QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 4 2018, 07:39 PM) 
Man, I just decided to go SVX power in the bus or I’d be all over this. Can’t beat a well documented and assembled corvair motor.
Full Version: Marcus' Corvair conversion
Just get another bus! Your wife will totally approve. Or if you REALLY want to surprise her then my '65 Barracuda is also up for sale.
Man, I just decided to go SVX power in the bus or I’d be all over this. Can’t beat a well documented and assembled corvair motor.
Man, I just decided to go SVX power in the bus or I’d be all over this. Can’t beat a well documented and assembled corvair motor.
As a slight aside, how important is it to do engine to body tin? I realize the water cooled conversions don’t use it but how does it affect an air cooled application? I would also think that it would make for a very dirty situation considering the upward flow of air. I ran across a site for a shop in CO that has Corvair/Porsche conversion experience but they mention on their site that they lost all of their 914 templates during a move.
DaveO, perhaps you have some input.
DaveO, perhaps you have some input.
QUOTE(chrisg @ Sep 9 2018, 12:36 PM)
As a slight aside, how important is it to do engine to body tin? I realize the water cooled conversions don’t use it but how does it affect an air cooled application? I would also think that it would make for a very dirty situation considering the upward flow of air. I ran across a site for a shop in CO that has Corvair/Porsche conversion experience but they mention on their site that they lost all of their 914 templates during a move.
DaveO, perhaps you have some input.
I found it easy on the bus. I made rigid cardboard templates and simply used them to fab up metal ones. Worked so well I never prittied them up and used the mock ups as is.
Yup. DaveO is way ahead on this.
As a slight aside, how important is it to do engine to body tin? I realize the water cooled conversions don’t use it but how does it affect an air cooled application? I would also think that it would make for a very dirty situation considering the upward flow of air. I ran across a site for a shop in CO that has Corvair/Porsche conversion experience but they mention on their site that they lost all of their 914 templates during a move.
DaveO, perhaps you have some input.
QUOTE(chrisg @ Sep 9 2018, 09:36 AM)
As a slight aside, how important is it to do engine to body tin? I realize the water cooled conversions don’t use it but how does it affect an air cooled application? I would also think that it would make for a very dirty situation considering the upward flow of air. I ran across a site for a shop in CO that has Corvair/Porsche conversion experience but they mention on their site that they lost all of their 914 templates during a move.
DaveO, perhaps you have some input.
Hi all, sorry I'd not seen these latest posts about engine tin until a friend told me over coffee yesterday.
I found making the tin ware a real fun challenge and not hard to do at all - requires a lot of thinking and rather less doing.
I'd be more than happy to explain how I did it for anyone who is fitting a Corvair engine to a 914. Probably best to wake me up by email first. DoveringtonATozemailDOTcomDOTau.
Cheers all
DaveO
I found making the tin ware a real fun challenge and not hard to do at all - requires a lot of thinking and rather less doing.
I'd be more than happy to explain how I did it for anyone who is fitting a Corvair engine to a 914. Probably best to wake me up by email first. DoveringtonATozemailDOTcomDOTau.
Cheers all
DaveO
Very cool.
Thinking into the future I think it would be of great benefit to have some plans drawn up and then made available.
If we can get something on paper and into .pdf format I can always host the file so we can link to it from here. Or maybe even a cad file.
Just projecting. Ha. Puns.
Hi all, sorry I'd not seen these latest posts about engine tin until a friend told me over coffee yesterday.
I found making the tin ware a real fun challenge and not hard to do at all - requires a lot of thinking and rather less doing.
I'd be more than happy to explain how I did it for anyone who is fitting a Corvair engine to a 914. Probably best to wake me up by email first. DoveringtonATozemailDOTcomDOTau.
Cheers all
DaveO
Thinking into the future I think it would be of great benefit to have some plans drawn up and then made available.
If we can get something on paper and into .pdf format I can always host the file so we can link to it from here. Or maybe even a cad file.
Just projecting. Ha. Puns.
QUOTE(DaveO90s4 @ Sep 23 2018, 01:05 AM)
Hi all, sorry I'd not seen these latest posts about engine tin until a friend told me over coffee yesterday.
I found making the tin ware a real fun challenge and not hard to do at all - requires a lot of thinking and rather less doing.
I'd be more than happy to explain how I did it for anyone who is fitting a Corvair engine to a 914. Probably best to wake me up by email first. DoveringtonATozemailDOTcomDOTau.
Cheers all
DaveO
Engine tin templates would be great - but not a trivial task. One would have to make all the tinware and fit it and engine, then removeve engine, remove tinware and hammer it flat to make the 'flat' templates.
I have kept most of the paper templates I made, but at best they are close approximations with lots of snipping and fettling required to make the bits fit.
At the crank belt pulley end the tinware will also depend on how the engine has been mounted (I do have as built plans for how I did that and can share if required. As before send me an email to get my attention
Cheers
DaveO
I have kept most of the paper templates I made, but at best they are close approximations with lots of snipping and fettling required to make the bits fit.
