Sunday afternoon's autocross ended with what I thought was a broken accelerator cable, but it turned out to be the bushings in the pedal cluster. I guess the loss of the bushing caused a misalignment of the pedal and linkage, so when I went to step on it - it bent this connecting rod. I am looking to find some instructions for a DIY overhaul of the pedal cluster.

This is the gas pedal with the connecting rod.

See Bruce Stone. bdstone.

You won't need any instructions. It's obvious once you have it on the table. DIY; it's quick, easy and fun.

The Pelican Parts article is excellent.

Pedal Cluster Rebuild

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=32578

Right here under thy nose...

The weak point in your nice writeup is the part about the removal of the clutch pedal from the shaft. Over the 40 years I've been doing this job, only a few have actually pressed right off. Hammers, heat, air tools, drifts, and high end penetrants are commonly needed, and that's AFTER you've spent a lot of time getting the roll pin out. Using a drift or punch as shown ion the picture can, and frequently does, mushroom the shaft, making removal even harder. I recommend heat right from the get-go.

BTW, I'd replace the gas pedal while I was in there, because a floppy pedal is most often the reason the rod fails.

The Cap'n

.....Ya, it's pretty much straight forward
(& there are kit's!)

Removing the roll pin is the easy part. Getting the clutch arm off ... well, that's whole 'nother story

My "never fail" trick was a pointed bit in an air hammer. Worked every single time to get it started. Then a suitable drift finishes it off but... Mark is correct; Getting the clutch arm off ... well, that's whole 'nother story

Thanks for all the info I have been playing with a pedal cluster that I removed from one of my rollers; I got the roll pin out fairly easy, but the clutch pedal seems to be frozen in place. It will have to let it soak in penetrating oil for a week maybe longer, and then try it again.

....and as the good Cap'n said, START with heat. If you screw it up because you didn't throw everything at it that you could, you'll be sorry later. BTDT

Make sure to work in a well ventilated area if you apply a torch after any solvent has been used (especially brake cleaner) ... inhaling the vaporized fumes can kill you

That's also why I NEVER buy chlorinated brake cleaner. I read a bad story about a guy who welded something that had been soaked in the chlorinated kind. Really screwed him up.

I have been using an electric-heat-gun, so far I have managed to melt the nylon bushings from both ends of the shaft. the smoke from the penetrating oil and bushings was quite nasty; I had the garage door in the full up position, window open,, and a fan blasting the work area. still have not moved the clutch pedal.

Here's the easiest way to do it:

Step 1.) Put in box
Step 2.) Send to fellow forum member bdstone914

I was thinking maybe a puller of some type might get the pedal off; there is plenty of room for a couple of claws to grab the clutch pedal's lower edge. Hmmm...

I said "heat", not "high performance hair dryer". A propane torch is the minimum leveh heat source, a MAPP torch would be better. IME, soaking doesn't make it any easier.

The Cap'n

HEAT as in red hot! It'll come right off.

Big Thanks to the Cap,n and reharvey for being so good at explaining what was needed extreme heat as in red hot did the trick. Looks like the rest should go smoothly. Thanks to those who sent in the links to instructions.

I need to disassemble and restore a spare pedal cluster as well. I will be performing some domestic plumbing alterations in our front flower bed this week, so since I'll have the MAP Gas torch in hand ...