint will lay out. The paint (type and viscosity), the equipment (gun settings, air pressures, cleanliness of air), the environment (ambient temperature) and the painter. A possible fifth is prep of the piece.

When the guys at the shop sprayed your part, did they use your gun or theirs? Did they use your gun settings or theirs? You can start eliminating factors from my list by knowing what they did and didn't do. For instance if their technique was much different from yours, but all other factors were the se and the paint came out looking bad, you could probably rule the painter part out. I'm making a big assumption that they had good technique and knew what they were doing. Anyhow, you get the idea.

I hope you get it worked out!!

Humidity, relative atmospheric pressure, field conditions, Elliot, etc...

That last one pretty much nails it.

In science they call it 'the rate limiting factor.' In this case - Elyut

NEWBS

And anonymous ones at that

Just about everyone on this web site is anonymous. Everyone hides begind a screen name. One of my pet peaves of the internet and internet forums.

I hate to say this but that kind of attitude is prevalent in most forums I have visited. This forum is an oasis in and of itself. And for the most part people here conduct themselves as fun loving aficionados wanting to keep their cars running while helping others do the same. I like that. It helps keep my blood pressure down. Being from the poor south, as smart assed remark is an invitation to see my wedding band; up close!
Anyway back to the paint job. Couldn't help but notice your comment about prep. How did you prep before prime and/or paint. Can't believe a paint shop would stumble here, though.

Try asking a newbie question on NASIOC...wow... very low tolerance over there.

A two month old newb with a total of 11 posts calling someone here an asshole is clearly not with the program. I would suggest learning the game and knowing the players before posting irrational assessments. Otherwise, you won't get invited to ride on any 'band wagons', and will end up riding a lone donkey down the trail.


Now, back to our regularly scheduled programming.


Black cars suck ...









... all the heat from the sun.

Paining black cars sucks but I managed to paint mine in my garage...first time ever.

Good articles at carcraft.com and watch Overhaulin videos when they spray the cars.

I found out that I was holding the gun too far from the surface and moving too slow.

First coat was dusted then second third coats were held closer and slower.

Then lots of color sanding USING A FLEXIBLE BLOCK...this is essential for a flat look...both before and after prime and paint. Your fingers will call the Arthritis gods.

If anyone saw my car at G&R please comment. I painted it with $100 of Sherman Williams paint and materials and a $30 gun off ebay. One stage

Be patient. It's easy to rush when you're in a respirator and overspray is everywhere.

Dusty here but you can see it's possible.

Click to view attachment

Maybe I didn't explain this as clearly as I could have. The only thing the paint shop did was offer advice. They helped me with prep techniques, help set up my gun and steer me to a paint supply store. I prepped the fiberglass by scrubbing it with Dawn dish soap, hot water and a scrubbing pad to remove the releasing agent. I sanded with 500 grit and then painted 3 coats of primer. The final finish paint is where things went wrong. The first time I didn't have the trigger on the gun adjusted to open all the way and the paint went on very dry. After block sanding everything, I shot it again with the result of bad orange peal. What it boils down to is, I am an amateur painter who is learning very fast. The next time I paint something I am confident it will go much smoother. And I will definately try this again sometime. Thanks to everyone for all the advice and encouragement.
Cheers, Elliot

The paint shop didn't stumble. Apparently I did. Now they have a shot at it. I'm guessing they will have better results.

Paint should go on to a smooth finish...I sanded with 1200 then shot with paint...then finish sanded to 3000 grit; then machine polished 2 stages.

I think if you prep again up to 1200 or 1500 and a block then shoot. You will be better off.

This isn't totally true Ell-Yut. I make fun of you in person every chance I get.

did you say that the paint shop did it with the same results and now they are talking about what you prepped with?

I think its the paint that needs to be questioned, not the people and process.

rich

I think you just need to have a steak Elliot That will fix everything

those rear flares look wider than 'stock' GT flares ........ did you widen them ?


EDIT: oops, just noticed they are fiberglass, still ... are they wider?

I had the same orange peel results when I painted my 914 after the accident. No matter what setting on the gun and paint:hardener:reducer ratios, I just couldn't get a smooth finish.

Later I found out that I had a reducer for 70F temps. I painted in the summer in the garage with doors closed. I estimated with 95F temps outside, it had to be around 100F+ in the garage.

And you are??

1200 is WAY too fine for a final sanding before the base goes on. 600 is ideal, 1000 max. Above that and the base coat has little to grip to. At 1200 you're risking the base peeling loose of the primer at some point in the future.

Ok Scotty, we are learning here. Whats the proper grit before-
Primer on metal?
Primer on FG?
Base coat you said 600
Clear coat -shoot directly over base within manuf. time limit, or sand with ?grit?

Thanks!

Maybe a little smooth but I dusted the first light coat and let it dry for grip...looked rough at that point. then did the second coat and it went on smooth again. Still amazed how it came out for my first and only time painting anything bigger than a model.

3 coats and lots of sanding and polishing. 5 years and no peeling...a few chips here and there from my stupidity.

I am not professional and am happy with the results. Total spend was like $110 for paint and gun; compressor I had.

Actually my first attempt was a roller job...DON'T DO THIS unless you like sanding and prepping everything twice.
Click to view attachment

Then there is the unidentifiable issues... I went through this painting Peters car. I ended up faulting crappy paint and we just went with it. I still dont know what happend on that one. I still havent come across that issue again..

Well ... ...


(I haven't been paying attention lately)

As it turns out, the paint was bad after all. The body shop used it on a scrap hood and it turned out really crappy. The painter said he could tell from the way it came out of the gun, that something was bad wrong. They bought more of the same paint, shot it with the same gun and it went on perfectly. The guys from the paint store looked at it, decided it was bad (they said it didn't even smell right)? and gave me more paint. Hopefully they will shoot it again this week. Kind of a bummer that my first attempt at this was hampered by some shitty paint.

sucks when its not your fault

Great you are learning...now you know what "good paint" should smell like....not that it will come in handy in the future.

rich

"No way dude, that paint looked fine when I sold it to you..."

Really, the Dude mixing your paint didn't catch that. Mix some brake fluid in with his car polish.