At the crank belt pulley end the tinware will also depend on how the engine has been mounted (I do have as built plans for how I did that and can share if required. As before send me an email to get my attention
Cheers
DaveO
QUOTE(DaveO90s4 @ Sep 23 2018, 02:55 PM)
Engine tin templates would be great - but not a trivial task. One would have to make all the tinware and fit it and engine, then removeve engine, remove tinware and hammer it flat to make the 'flat' templates.
I have kept most of the paper templates I made, but at best they are close approximations with lots of snipping and fettling required to make the bits fit.
At the crank belt pulley end the tinware will also depend on how the engine has been mounted (I do have as built plans for how I did that and can share if required. As before send me an email to get my attention
Cheers
DaveO
Thanks Dave, I did have the later thought that it would in the end be install and car specific when not working with any set engine mount/location parameters.
Hey Marcus, since we are on a bit of an intermission waiting for the oil pan, I was wondering what are your thoughts on how the dual 44 Webers are going to work. Is it a progressive linkage like the stock 4 carb (do I have that correct in how the stock carbs work?)? I re-read this thread and don't remember that being discussed other than seeing the gorgeous intakes you had fabbed.
Ugggghhhhhh wwabababb ththhhh this intermission suuuuuucks. So sure, let's talk about carbs.
First, just a quick point of order that I didn't fab those intakes. My welding is functional but nowhere near as nice as that work. Those were put together and sold commercially by Tom Knoblauch of American Flat 6. Check out his site here: http://americanflat6.com He's done quite a lot of the machine work for my engine. Definitely a great resource.
The Corvairs came with a number of carburetor options: one single bore carb on either side for the 90, 110, and turbo engines, four carbs for the 140hp, aftermarket high-mounted single carbs, or the very cool modified custom intakes with triple bore Webers. Just like DaveO90s4 has on his. (drool).
I should also mention that there's a very cool and affordable EFI kits that uses stock Ford 6-cylinder EFI bits and EDIS along with many custom made parts. You can get two or four throttle bodies or a kit made just for us big-bore adventurers:
http://www.corvair-efi.com/gen-2-throttle-...le-thru-clarks/
I might have gone with the Weber triples but they're just so very expensive. So I split the difference and chose double bore Webers or Dellortos - I have both. I know the Webers inside and out so will use those just for ease of tuning and because I know they'll run great.
Once the carbs are mounted on those sweet intakes they sit fairly high and clear of the fan. So all that's needed is a stock throttle cross bar to actuate them. My plan was to do either exactly that, or make a mount and use McMark's bellcrank linkage. I have this linkage for my Type-4 and I absolutely love it. Here's a thread from the group buy:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...riginal+customs
Here's what the stock linkage would look like (photos from Americanflat6.com, at http://americanflat6.com/products/2bbl40idfweberkits.html)
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
So.. options! Lots of cool stuff. Perhaps the only tiny side note is that I'm often asked about the turbo engine instead. My initial fear was that with the 901 gearbox the engine wouldn't rev far enough for long enough to spool up the turbo. It turns out that's the right answer. Others have poked around with the idea and it doesn't work. So for we 914 people the turbo isn't really viable.
... still waiting for this intermission to end ...
Hey Marcus, since we are on a bit of an intermission waiting for the oil pan, I was wondering what are your thoughts on how the dual 44 Webers are going to work. Is it a progressive linkage like the stock 4 carb (do I have that correct in how the stock carbs work?)? I re-read this thread and don't remember that being discussed other than seeing the gorgeous intakes you had fabbed.
First, just a quick point of order that I didn't fab those intakes. My welding is functional but nowhere near as nice as that work. Those were put together and sold commercially by Tom Knoblauch of American Flat 6. Check out his site here: http://americanflat6.com He's done quite a lot of the machine work for my engine. Definitely a great resource.
The Corvairs came with a number of carburetor options: one single bore carb on either side for the 90, 110, and turbo engines, four carbs for the 140hp, aftermarket high-mounted single carbs, or the very cool modified custom intakes with triple bore Webers. Just like DaveO90s4 has on his. (drool).
I should also mention that there's a very cool and affordable EFI kits that uses stock Ford 6-cylinder EFI bits and EDIS along with many custom made parts. You can get two or four throttle bodies or a kit made just for us big-bore adventurers:
http://www.corvair-efi.com/gen-2-throttle-...le-thru-clarks/
I might have gone with the Weber triples but they're just so very expensive. So I split the difference and chose double bore Webers or Dellortos - I have both. I know the Webers inside and out so will use those just for ease of tuning and because I know they'll run great.
Once the carbs are mounted on those sweet intakes they sit fairly high and clear of the fan. So all that's needed is a stock throttle cross bar to actuate them. My plan was to do either exactly that, or make a mount and use McMark's bellcrank linkage. I have this linkage for my Type-4 and I absolutely love it. Here's a thread from the group buy:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...riginal+customs
Here's what the stock linkage would look like (photos from Americanflat6.com, at http://americanflat6.com/products/2bbl40idfweberkits.html)
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
So.. options! Lots of cool stuff. Perhaps the only tiny side note is that I'm often asked about the turbo engine instead. My initial fear was that with the 901 gearbox the engine wouldn't rev far enough for long enough to spool up the turbo. It turns out that's the right answer. Others have poked around with the idea and it doesn't work. So for we 914 people the turbo isn't really viable.
