I have replaced 2 plastic switches for the ignition. It seems like these are so flimsy that the seem to flex an fail quickly. Getting tired of changing these. Am I missing something here on the install? Seems straight forward there is only one screw. Or do I need to find a higher quality switch? If so where can I buy it?

are you overloading the switch electrically?

No electrical problems. The switch flexes in the mount and eventually separates enough that the contact to the started just wont connect. Squeeze it back together starts like a champ for 3 or 4 times then fails.

Try GPR
You're not the first to experience a crappy replacement switch.

the replacement turn signal switches suck too. im only getting nos electrical stuff from now on. the off shore parts are crap.

Looked on the web site but I was not sure that it was not the same one. I will call them. It seems that Beck-Arnley makes a decent one.

If you're looking for 111905865L, we have some that are made by dansk. I assume they would be decent quality-wise.

Thanks. I looked on the site and did not notice it was Dansk.

I think the problem with the after market switches is that the plastic used is too thin. This allows the plastic casing to flex because the spring tension when moving the switch to start us too high for the casing to resist. If you hold an after market switch up to the light and can clearly see the contacts you would suspect the casing is too thin. If there is also considerable resistance to overcome when moving to the start position then the switch will be prone to failure. Hold the switch by its self and operate it with a screw driver and observe the changes in the gaps where the switch snaps together.

My stock switch, no change in the gaps at all. Aftermarket, very noticeable movement and separation of the parts. Interim solution was to JB weld both sides of the switch. Flex is gone and it seems to work.

missed this thread. check the fi one.

k

made in germany.

It looks like the Dansk type has larger gaps to begin with.

pretty subtle difs in the dansk and the repop but they're there. interesting...

Just from my observation the key to evaluating the switch is if they change when subjected to the torque load imparted by the internal spring. If the gaps in the Dansk don't change like the cheap when torqued, then it is a better switch.

Neither of the gaps as shown are big enough to cause the contact to not connect. How they change is the determining factor. It took me a long time to see this flaw.

That should solve it!

what's the plan?

k

At this point "Made In Germany" is where I am going!

okeydokey. pm sent. i'll go box stuff up and run to the usps when i receive a "go".

k

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=110441&hl=

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-PORSCHE-VW-IG...L-/360464123837

They're still available through Porsche, made in Germany and one has been trouble free in my car for over two years

Just don't use the start function. Wire a momentary push button in for the starter circuit.

This is what I want to do...is it an easy wiring job?

I posted this item in the Parts Vault:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=109146

Paul

Bad Ron, bad. Just wait til the Cap'n reads that
In my experience it's not so much the "torque load", but looseness of the fit in the steering column.
The cheap switches do not fit snugly enough creating problems.

I wired a momentary start button in the engine bay, just in case the damn switch took a crap again. A back up

Three switches in the VW Eurovan...same part BTW.

push button switch now....works fine.

Simple to wire on a 914.

Look for the YELLOW wire that goes to the starter from the ignition switch.

That would go on one side of the push button switch.

Run a new 14 gauge red power lead from the battery, up to the dash.
( you could hack this with a splice into what is already there...but I would never suggest that )

Power on one side, yellow wire on the other.
I always use a 30 amp push button switch...cause I have melted smaller ones....on old starters...and old cars...

Turn key to run, press push button to start.

rich

Rich I have the push button wired in as a back up. I have some parts coming and I willhopefullynget back to the orginal configuration when they get here.

No hacking on my version as I ran new wire to the starter that can be removed. 30 amp switch for sure!

Someone else asked how to wire it in the thread...just answering that.

My Eurovan is a 93, so all the antitheft precautions are taken...
Which makes getting to this switch a very long project.

After three in a row, and the Capn agreeing that this part just sucked and he runs into this frequently...

I just went to a push button and never looked back..

Every once in a while I think the car is dead, but then I remember "this car has a push button"

Funny, both my new cars have push buttons now...

rich

[quote name='r_towle' date='Sep 12 2013, 03:44 PM' post='1925219']
Three switches in the VW Eurovan...same part BTW.

....BTW...924 Porsche....same damn ignition switch & part(plastic switch)

Most vw cars of that era use the same ignition switch.
Almost all of them.