... still waiting for this intermission to end ...
QUOTE(chrisg @ Sep 23 2018, 07:45 PM)
Hey Marcus, since we are on a bit of an intermission waiting for the oil pan, I was wondering what are your thoughts on how the dual 44 Webers are going to work. Is it a progressive linkage like the stock 4 carb (do I have that correct in how the stock carbs work?)? I re-read this thread and don't remember that being discussed other than seeing the gorgeous intakes you had fabbed.
At El Mirage, we ran the 4bbl Holley, 140 heads, with some success. Got to within 4 MPH of the record. If you were to run it on the street, then oil heating the intake would be necessary. That was about 1970.
Andys
Andys
Very cool! I always like the idea of a single four barrel carb. But as you say intake temps are a real problem - the same reason why it doesn't work with a Type-4 or Type-1 engine. Beetles had the heat risers to solve that problem.
Plus it just looks cool.
At El Mirage, we ran the 4bbl Holley, 140 heads, with some success. Got to within 4 MPH of the record. If you were to run it on the street, then oil heating the intake would be necessary. That was about 1970.
Andys
Plus it just looks cool.
QUOTE(andys @ Sep 24 2018, 12:02 PM)
At El Mirage, we ran the 4bbl Holley, 140 heads, with some success. Got to within 4 MPH of the record. If you were to run it on the street, then oil heating the intake would be necessary. That was about 1970.
Andys
Must be some way to add a heat riser a la early vw?
Speaking if carbs: for a Corvair /. 914 installation I think it highly desirable that the carbs do not extend outboard beyond the rocker covets. The rocker covers clear the chassis when installing the engine by about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch each side. If the carbs extend beyond that then the engine can't be installed or removed with carbs on. It is very difficult to install my carbs with the engine in. And the 12 nuts in total are hard to get at with the engine in. One nut took me two hrs to get on.
Just a thought...
Daveo90s4
Speaking if carbs: for a Corvair /. 914 installation I think it highly desirable that the carbs do not extend outboard beyond the rocker covets. The rocker covers clear the chassis when installing the engine by about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch each side. If the carbs extend beyond that then the engine can't be installed or removed with carbs on. It is very difficult to install my carbs with the engine in. And the 12 nuts in total are hard to get at with the engine in. One nut took me two hrs to get on.
Just a thought...
Daveo90s4
QUOTE(r3dplanet @ Sep 24 2018, 12:29 PM)
Very cool! I always like the idea of a single four barrel carb. But as you say intake temps are a real problem - the same reason why it doesn't work with a Type-4 or Type-1 engine. Beetles had the heat risers to solve that problem.
Plus it just looks cool.
QUOTE(andys @ Sep 24 2018, 12:02 PM)
At El Mirage, we ran the 4bbl Holley, 140 heads, with some success. Got to within 4 MPH of the record. If you were to run it on the street, then oil heating the intake would be necessary. That was about 1970.
Andys
After second thought, a type 1 heat riser would be a very simple solution; not at all hard to implement. The advantage is simplified tuning of a single carb. FWIW.
Andys
Hey gang.
I don't think the oil pan is coming back any time soon. So I finally broke down and bought a third oil pan. This time it's the Clark's brand. Like the Otto it's also made from cast alumin(i)um. Thankfully this is one is dead nuts flat so it doesn't need any modifications. So I suggest that if you ever build your own Corvair engine just cough up the $300 for the Clark's plan. Maybe one day my other Otto oil pan will return. If it does I'll pass it on to another adventurer.
The boasting points for the Clark's pan are:
* tall internal baffles to reduce slop and increase thermal absorption (that's a fun word)
* actual flat mating surface
* two rear-facing pipe threaded holes -> one for the drain bolt to get really good drainage, and another for an oil temp sensor. That's a nice touch.
The main caveat is that the finish isn't nearly as good as the Otto, but I don't care any more. The cost smarts though.
In the next few days I'll have a friend come over and help me flip the engine so I can install the pan. Once installed, it's a straight path to completion. Finally.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I don't think the oil pan is coming back any time soon. So I finally broke down and bought a third oil pan. This time it's the Clark's brand. Like the Otto it's also made from cast alumin(i)um. Thankfully this is one is dead nuts flat so it doesn't need any modifications. So I suggest that if you ever build your own Corvair engine just cough up the $300 for the Clark's plan. Maybe one day my other Otto oil pan will return. If it does I'll pass it on to another adventurer.
The boasting points for the Clark's pan are:
* tall internal baffles to reduce slop and increase thermal absorption (that's a fun word)
* actual flat mating surface
* two rear-facing pipe threaded holes -> one for the drain bolt to get really good drainage, and another for an oil temp sensor. That's a nice touch.
The main caveat is that the finish isn't nearly as good as the Otto, but I don't care any more. The cost smarts though.
In the next few days I'll have a friend come over and help me flip the engine so I can install the pan. Once installed, it's a straight path to completion. Finally.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Nice, Marcus. 
Glad you're getting near the finish line with your engine.
One day while driving up to my sister's in Shelburne Falls, I took a different road and drove right past Clark's. Kinda wished I had stopped in, but at the time never thought about a Corvair engine as a potential power plant. Now, I do.
And yes, slop is a fun word...
Glad you're getting near the finish line with your engine. One day while driving up to my sister's in Shelburne Falls, I took a different road and drove right past Clark's. Kinda wished I had stopped in, but at the time never thought about a Corvair engine as a potential power plant. Now, I do.
And yes, slop is a fun word...
I was actually thinking about "absorption" ..abZORBb... But "slop" has great onomatopoeia.
Anyway, yes. I'm eager to finish off this engine and start it up. The sooner the better.
-m.
Nice, Marcus. Glad you're getting near the finish line with your engine.
One day while driving up to my sister's in Shelburne Falls, I took a different road and drove right past Clark's. Kinda wished I had stopped in, but at the time never thought about a Corvair engine as a potential power plant. Now, I do.
And yes, slop is a fun word...
Anyway, yes. I'm eager to finish off this engine and start it up. The sooner the better.
-m.
QUOTE(Porschef @ Oct 29 2018, 05:56 PM)
Nice, Marcus.
Glad you're getting near the finish line with your engine. One day while driving up to my sister's in Shelburne Falls, I took a different road and drove right past Clark's. Kinda wished I had stopped in, but at the time never thought about a Corvair engine as a potential power plant. Now, I do.
And yes, slop is a fun word...
Hi Marcus. Good progress.
One of the selling points on my Otto (?) oil pan is that the external fins are angled to disperse heat away from the centre. Great. And then I put the engine in backwards into my 914 and defeat that. I hope it was just marketing hype. No such issue with you new pan. And my drain hole is not at the bottom. Must send you photos of my auxiliary oil coolers. Cheers. Dave
One of the selling points on my Otto (?) oil pan is that the external fins are angled to disperse heat away from the centre. Great. And then I put the engine in backwards into my 914 and defeat that. I hope it was just marketing hype. No such issue with you new pan. And my drain hole is not at the bottom. Must send you photos of my auxiliary oil coolers. Cheers. Dave
QUOTE(r3dplanet @ Oct 29 2018, 09:22 PM)
But "slop" has great onomatopoeia.
Subscribing, I mean besides this being a cool build you used onomatopoeia on a car forum so I kind of have to subscribe.
I run an Edelbrock 4bbl currently on the 3.1 with a plenum with 6 runners. I had a set up for 140 heads, 4 runners, and oil heat using a Holley. Hated that Holley. My carbs are still not perfectly tuned, idle is all crap, but once it is going it is going. If I was keeping the vair power plant I was planning on weber 3bbl, but the plans have changed and i have jumped ship to join the Suby SVX camp for 240hp, heat, A/C, fuel injection. I still have a CIS setup that I modified to work on my vair (with the 3 port heads). Its in a box, maybe mess with it some day, needed tuning and leak checks. Im not even sure if I will keep the vair engine and tranz at this point.
I used the Otto oil pain and a deep pain on the power glide as well. I also ducted my exhaust forward to exit ahead of the buses rear wheels to help relieve some of the heat soak under and around the engine. The 914 naturally does this so the heat dissipation may be superior to stock corvair mounting and exhaust. I dont think you are gonna have heat issues, though. You have done so much to improve this over stock.
I used the Otto oil pain and a deep pain on the power glide as well. I also ducted my exhaust forward to exit ahead of the buses rear wheels to help relieve some of the heat soak under and around the engine. The 914 naturally does this so the heat dissipation may be superior to stock corvair mounting and exhaust. I dont think you are gonna have heat issues, though. You have done so much to improve this over stock.
sucks about the oil pan the OG Otto stuff was nice..
Dave, I agree. For reasons that aren't clear to me I still prefer the Otto. Maybe because it matches the valve covers, or maybe because of the fit and finish. It's a clever design for sure. Who knows... if oil pan #2 ever returns I might install it. Answer is unclear at this time.
Hi Marcus. Good progress.
One of the selling points on my Otto (?) oil pan is that the external fins are angled to disperse heat away from the centre. Great. And then I put the engine in backwards into my 914 and defeat that. I hope it was just marketing hype. No such issue with you new pan. And my drain hole is not at the bottom. Must send you photos of my auxiliary oil coolers. Cheers. Dave
QUOTE(DaveO90s4 @ Oct 30 2018, 04:35 AM)
Hi Marcus. Good progress.
One of the selling points on my Otto (?) oil pan is that the external fins are angled to disperse heat away from the centre. Great. And then I put the engine in backwards into my 914 and defeat that. I hope it was just marketing hype. No such issue with you new pan. And my drain hole is not at the bottom. Must send you photos of my auxiliary oil coolers. Cheers. Dave
Hello, fellow wordsperson. If you're into fun words I urge you to have fun with my favorite word in the English language, "sesquipedalian." It's as giggleworthy as it is autological.
But "slop" has great onomatopoeia.
Subscribing, I mean besides this being a cool build you used onomatopoeia on a car forum so I kind of have to subscribe.
QUOTE(Tdskip @ Oct 30 2018, 04:54 AM)
QUOTE(r3dplanet @ Oct 29 2018, 09:22 PM)
But "slop" has great onomatopoeia.
Subscribing, I mean besides this being a cool build you used onomatopoeia on a car forum so I kind of have to subscribe.
Which Edlebrock do you have? The 500? That still seems huge for 3.1 liters. I've had several of the Eddy 4-barrels and I generally really love them. In fact I think I have an extra 500 kicking around.
I'm still totes jelly of your Bus. Subaru power is obviously going to be better given than you're swapping '50s engine tech with '90s engine tech. I would have loved to see your Corvair engine come to fruition which is why you need to go get another Bus! Having two simultaneous car projects is always a great idea. ALWAYS
Speaking of .. my Barracuda is finally really to sell. I'll start crafting my ad for it.
I run an Edelbrock 4bbl currently on the 3.1 with a plenum with 6 runners. I had a set up for 140 heads, 4 runners, and oil heat using a Holley. Hated that Holley. My carbs are still not perfectly tuned, idle is all crap, but once it is going it is going. If I was keeping the vair power plant I was planning on weber 3bbl, but the plans have changed and i have jumped ship to join the Suby SVX camp for 240hp, heat, A/C, fuel injection. I still have a CIS setup that I modified to work on my vair (with the 3 port heads). Its in a box, maybe mess with it some day, needed tuning and leak checks. Im not even sure if I will keep the vair engine and tranz at this point.
I used the Otto oil pain and a deep pain on the power glide as well. I also ducted my exhaust forward to exit ahead of the buses rear wheels to help relieve some of the heat soak under and around the engine. The 914 naturally does this so the heat dissipation may be superior to stock corvair mounting and exhaust. I dont think you are gonna have heat issues, though. You have done so much to improve this over stock.
I'm still totes jelly of your Bus. Subaru power is obviously going to be better given than you're swapping '50s engine tech with '90s engine tech. I would have loved to see your Corvair engine come to fruition which is why you need to go get another Bus! Having two simultaneous car projects is always a great idea. ALWAYS
Speaking of .. my Barracuda is finally really to sell. I'll start crafting my ad for it.
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Oct 30 2018, 08:10 AM)
I run an Edelbrock 4bbl currently on the 3.1 with a plenum with 6 runners. I had a set up for 140 heads, 4 runners, and oil heat using a Holley. Hated that Holley. My carbs are still not perfectly tuned, idle is all crap, but once it is going it is going. If I was keeping the vair power plant I was planning on weber 3bbl, but the plans have changed and i have jumped ship to join the Suby SVX camp for 240hp, heat, A/C, fuel injection. I still have a CIS setup that I modified to work on my vair (with the 3 port heads). Its in a box, maybe mess with it some day, needed tuning and leak checks. Im not even sure if I will keep the vair engine and tranz at this point.
I used the Otto oil pain and a deep pain on the power glide as well. I also ducted my exhaust forward to exit ahead of the buses rear wheels to help relieve some of the heat soak under and around the engine. The 914 naturally does this so the heat dissipation may be superior to stock corvair mounting and exhaust. I dont think you are gonna have heat issues, though. You have done so much to improve this over stock.
QUOTE(Porschef @ Oct 29 2018, 08:56 PM)
One day while driving up to my sister's in Shelburne Falls, I took a different road and drove right past Clark's. Kinda wished I had stopped in, but at the time never thought about a Corvair engine as a potential power plant. Now, I do.
And yes, slop is a fun word...
Years ago I used to drive to Calvin Clark’s house to buy parts.
Once they moved to their current location, they frowned on walk
ins because the site wasn’t zoned for retail....
Mail Order only...
Very cool! It's a far cry from the never ending pile of SUMMIT RACING stickers.
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Oct 30 2018, 01:13 PM)
QUOTE(r3dplanet @ Oct 30 2018, 01:57 PM)
Which Edlebrock do you have? The 500? That still seems huge for 3.1 liters. I've had several of the Eddy 4-barrels and I generally really love them. In fact I think I have an extra 500 kicking around.
I'm still totes jelly of your Bus. Subaru power is obviously going to be better given than you're swapping '50s engine tech with '90s engine tech. I would have loved to see your Corvair engine come to fruition which is why you need to go get another Bus! Having two simultaneous car projects is always a great idea. ALWAYS
Speaking of .. my Barracuda is finally really to sell. I'll start crafting my ad for it.
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Oct 30 2018, 08:10 AM)
I run an Edelbrock 4bbl currently on the 3.1 with a plenum with 6 runners. I had a set up for 140 heads, 4 runners, and oil heat using a Holley. Hated that Holley. My carbs are still not perfectly tuned, idle is all crap, but once it is going it is going. If I was keeping the vair power plant I was planning on weber 3bbl, but the plans have changed and i have jumped ship to join the Suby SVX camp for 240hp, heat, A/C, fuel injection. I still have a CIS setup that I modified to work on my vair (with the 3 port heads). Its in a box, maybe mess with it some day, needed tuning and leak checks. Im not even sure if I will keep the vair engine and tranz at this point.
I used the Otto oil pain and a deep pain on the power glide as well. I also ducted my exhaust forward to exit ahead of the buses rear wheels to help relieve some of the heat soak under and around the engine. The 914 naturally does this so the heat dissipation may be superior to stock corvair mounting and exhaust. I dont think you are gonna have heat issues, though. You have done so much to improve this over stock.
If Eddy has a 360, that is the one I have. If not, then its slightly bigger. Im going off of memory. It was nice to install, quick adjust, go. Jetting changes dont take a whole lot of work like the Holley. I may get another bus someday....but I have lost real estate and have no space in my new suburban palace.
Hmm. Shoot a pic of it? The smallest Eddy is 500cfm. Now I'm curious.
-m.
Which Edlebrock do you have? The 500? That still seems huge for 3.1 liters. I've had several of the Eddy 4-barrels and I generally really love them. In fact I think I have an extra 500 kicking around.
If Eddy has a 360, that is the one I have. If not, then its slightly bigger. Im going off of memory. It was nice to install, quick adjust, go. Jetting changes dont take a whole lot of work like the Holley. I may get another bus someday....but I have lost real estate and have no space in my new suburban palace.
-m.
QUOTE
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Nov 1 2018, 01:18 PM)
QUOTE(r3dplanet @ Oct 30 2018, 01:57 PM)
Which Edlebrock do you have? The 500? That still seems huge for 3.1 liters. I've had several of the Eddy 4-barrels and I generally really love them. In fact I think I have an extra 500 kicking around.
If Eddy has a 360, that is the one I have. If not, then its slightly bigger. Im going off of memory. It was nice to install, quick adjust, go. Jetting changes dont take a whole lot of work like the Holley. I may get another bus someday....but I have lost real estate and have no space in my new suburban palace.
Okay. Finally the simple task of installing the oil pan is finished. My friend Ben dropped by and we tilted the engine onto another work table. The table is unhappy about the load.
Any oil pan for the Corvair is not ideal In order to gain ground clearance, the pan is really more of a lid. Most of the oil sits above the gasket line so it can leak just sitting there. That is, it could leak out most the oil in total if given the chance. That's why I'm extra particular about the mating surfaces and sealing. I'm trying to avoid a hypothetical situation where it leaks a parking lot, then someone will point and laugh at me because of the Corvair engine. Then I'd pee my pants to complete the spectacle.
Click to view attachment
Dry fitting the pan showed another problem. One of the baffles inside the pan butted against one the casting ribs on the bottom of the engine case. It could be a universal application fit, I'm not sure. Anyway a little quick work with the grinder and a file and I removed a little square. It only wanted a 1/4" removed, but the grinder fit easier this way.
Click to view attachment
And here's the Otto oil pickup. It's a decent improvement over stock and it fits this oil pan perfectly. I've mentioned it before but here it is again anyway.
Click to view attachment
Installed:
Click to view attachment
Now it's finally time to clean the surfaces and install the pan. As per usual I cleaned both mating surfaces with white coffee filters. First with mineral spirits, and then with alcohol. The gasket I'm using is a thin felt-rubber gasket. I'm not sure if this is the best choice but if it doesn't work I have other, thicker gaskets.
Click to view attachment
I doubt I really needed to use any gasket dressing given that the surfaces are flat, but they're not perfectly flat. So I used a bit of Gasgacinch, let it dry, and slapped it onto the pan. Then it's right back onto the engine.
Click to view attachment
After letting it sit overnight I realized that I forgot to apply anti-seize. So I popped each off one at a time and torqued them to 70 INCH pounds in a criss-cross pattern. The manual says 100 inch pounds, but that's a mistake. The actual value is 60-84.
Anyway, done. Next up are the lifters, pushrods, rockers.
Blam!
Any oil pan for the Corvair is not ideal In order to gain ground clearance, the pan is really more of a lid. Most of the oil sits above the gasket line so it can leak just sitting there. That is, it could leak out most the oil in total if given the chance. That's why I'm extra particular about the mating surfaces and sealing. I'm trying to avoid a hypothetical situation where it leaks a parking lot, then someone will point and laugh at me because of the Corvair engine. Then I'd pee my pants to complete the spectacle.
Click to view attachment
Dry fitting the pan showed another problem. One of the baffles inside the pan butted against one the casting ribs on the bottom of the engine case. It could be a universal application fit, I'm not sure. Anyway a little quick work with the grinder and a file and I removed a little square. It only wanted a 1/4" removed, but the grinder fit easier this way.
Click to view attachment
And here's the Otto oil pickup. It's a decent improvement over stock and it fits this oil pan perfectly. I've mentioned it before but here it is again anyway.
Click to view attachment
Installed:
Click to view attachment
Now it's finally time to clean the surfaces and install the pan. As per usual I cleaned both mating surfaces with white coffee filters. First with mineral spirits, and then with alcohol. The gasket I'm using is a thin felt-rubber gasket. I'm not sure if this is the best choice but if it doesn't work I have other, thicker gaskets.
Click to view attachment
I doubt I really needed to use any gasket dressing given that the surfaces are flat, but they're not perfectly flat. So I used a bit of Gasgacinch, let it dry, and slapped it onto the pan. Then it's right back onto the engine.
Click to view attachment
After letting it sit overnight I realized that I forgot to apply anti-seize. So I popped each off one at a time and torqued them to 70 INCH pounds in a criss-cross pattern. The manual says 100 inch pounds, but that's a mistake. The actual value is 60-84.
Anyway, done. Next up are the lifters, pushrods, rockers.
Blam!
Marcus, hows it going ?
some Corvair humor.. 42 yrs ago
me 16yrs old ..first set of radial tires ..used of course, and my Dad
some Corvair humor.. 42 yrs ago
me 16yrs old ..first set of radial tires ..used of course, and my Dad
Friend of ours restoring this one, features a smallblock Chev with a period correct Crown conversion kit. I dig the velocity stacks in the back seat 
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Malt and Six:
Sweet rides! Those are both very pretty cars. I'm reasonably jealous.
Six- I prefer the earlier Corvairs to the later ones in terms of looks. Just really like the lines and classiness of the body. But Malt, those velocity stacks are sexy. And I like that the engine is right where it is supposed to be - amidships.
I'm in and out these days. But I've been piddling about on a stupid oblique side project that will help finish the engine assembly. Mostly playing with putty. More on that in a day or two.
-m.
Sweet rides! Those are both very pretty cars. I'm reasonably jealous.
Six- I prefer the earlier Corvairs to the later ones in terms of looks. Just really like the lines and classiness of the body. But Malt, those velocity stacks are sexy. And I like that the engine is right where it is supposed to be - amidships.
I'm in and out these days. But I've been piddling about on a stupid oblique side project that will help finish the engine assembly. Mostly playing with putty. More on that in a day or two.
-m.
...also built this set of racing headers for the same guy, but another one of his Corvairs; this one has a hot rod 6cyl. !Click to view attachment
angled exhaust ports ?...otto
I had early turbos ,dad had later..
i liked the early body
i liked the early body
David brought up a point at exactly the right moment. The heat shields that lay underneath the cylinders are not exactly the same. There's an oval hole in one of them that here-to-fore I thought was to make way for the dipstick tube. Although I never did give it much thought at all. Then I went to install it and found that the hole is on the oppose side of the dipstick tube. Whaaaa?
Click to view attachment
The dipstick doesn't need a hole in the shield. That hole is only for '60-'62 cars that used a crankcase pressure relief tube to dump crankcase gasses underneath the car and out into the atmosphere. Nice. Starting in '63 GM started using a PCV valve instead. Long ago one could buy a plug for the hole but I'm not sure from which material it was made. I am sure that the plug is right next to the exhaust so if it were made of rubber it wouldn't last.
At first I was inclined to make a high-temp JB-Weld sandwich with a little bit of steel sheet. But then I decided to do a little experiment. Or rather, three at once. I wanted to see if I could weld a patch on the very thin shield sheet metal (I can't) and if such a patch could be powder coated on an otherwise already coated part. Long ago I coated the heat shields in high temp silver exhaust powder. I've never re-coated a piece, so why not? I also want to try out using Alvin's Hi-Temp Lab Metal. It's a high metal content putty that's supposed to withstand high temperature and is able to be powder coated.
Here's a little montage of the process. I cut a little oval patch and tried and failed to weld it in, but just burned right though the shield. I should have known but did it anyway. Then I had to cut another little patch and then puttied it all into place with the Lab Metal. After sitting for 24 hours the instructions say to bake it at 425F, which is exactly the powder coating temperature. I powder coated it with the same powder and baked it.
Click to view attachment
It looks terrible and I blame myself for the shoddy work. But the experiment was a a reasonable success. While being the opposite of pretty, the patch is strong and good to at least 450F (Alvin says a 1000F). The powder doesn't look great but it did the job. My plan, in its entirety, is to install and let someone else check the results at the next disassembly.
Click to view attachment
Here's the final product. It's PERFECT.
/snark
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
The dipstick doesn't need a hole in the shield. That hole is only for '60-'62 cars that used a crankcase pressure relief tube to dump crankcase gasses underneath the car and out into the atmosphere. Nice. Starting in '63 GM started using a PCV valve instead. Long ago one could buy a plug for the hole but I'm not sure from which material it was made. I am sure that the plug is right next to the exhaust so if it were made of rubber it wouldn't last.
At first I was inclined to make a high-temp JB-Weld sandwich with a little bit of steel sheet. But then I decided to do a little experiment. Or rather, three at once. I wanted to see if I could weld a patch on the very thin shield sheet metal (I can't) and if such a patch could be powder coated on an otherwise already coated part. Long ago I coated the heat shields in high temp silver exhaust powder. I've never re-coated a piece, so why not? I also want to try out using Alvin's Hi-Temp Lab Metal. It's a high metal content putty that's supposed to withstand high temperature and is able to be powder coated.
Here's a little montage of the process. I cut a little oval patch and tried and failed to weld it in, but just burned right though the shield. I should have known but did it anyway. Then I had to cut another little patch and then puttied it all into place with the Lab Metal. After sitting for 24 hours the instructions say to bake it at 425F, which is exactly the powder coating temperature. I powder coated it with the same powder and baked it.
Click to view attachment
It looks terrible and I blame myself for the shoddy work. But the experiment was a a reasonable success. While being the opposite of pretty, the patch is strong and good to at least 450F (Alvin says a 1000F). The powder doesn't look great but it did the job. My plan, in its entirety, is to install and let someone else check the results at the next disassembly.
Click to view attachment
Here's the final product. It's PERFECT.
/snark
Click to view attachment
Right. Let's install the pushrod tubes.
A while back I made a little jig to prep the tubes. I coated the exterior in the same high temp silver powder as the heat shields and then painted them with a few coats of high temp ceramic paint in white. The ends are polished with my rotary tool to prevent damage to the seals.
Click to view attachment
The tubes get a Viton seal on each end of the tube, but the engine case side of the tube goes in through the head naked. Once through the head the seal is popped on and coated in engine oil. Then the tube can be shoved all the way in to the bore. I used a nylon hammer and a 16mm socket to drive them in all the way, as per the service manual instructions.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Note the orientation of the tube. The manual calls the case side the "long side of the tube." Odd way to describe one end of a tube, but okay. You can see in this photo that the ends are different. The larger end goes into the head.
Click to view attachment
Here are all twelve installed:
Click to view attachment
A while back I made a little jig to prep the tubes. I coated the exterior in the same high temp silver powder as the heat shields and then painted them with a few coats of high temp ceramic paint in white. The ends are polished with my rotary tool to prevent damage to the seals.
Click to view attachment
The tubes get a Viton seal on each end of the tube, but the engine case side of the tube goes in through the head naked. Once through the head the seal is popped on and coated in engine oil. Then the tube can be shoved all the way in to the bore. I used a nylon hammer and a 16mm socket to drive them in all the way, as per the service manual instructions.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Note the orientation of the tube. The manual calls the case side the "long side of the tube." Odd way to describe one end of a tube, but okay. You can see in this photo that the ends are different. The larger end goes into the head.
Click to view attachment
Here are all twelve installed:
Click to view attachment
Hi Marcus,
What’s up?
Cheers
DaveO
What’s up?
Cheers
DaveO
Hey gang. I'm not well. Struggling through my days and anxious to sell off my cars and junk. I need to get the 914 put back together so I can sell it off, hopefully this Spring. After it's gone I'll have space to transfer the Corvair engine (somehow) from my spare bedroom down two flights of stairs to the garage and attempt to start it up. Once I'm convinced that the engine is worthy it will go to a new owner - perhaps somewhere in the warm land of Australia.
I guess the only news I have is that the engine is complete except for a couple of ancillaries and lower sheet metal. I finished up with the rocker assemblies and static valve adjustment. I'm worried that it takes a bit of force to spin the crank, but we'll see what happens. Photos were taken and I can make a new post showing all that. Just need to get the energy to get of my ass.
Sincere apologies for the delay. Getting an energy burst is very rare. I'm envious of people with energy.
Anyone want a 914? Or a Barracuda?
-m.
I guess the only news I have is that the engine is complete except for a couple of ancillaries and lower sheet metal. I finished up with the rocker assemblies and static valve adjustment. I'm worried that it takes a bit of force to spin the crank, but we'll see what happens. Photos were taken and I can make a new post showing all that. Just need to get the energy to get of my ass.
Sincere apologies for the delay. Getting an energy burst is very rare. I'm envious of people with energy.
Anyone want a 914? Or a Barracuda?
-m.
So sorry to hear you are not feeling well. I went through quite an ordeal last year, so I can relate to the thirst for energy! Hang in there.
It is quite a trek to Oregon, but I would like to hear more about your Cuda. Message me and I will give you my email. Looking for another project...in addition to my 914!
Jason
It is quite a trek to Oregon, but I would like to hear more about your Cuda. Message me and I will give you my email. Looking for another project...in addition to my 914!
Jason
Hoping to hear you health issues are just a temporary setback, Marcus.
This guy might have a corvair engine for sale. All Porsche 993 awd running gear and interior in this Corvair
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Jan 15 2019, 02:35 PM)
This guy might have a corvair engine for sale. All Porsche 993 awd running gear and interior in this Corvair
That's pretty sweet. I would like to have witnessed that project. I'm a huge fan of the unholy.
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ Jan 15 2019, 02:35 PM)
This guy might have a corvair engine for sale. All Porsche 993 awd running gear and interior in this Corvair ...
Click to view attachment
That Corvair is schweet, but I'd like to know what that project is on the rack? Click to view attachment
Sorry to read about your health issues. I will miss checking into this thread if you end up having to sell off the project. Take care of number one first. I too have a history with the Corvair. I have owned Early and Late coupes and verts. Here is one of mine.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.